Ran the 2056 on the stand for a last time to get the oil warm, and do the initial change, and get her ready for installation. Did another valve check. Which got me to thinking.

I am setting it to the spec that came with the cam, .006 for both exhaust and intake. Lift (.465) and duration (280 deg.) are the same for both valves.

Question is, if exhaust valves expand more due to heat than intake, why does webcam recommend .006 for both? Why not .006 and .008 as is standard?

It SEEMS to be running pretty well, but I know i have a good deal of fooling around with jets and such once its on the road and i can test her under load. At one point at about 3500 rpm it started firing back through No 4., but that was right about the time i was running out of gas in my temp. tank. I shut it off, and got a big pop and some flame out the tail pipe.

I would really like address/double check anything now, as its way easier accesing things on the stands.

I think the board would like to know what kind of pushrods you are using. Aluminum or chromoly steel, both use different values.

Stocker aluminium

Stock pushrods? Are you sure your geometry is right?

Zach

...........well I guess some of the other engine experts just don't want to be next....So ok he is what I recommend......USE .oo6ths on the INTAKE, USE .oo8ths on the EXHAUST.after the engine is broken in. ....If the truth be known-EVERY camshaft I have had analyzed came out to be-->008ths as a standard base /radus/lobe/ideal valve lash....This is compatable with all GERMAN cam-grinder design specifications.(for damn near any camshaft for any car)...This subject can get ,lengthly and very complex..(..and i,m just on my first cup of coffee.)...IF YOU HAVE JUST assembled and are running in a new engine---use a -loose .008 ths on intake and exhaust---for about 500 miles., and check your lash a few times. this will ensure that as your NEW valve job, VALVES are seating, there will be a little extra clearance for them to do so.....and NOT hold any valve off it,s seat.....YOU want to hear a little valve rattle.(good)....no valve rattle.(bad) ..(excepting hydrolic lifters)...and you should listen for intake-"cough". which is a sure sign of too tight a valve lash.(assuming everything else is perfect). MY opinion is on a new engine go with a larger valve lash during the break -in -period.->008 ths is a good number, intake and exhaust.................M.M.

Yeah I checked the valve stem/adjuster relations, and it all looked pretty good, actually. Nicely lined up.

never heard this. Are you sure that you dont mean break in as in the 20 mins or so of initial Cam break in? Not really relishing the thought of frequent valve measurements under the car.

.............I,m sure........You may get a different opinion from every engine builder thats alive/or dead....This technique ain't the simple way....It does ensure seated valves., which is a good thing for longevity. After all how long does it take to check the valve lash?.....you'll get good at it, and it won't be nearly such a chore as you think.....................M.M.

The .008" number is specified ONLY for T4 engines with Sodium filled exhaust valves. All others use .006 for stock setups, or what the camshaft or pushrod manufacturer recommends.

The Cap'n

Hey Cap'n - So you would not go with the "run em loose" for break in advise???

If you really want to know whats going on with your particular set up, check the valves at TDC cold and recheck after you put some heat in the engine for comparison.

I'd expect that you didn't carry out any valvetrain geometry procedures?? I've never seen a 494 come close to optimizing with a stock length pushrod.

The 494 has a fast ramp, it must have geometry carried out to prevent valvetrain wear, especially valve guides.

I run'em where they're supposed to be, whatever that is for the particular application. After cranking for oil pressure with the plugs out, I run pushrod engines for 20-30 minutes at 1500-2000 RPM, then fine tune the carbs and timing before shutting it down and allowing it to cool down for 3-4 hours. I then check and adjust the valves before installing the engine. On FI engines I do the same thing, only in the car.

The Cap'n

Running loose retards valve timing events and wears components. I have never understood why people do this.

I confess to knowing that loose valve settings also contribute to a HUGE reduction in HCs when done in conjunction with an emissions test. Not that I would ever resort to that nefarious strategy to get one of my customers' 1976 or newer Type 1 cabbie or 914 through a smog test............

The Cap'n

This made me LOL for real.
Zach

Gotta good chuckle here too.

I did a dry assembly and did a quick and dirty visual check of the adjuster/pushrod relation, and it looked pretty well aligned throughout its cycle. Then again, i only looked at one cylinder and just assumed that it would be the same for all others. Probably hosed myself on that one, but at this point, I dont think i want to pull her apart again.

It could be the difference between a 5,000 mile engine and a 100,000 mile engine. It would take a weekend to make sure its right.

If you did not measure the valve lift, you are leaving power on the table, and might end up with a very difficult to tune motor that runs too hot. If you did not make sure that the valve stem and and valve foot were on the same plane at exactly 1/2 lift, you are going to have excessive wear to your valve guides and seats.

And it would only take a weekend to check it, if the engine is not in your car yet.

Even if you don't have a dial indicator, a 1 inch indicator with a vise-grip flex mount is only ~$30 from harbor freight.

Learn from my mistakes. I cut corners on the first motor that I built. I had to rebuild it 6 months later (with only about 10 miles on the motor). its better to only do it once and have it done right.

Once you get the procedure down for the first pushrod, making the next 7 is EASY! But the first one will take ~2 hours to make.

Zach

Zach,

I apologize for not using the search feature
I'm sure that Jake covers this very well on his site somewhere also.

but do you have a link to the correct procedure
I need to learn this

tia
brant

....a visual? How about a measurement of actual values?
You have made an alteration of the camshaft, and probably after 30+ years at least 6 more of the 11 variables that can directly impact valvetrain are present within your engine combination.

So you must follow a specific procedure to MEASURE these things and then ensure that the proper set up is carried out.

Otherwise you'll wonder why the engine sounds like diesel, eats valve guides and requires constant valve adjustments. The web 494 is a cam with some aggressive ramps and due to that its hard on valve train components.

I have it saved somewhere at work. But if you search for it over on Jakes site you will find it. He wrote it.

Zach

Allrighty, will devise a nice mount for my dial indicator and check it more carefully. Just one more thing to keep me from actually putting the engine it. Which of course, means I can delay prepping and painting the engine bay. And thats a good thing, as i hate paint prep.

Allrighty, check it out. No 3 exhaust, half way though travel. My cam spec is .465 lift, both ex. and intake....i am getting .446, which is under 5% variation. By my eye, the adjuster/valve orientation looks good. What do ya'll think? This is Stock push rods, P/C are 96mm (not sure on the height).

Should I go with it? Do I have to check all the other valves since the lift spec is same for Exhaust and intake?

OOPS.....forgot the pic...think the angle of my DI could be too great for accuracy?

.Click to view attachment

Too far out to run as is? Also, I did not set to zero lash as Jake recommends in his art. on the topic. I think that would narrow the angle. But would not you rather be looking at the real world angle as it will be set ?


And THANKS! What program are you using to draw the lines?

Jeff,

any chance you have a link to the article?
I've still been too lazy to go searching
brant

The procedure should be done at zero lash. Also, the web 494 has a ramp speed thats fast enough to kill valve adjusters unless they are swivel feet.

Adding cam without upgrading THE ENTIRE valve train is a nasty mistake.. Those stock adjusters will be hating life.

And those stock retainers were barely acceptable for a stock camshaft...

Those are the reasons why I only sell valve train kits...

Not to question your experience, Jake, of which i have utmost respect. Just trying to learn.

If your valve adj. and valve stem are in perfect alignment at mid stroke, seem like your going to be out of alignment for the rest of the stroke either before or after the midpoint. Doesnt this also cause loading on the valve? IE in Marks drawings as the adjuster comes down, seems like the top of the blue line would move left. As it goes up, it the top would swing closer to the redline, right?

Yes, but at mid-lift the valve has the most force against the guide, which is what you need to reduce.

The very issue you mention is exactly WHY the swivel foot valve adjuster is such a worthy upgrade.

Follow the procedure I outlined, its the same procedure that most all builders follow, not just me. I do this with every engine I build, from 36 HP to over 500 HP roller turbo engines. This procedure when used in our FP race engine keeps valve guides in service for two seasons of 9,000 RPM operation. It works.

Thanks for the (continuing) education!

Is this pic supposed to be showing 1/2 lift or full? Above you say half way thru travel... to me that implies 1/2 lift. If thats the case how are you measuring .446 at half lift?

If .446 is what you get at full lift, then your half lift number will be .223. Thats where everything should be lined up.

Hope this helps.

Pic is at half lift, .223.