Well, my little drip turned in to aunt flow after installing the header. I'm sure I must have moved a tube or two by my careful installation .

looks pretty easy to change these. Any gotchas ? And what sealant if any is the preferred.

Viton Seals are the prefered, I have an extra set of the factory ones that came in the engine seal kit if you need them $10 shipped.. pm me if your interested..


021-109-345A-M213 Inner Push Rod Tube Seal (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), Each [More Info]
Brand: D P H
Push Rod Tube Seals
[view in catalog] $0.50

021-109-349B-M213 Outer Push Rod Tube Seal (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), Each [More Info]
Brand: D P H
Push Rod Tube Seals
[view in catalog] $1.25

PEL-021-109-345-AV Viton, Inner, Push Rod Tube Seal (21.3mm) (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 1976 (E912), Each [More Info]
Push Rod Tube Seals
[view in catalog] $1.45

PEL-021-109-349-BV Viton, Outer, Push Rod Tube Seal (25.5mm) (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 1976 (912E), Each [More Info]
Push Rod Tube Seals
[view in catalog] $1.50

With the engine in the car - degreasing was the worst part for me, I just threw my clothes out after finishing. The job itself wasn't too bad. I went with the Viton seals and just applied a very light coating of oil to the seals to ease installation. I did not use sealant. No leaks now! Just make sure the spring clips that hold the tubes in are seated correctly.

Good luck.

Thanks, I have a gasket kit that came with them. I'm not trying to stop all the leaks, just get the trail of oil stopped. Building my new motor as soon as I get this thing driving again.

Get the area as clean as you can before you start and keep everything clean as you go.

Since you're going to be under the car getting all greasy, why don't you check your oil cooler seals? I changed them at the same time I changed the pushrod tube seals without too much difficulty.

Eric

Probably should, but what would i have to do next weekend then

Make sure that when you put the pushrods back in that they are seated in the lifter correctly.

As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals?

Think you'd have to pull the upper tin to get to the top ones. A real PIA in the car.

Are you guys saying the push rod tube seals can be replaced without loosening the heads?

Yes, that much I know. Not like a type1. They pull out through the head.

You'll remove the rocker assemblies so that the tubes can slide out. Make sure you carefully mark/label each rocker and be sure to replace it on the same bolt holes from which it came.

In the past I'd only done this to type 1's. Thanks for the info!!!

Definately make sure the retainer clips are in correctly or they will lathe the pushrods in half.

Make sure you have each cylinder at TDC when you put its rocker arms and rocker shaft back on. If not, the valve springs will not even let the rocker shaft seat against the head when you get to the 10 lb-ft torque spec for the rocker shaft retaining nuts.

Getting the pushrods seated correctly in the lifter cups was always a bit of a pain. I have been known to stick the short arm of an L-shaped Allen wrench down the tube so I can lever up the inner end of the pushrod. A dab of grease on the end of the rod can help it stay put in the lifter cup, but make sure to use an oil-soluble grease (most break-in lubes are fine) so you don't clog up the hole through the pushrod.

Make sure the bores where the seals go are clean and smooth.

No sealer needed, just lube the seals.

And yes, make sure you get the bent wire that retains the tubes seated correctly. The inner parts of it should sit against the shoulders of the tubes, pushing them inward toward the cam. If the inner bends of the wire stick down the tube instead, you'll wind up with notched pushrods and lovely aluminum shavings in your sump and/or filter.

--DD

Look for lateral grooves, scores, scratches, or gouges in the PRT bores. If you have deep ugly gouges or grooves you may have a permanent leaker.

Jake Raby uses and recommends coating the push rod tube seals with a Locktite sealant that also acts like a lubricant when installing. I've used it on one engine with no leaks. Can't remember off the top of my head what the locktite product number is, sorry.

I have found that removing and seating the tubes is best done by wrapping a hose clamp, screw down, then tighten it around the tube. Grab the screw with vice grips and use your hand or a hammer on the vice grips. Breaks loose the old tubes and seats the new.

I remember Jake posting that too. I can't remember the sealant either. But he did say that you could omit the wire retainer if you used the right sealant. I'll be putting my new engine together one of these days and wish I could remember the sealant.

You would only be able to check the torque on the lower row of head nuts. The top row is hidden under the tin.

Great tip, thanks

It’s much easier to get at with the exhaust removed in case it hasn’t been mentioned already.

Question: Cylinder #1 and #2 cannot be at TDC at one time, but have a common rocker shaft. I must be missing something. Thanks

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Question: Cylinder #1 and #2 cannot be at TDC at one time, but have a common rocker shaft. I must be missing something. Thanks
[/quote]

Each cylinder has its own separate rocker shaft.

[quote name='jrmdir' date='Nov 20 2021, 10:52 AM' post='2961172']
[/quote]

Question: Cylinder #1 and #2 cannot be at TDC at one time, but have a common rocker shaft. I must be missing something. Thanks
[/quote]

Each cylinder has its own separate rocker shaft.
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Thanks, I was missing something. Still debating to open things up and change the tube seals. Discovered a missing threaded plug (secondary oil pressure). I did get the lower engine washed and will run it tomorrow and hopefully find the leak(s).