Perhaps someone here has some experience with old Walker-Turner Drill presses.

For the life of me, i cannot figure out how to get the old belt off, and new one on. There are no set screws that I can see in the pulley. Most drill presses that i have seen have open top pulleys, so you just release tension, and lift the belt off over the top. As you can see in the pic, thats not going to work on the front. Do I have to drop the spindle out of it?

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I'm guessing here. But it looks like there's a setscrew in the housing above the pulley. If you loosen that, and perhaps one on the pulley itself, the entire shaft might come out. Can you see another setscrew on the lower part of the housing too?

Either the pulley has a bearing in it and the shaft is stationary, or the shaft rotates as well and the pulley is fastened to it.

Locate what turns and that'll tell you what comes out

Good Luck!

Actually, there are holes on either side for what could be set screws but no screws in them! The splined spindle and pulley rotate together. I think i will dig out my better camera and post a better pic.

Better pics
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That splined shaft has to be moved either up or down to free the pulley because the cast housing looks like it doesn't from the available pics.

I'd look lower for how the shaft is held vertically. Maybe a screw, clip, retaining ring, bolts, whatever located down lower pr maybe under.

Not enough info in the top pics.

Get a bigger hammer.

that is a bad ass old school drill press. show uus teh rest of it please. I agree. the spindle must be dropped out to remove the pulley. looks like a keyed shaft that moves indepentent of teh pulley and pulley drive hub. drop teh table low enough to clear spindle length. look for spindle spring release from underside near chuck. look for spindle sto0p release also under bottom spindle boss.

please show under side of spindle boss

NO HAMMER. DONT LISTEN TO PEOPLE WHO OWN CARS WITH EATING DISORDERS.
a plastic mallet or dead blow may be used gently but only after finding the release pin

...I bet it will drop right out after releasing the return spring and stop block

I was thinking that, but afraid if i undid the cover on the return spring, the spring would go "boing" and i would have a mess getting it back in. Here are details of the lower area and chuck. And some additional "Drill Press Porn" As requested. (my god, it has come to this.....). Best of all I got it years ago at the Marin Mammal Centers old rummage sale that took up an entire warehouse at Hamilton Field for 15 bucks. You had to get there when the doors opened to scoop up the real bargains. I ran in right to the tool area, saw this thing, and started hooting like a chimp being shown a whole bunch of bananas!


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Ha, your in for a little fun. The spindle has to come out. You should be able to leave the quill in, but forgive me, since it's been A LOT of years since I had one apart. I think we have parts list here for those. I can look it up later and see what needs to come off.

Good lord. ARE THERE NO SMALL, QUICK and EASY projects???

This might help shed some light on whats inside....
http://estrategy.net/bill/website/tools/re...tdprestoration/

Is this the manual for yours?
http://www.owwm.com/mfgIndex/pubdetail.aspx?id=2244


If not you might find it here http://www.hammerwall.com/Manuals/Walker-Turner/424/

Ok, looks like the 20 or so we had went to schools/salvage, so the books got tossed. Spoke with two of the "older" mechanics, they both though the same thing. The spindle drops out the bottom. Should be a spanner nut on the bottom of the quill that holds the spindle in to the quill. They also said should be set screws on or around the pully for the upper end, so double check. Neither thought you needed to take apart the quill itself, the spindle should come out leaving the upper bearing in place and the lower set will come out with the spindle shaft. Ours were somewhat bigger than the one you have, so may be somewhat different.

Wow, sure looks like it......

Ok, looks like the 20 or so we had went to schools/salvage, so the books got tossed. Spoke with two of the "older" mechanics, they both though the same thing. The spindle drops out the bottom. Should be a spanner nut on the bottom of the quill that holds the spindle in to the quill. They also said should be set screws on or around the pully for the upper end, so double check. Neither thought you needed to take apart the quill itself, the spindle should come out leaving the upper bearing in place and the lower set will come out with the spindle shaft. Ours were somewhat bigger than the one you have, so may be somewhat different.
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So that would mean the knurled ring with holes in it right above the chuck? My other thought has been to CUT the belt and then replace with Link belt, as it seems you could thread the link belt, and assemble the ends with all pulleys in place.

Ok, got it. Take stop nuts off of depth gauge, run spindle down until it falls out (oops), then take top bearing holder off (pipe wrench), push pulley up, and take belt off from under pulley.

Thanks all for the help.

The quill drive on my old Bridgeport is just like your drill press - I had to take apart most of the head (the entire veridrive and the quill ball-screw) just to replace a silly belt. The upside was the belt was 30 years old so I won't have to do it again.

Looks like you got a great deal on a nice tool - they sure as hell don't make stuff like that anymore. I paid a lot more for a decent used cast iron drill press that is no where near the one you have.
Steve

I love the thing. Now if i could just get the quill to engage the feed cog....grrrr.

Jeff,

I use a special belt on my 12-inch disk 6-belt sander. These types of belts can be put together in sections and you would not need to take you unit apart, just cut the old belt off. The belts cost more but they last forever. Mcmaster or Graingers.

Bob
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UPdate.....there is a splined sleeve in the pulley in the headstock that engages the drive spline. Its just spinning around in the pulley. There are NO set screw provisions.