So, I need to see what people have done with the engine lid latch, computer and wires! I have the clutch, flywheel, TOB and internal oil cooler done.

I don't want to get into a discussion about if I need another cooler or not just the basic installation stuff. I will deal with the rest later!

Thanks for anything you have!

Jeff

A long read, but most of the answers should be in here ...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=44700


Andy

Are you running the CIS system? You might want to consider rotating the injection 180 degrees on the motor. I've seen it done and you have to modify the engine shroud,but the injection fits much better in this orientation, also I think you can use an air box from an audi... hopefully someone has some photos or more info.

I ran a 2.7 CIS for awhile, we had to flip the fuel distributor and remove the engine latch, (other wise left it mostly stock) but after going thru this I would find some way to end up keeping the engine latch( like rotating the injection).

Thanks Andy!

I have followed your build since the beginning and I have learned most of what I know from watching it progress. But the 3.2 & 3.6's that I have seen don't cover the 3.0 injection. I didn't think I could flip it on the 3.0 like you did! So, what I need is the specific 3.0 information about the engine lid latch and fitting it into the engine compartment with the stock injection.

If it can be flipped that would be great, let me know how!

OK thats what I am talking about!!

Details....Details!!

I've seen it done on a 3.2L conversion. Just take the whole upper intake and flip it 180 deg. and see if it fits any better ...

Andy

Thanks Andy,

I will try that when I remove everything to add the 6 tin. I was hoping to save some time by hearing from someone who has accualy done this on a 3.0.

Like you said it has been done many times on a 3.2 but I have not seen it on a 3.0 yet!

So if anyone has done this I would love to hear more about it!

You can also drop the nose of the engine about 3/4 to 1" for more clearance. Fit the engine before you weld in the mount.

Thanks but this is an original 6 with the factory mounts! I am trying not to cut anything if possible! I will move the engine lid latch if nessary but thats it!

This is what I would like to do in the second photo!
And the first photo is what I currently have. Can I replace my injector lines with the soft ones, turn everything 90' and add the extension to the intake like they did in the second photo?

Unless you want to cut into your rear firewall like I did moving it's the only way to make it fit. Here's some shots of my install;

I cut a hatch and fabricated 2 custom "bubble" panels; the one on the left to clear the FD I/O and the one on the right for the valve. I suppose you could simply relocate the valve but I was already doing the fab so it was no big deal. To make the cover I found another car that was being cut up and got the rear firewall piece. My firewall mount is a Rich Johnson knockoff (PO). You need to be carfeful about where the engine locates against the firewall. If the mount goes on too low you won't be able to get your linkage to clear your engine. I'm not sure how the engine will fit with the original /6 mount. It's probably best to fab it up first. I also deleted my engine bay circuit board (I replaced it with a relayed fuse panel inside the car) and put the battery in the trunk. It's really nice to have the extra room especially during oil changes and tune ups. The trunk latch was already cut off (PO) so I found some marine cam latches to keep my engine lid closed. Also, because it's a GT style lid it's a lot lighter than stock so I only need one of the springs to open it. (One of the springs was rubbing on the air bellow so that's the one I removed).

Hope this helps.

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Thanks Ahdoman,

I would like to think that something like this photo would be possible and avoid cutting but I have not gotten any confermation yet! It looks like it is a simple modification with an Audi airbox and moving the injection distrabution to the side?? I hope someone who has done this chimes in!

Is the 3.0 so much different from the 2.7 CIS? There are 3 screws that hold the fuel distributor on and you jsut remove the screws, rotate, the distributor, and reinstall the screws

Thats what I am talking about! The injector feed tubes are hard on the 3.0 and not flexable like the 2.7 but most of the rest look close to the same!