What are the "real" facts on soda blasting and the "home" types of equipment.

I've done quite a bit of research and I cannot come to a conclusion... it is the proverbial 50% love 50% hate it kind of thing.

What about the equipment... Eastwood etc have relatively affordable units ($300 or so) but... do they really work and are they worth it?

Is this process really better than 1) Sand paper and elbow grease 2) aircraft stripper?

What say those in the know?

I've had soda blasting done on some parts. The results are excellent. The surface remains smooth, unlike sand. You'll have to wash the parts off with warm soapy water to remove the residue prior to painting etc. The soda works better than aircraft stripper. Some of the parts I sent him, he needed to use sand being the soda couldn't remove all the paint.
Those parts were the muffler and intake runners. All of the heating tin he used soda on. I guess soda has it's limitations. I would think for a do it yourself unit, you would either need to do it outside or invest in some kind of filter/venting system. Other wise you'll have toxic dust filling the air.

Didn't Zach use a cheap siphon blaster? I seem to remember that he got good results with carburetor parts. I was going to try the same thing with a Matchbox 914 as paint preparation.

Sand is more toxic than Soda IMO. HF had a nice little pressurized soda blaster on sale for less than 100 this weekend. Don't know anything about it though.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=66742

I bought a cheap sodablasting gun from HF a few months back, did nice work on a set of carbs, strips the varnish from inside and cleans up the outside. Plan on doing a set of pedrinni's I have as well. I also have a sandblasting setup, but it seems to warp the metal too much and is a bit abrasive.

I looked into it, and although I have the compressor and shop vac, buying the case, the blaster, and media, didn't make sense for the small parts...

For small parts, just use a cheap siphon blaster - mine was $15.00 from Home Depot, and it worked like a charm. But I was only doing (very dirty) carbs with the cheapest grocery store soda I could find. I suppose you could do a car that way, but it would take a long time - especially if it was humid out, as the soda would start clumping.

To do a whole car, you would want a better setup, and you would want to use better soda. Natruim is the brand name that I can get locally (by the 50lb bag) and it is suppsoed to do a MUCH better job then el-cheapo soda. I think the big differences with pressure pots and soda is the tip size, and keeping the soda dry. It looses its power when damp.

Zach

I also used a cheap siphon. worked fine.(outside) I used the soda from HF. Don't try to use it in a cabinet. Even with the vacuum on, it made such a cloud of dust, I couln't see what I was doing.

I tried it here. I did the case halves, carb bodies, intakes, oil baffle, and a bunch of other parts and I still have a ton of the stuff left. I think Eastwood makes an adapter kit for the pressure blasters. My HF blaster looks identical to the Eastwood one.

How about some input from you "Blast-xperts" out there on different blast media, cuz in addition to the various grades/grits of sand & soda - there is also plastic beads & walnut shells (ground to different grits)?

I'd heard that bead blasting can warp the sheet metal, as with sand blasting (Dr.914 George/AA on latter), so it's best left to thicker metal parts & not bodywork. Both also leave too much roughness on the surface for most applications.

Whereas, the walnut shell media can supposedly be ground into a wide range of grits from soda to sand comparable grits, but I would think that the shells would have more "give" & be a bit "softer" particles, than are either sand or beads. Anyone used this media to do their bodywork?

I'd also read in a Hemmings S&E resto article a couple of months back, that soda blasting won't remove anything but the lightest of rust (as well as some heavier/sturdier paint as noted in another post above), so you have to go to a more abrasive media.

George/AA & most auto paint shops (even our house painter for our 1921 Calif Bungalow) recommend against chemical strippers, mainly because you cannot be sure that you've "killed" & removed all of the stripper from the cracks & crevices, such that it can work on the paint from underneath over time in those places where it's "hiding".

There are also the toxicity problems with chemicals in terms of kids, pets, you & your help, plants, clean-up, disposal, etc., etc. - assuming that you can get it in your area. Those strippers still available today are "de-tuned" versions & supposedly don't work as well as the old days' stuff.

On the other hand, SoCal Andy with the restored yellow 72 in the cars of the month said he used it so he could do the stripping himself at home, & has had no problems with it (perhaps only so far, if the other gurus are right - or maybe he's just lucky).

There is also the wire wheel & brush on power hand tools (drill, sander, buffer) for stripping the paint, rust & tough stuff as another option to what you mention.

FYI - Hemmings S&E actually had an actual article in their Feb 2010 pg 66 issue on pot blasters & soda.

BTW - HF has a bunch of 20% off one item ads out in various publications & online right now, so you & some friends can probably get the whole set-up for 20% with multiple purchases & reimburse your family members & buddies!

Thanx for asking this question! I'm trying to figure this out for my resto too, as are others on 914world too!

with Tom.

Media is everything.

I tried soda blasting a few years back, but apparently with the wrong media. I started with Coke, but experienced an immediate ant problem. Then I went to Diet Coke, but it just wasn't course enough. I finally settled on Dr. Pepper as the soda of choice.

But I'll warn you, the cleanup after balasting was an incredible amount of work...




Eric

I like Dr. Pecker or "a lil' Squirt" myself Eric!

BTW - go to the Anaheim Porsche swap-n-show even if the brakes aren't in from PMB! ... take your DD or rent Enterprise for the day if you must!

One guy on here said he took his shell over to a vacant field behind his house to soda blast the shell to avoid the cleanup PITA. We don't have that luxury here in "urbanized" OC ...... ...... unless Orange HS next door will let me use their football field & leave the mess!!??

I've done a bit of media blasting in past jobs i've had as well as on my own parts. From everything I've done and heard, here is my knowledge on the subject.

Sand blasting, for the most part, is a much heavier (low grit) media. I've always used this for suspension arms and thicker metal areas.

Bead blasting usually is made of smaller glass (higher grit) media. I've always used this for cleaning cylinder heads, engine tin, thinner metals, and parts that I want a much finer/smoother surface, as well as removing stains.

Soda blasting, extremely fine, used for cleaning engine parts and making my BBS outer rim halfs look mat finished after clear anodyzing (the RSR look). This does not remove water stains and other corrosion marks, however does remove the corrosion and oxidation. Another great thing about soda is if you don't get every last bit out of your motor cavities, it won't f-up your motor the way sand or bead will.

Walnut and other plastic media I have not used personally, however walnut is a great media for stripping cars because it is softer than sand and doesn't cause the same friction that sand does when hitting the metal surface.

Keep in mind, warping sheet metal when media blasting can happen with any media, the trick is to not focus too much time on one area, which friction causes the material to heat up and warp... or so it has been explained to me. People usually don't set up the equipment properly, are in a rush and have the pressure too high for the speed they are traveling with the gun. Its just like painting cars for those of you who have done that: pressure, volume of paint coming out, and speed of travel.

If it were my project, I would sand blast the insides of a car, paint strip the outside and limit the outside blasting the rust areas. Then DA the rest of the outside. It takes longer doing it that way, but I wouldn't want to chance warping the big flat areas.

Hope that helps a little, its what little I know on the subject.

Add Mentos next time.

Common myth apparently as I was told... the heat is not the issue... the pressure and force as you alluded to are the issue.

Most people use too agressive a media and too high a pressure and the peening effect will cause the warping.

I was really thinking about soda b/c of the lower toxicity of this method and the speed of removal. Of course I could do the AC stripper and DA etc... but in the end isn't this just as toxic and bigger pain in the ass.

Keep in mind... I am doing an entire car... body off the frame so this is a lot of work for a soda blaster. One of the reasons I wanted to do it though was that ability to do things like the carbs and transmission etc... things that regular media would ruin.

Tom;

I'm definitely going to the literature show on Saturday, but I doubt I'll be able to make the swap meet. Here's my work list for Satruday afternoon and Sunday:

Click to view attachment

Eric

IMHO - I'd work Sat & skip the Lit show, & hit the swap for needed parts - but maybe you've got what you need already!?

331K - really - on your 914??

My list is simpler but bigger - EVERYTHING!

It's supposed to rain Sat/Sun anyway, which kills my work plan due to our very small 1921 18' x 17.5' garage, where I need to roll either my shell or 914 project out - so I'm dead with rain! Wouldn't you know we go thru all those years of drought, then get an El Nino the year I want to do the resto!

Tom
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Good info.!

BTW - back in the day, we used to call this in need of a "glass navel" - we'd put a clear marble in a small jewelry box with instructions to "...place this in your navel to see where you are going...." & "gift" it to anyone in need of such "assistance"!!!!

Great info!!!!
, but pardon my ignorance Don - What mean "DA" Kimo-slobbie????

PS Todd - That Feb. 2010 Hemmings "Sports & Exotics" blasting article on pg 66 was basic info, but helpful to me, if you've not read it yet.

:
I didn't know these cars' body's came off the frame!?!? Please do include pictures! Say it with me class: U-NI-BO-DY.

I started thinking about it after I posted it, your right about it not being the heat and more the force.

Don - All ~ what is "DA" after media blasting or chemical stripping????

dual action sander, typically air powered. it spins a shaft which has a sanding pad on the end that is offset from the center, so it spins in another "dual" circle.

This is the 4th time i've seen someone ask "what is a DA". doesn't anyone google search? i'm not having a go at you Tom, but seriously, type in "DA after media blasting" in google and see what pops up.

Cheers, Don.

From what I have read, Walnut does not do a good job on paint, and won't touch rust. I use walnut shell in my reloading tumbler to clean brass. It cleans the dirt off, but won't touch the corrosion.

Sode will strip paint well, but won't tough rust. You need to use somehting stronger against rust.

The reason soda is so hot right now is the cleanup is a snap. Just put a hose on it and it is gone. Also, you don't have to take all the plastic and rubber off the car, as the soda won't hurt it.

Also the film it leaves prevents rust if you don't paint right away. This same film needs to be washed off before painting.

But, its no good against rust.

Zach

Thanx Don!

btw - google searching takes time & you never know if it's a specialized term not there ..... and then too, I'm an old fart used to just asking the person throwing out the jargon what it means!

I also left you a reply re your bumper topper WTB, if you're still looking

Put one on the Barbie & enjoy - Cheers Mate!
Tom
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Hmmmm ..... I'd heard it does work well on paint, but the grit needs to be right I suppose, or it won't.

Just remember all, IF you use sand, wear a respirator. Silica is really bad for your lungs. This from someone who smokes....

Wrong car Skippy This is actually my TR6

What does DA mean?

Well let's see Rob, other "DA" industry-specific & other terms of which I'm aware using this acronym off the top of my head:

- Direct Assessment (RE Appraisal)
- Dimensional Adjustment(s) (Woodworking & Cabinetry)
- District Attorney (Legal System)
- Divisional Adjutant (Military Posting/Duty)
- Duck's Ass (also called Duck Tail - as in men's hair cut or auto/boat rear spoiler)
~ and I didn't even need to Google nor look in a dictionary for these!

When folks on here ask a reasonable question about something that the "gear heads" may be perfectly familiar with, don't assume that everyone is going to know it on this website - nor immediately jump to "dual action" (same with Don). That just turns folks off & sends them away with a bad taste, when we're supposed to be helping fellow Teeners here. I'm sure there are plenty of 914 things that I know from my 35 years of owning mine - which you do not, but I wouldn't think to make fun of nor belittle you nor anyone else for asking a reasonable question or for clarification. That attitude belongs at the DMV!

.... & don't be a smart A or I'll send you a glass navel per my post above!

...... hmmm ..... I suppose I should thank you though for illustrating someone in need of one!?

... any more?

Yes... Dumb Ass

Okay Rob - I know where Fairy Oaks is & may still make it to Tahoe - even if my 914 isn't dun yet - so watch yursef!!!!

My luck on the 914 resto so far:
- Resored & All Drive train overhauled for $6500 back in 80-83
- Hit R & pushed F in while parked in a UCLA Pkg Structure May 85 - another $6500!!
- Stored in my garage since 5/85 - raise kids, etc. to now
- 2005 plan to start on 914 resto - Bimmer gets hit - fix & renovate/resto that!
- 2007 plan start 914 again - Westy gets hit - do that reno/resto
- 2008 ditto - wife's brother passed & we inherit his Honda to renovate for kids
- late 08 Dad dies & extends Honda work into April 09
- May 09 - Oopps, what "popped"!!!!!!!? - my surgery & miss WCR in Irvine!!
- rest of 09 clearing out the crap & getting parts & advice, then .....
- Friggin' El Nino year 09/10 - & I need to roll 914 or shell out to work, no go in rain!

Ergo - no running & restored 914 this year, and it's just not as much fun at these events without one!

At least RobW didn't call me a Dumb Ass directly! I avoided that one just in case he did!

When it comes to Soda Blasting a whole car, I think its best to take it to someone. I stripped my car to bare metal using various methods. I tried the soda blasting, and it is really slow! I used a harbor freight sand blaster with the Eastwood conversion kit. The eastwood kit is $10 worth of home depot parts that they sell you for $100. I ended up using aircraft stripper to strip the whole car first. This was fairly fast and easy, just spread some on, go relax for 20 minutes, then scrape off the paint. After I was done with the aircraft stripper, I used the soda blaster for all the hard to get bits. Make sure you wear a mask when soda blasting, and good goggles. The soda will make your nose and eyes burn. I put a big tarp under the car, and blasted it in my driveway. When I was done I folded up the tarp with the soda, and dumped in the trash. The rest of the mess cleaned up easy with a hose.