I recently disassembled my speedometer to fix the Odometer per Pelican's instructions. I also corrected some wiring irregularities on the gauges. Doing all this late at night, I didn't get a chance to take my 914 our for a test drive.
This morning I ambitiously planned to drive to work - something about 70 degree afternoon forecast got the better of me.
The first thing I noticed was that the e-brake indicator/flasher won't go off. It's not the button on the handbrake, as I can depress the button all the way with my finger and the dash light continues to flash away. It got so annoying on the way to work that I eventually pulled off and disconnected the lead from the back of the combo gauge.
Second, my Odometer "Fix" hadn't worked. Odo wasn't rolling.
Third, my speedometer has a new issue... at low speeds, the needle jumps periodically all the way to the 150mph+ range with an audible "pop". I know it's mechanically driven but the popping sound had me worried that something was shorting out back there and causing it to jump... Now I think I've ruled that out, and my guess is that I left something too tight when I tried to fix the Odometer, and the speedo drive is struggling to overcome some friction inside the gauge. Is this a common problem? Time for a professional gauge rebuild or a replacement gauge?
Any help appreciated... especially if it's something I can do in the parking lot at my office before the drive home this afternoon!
Full Version: Gauge Hell
Push the reset on the master cylinder to turn off the light, and send the delicate speedometer instrument to Palo Alto Speedometer to rebuild CORRECTLY!
I recently disassembled my speedometer to fix the Odometer per Pelican's instructions. I also corrected some wiring irregularities on the gauges. Doing all this late at night, I didn't get a chance to take my 914 our for a test drive.
This morning I ambitiously planned to drive to work - something about 70 degree afternoon forecast got the better of me.
The first thing I noticed was that the e-brake indicator/flasher won't go off. It's not the button on the handbrake, as I can depress the button all the way with my finger and the dash light continues to flash away. It got so annoying on the way to work that I eventually pulled off and disconnected the lead from the back of the combo gauge.
Second, my Odometer "Fix" hadn't worked. Odo wasn't rolling.
Third, my speedometer has a new issue... at low speeds, the needle jumps periodically all the way to the 150mph+ range with an audible "pop". I know it's mechanically driven but the popping sound had me worried that something was shorting out back there and causing it to jump... Now I think I've ruled that out, and my guess is that I left something too tight when I tried to fix the Odometer, and the speedo drive is struggling to overcome some friction inside the gauge. Is this a common problem? Time for a professional gauge rebuild or a replacement gauge?
Any help appreciated... especially if it's something I can do in the parking lot at my office before the drive home this afternoon!
QUOTE(flipb @ Mar 19 2010, 07:22 AM) 
I recently disassembled my speedometer to fix the Odometer per Pelican's instructions. I also corrected some wiring irregularities on the gauges. Doing all this late at night, I didn't get a chance to take my 914 our for a test drive.
This morning I ambitiously planned to drive to work - something about 70 degree afternoon forecast got the better of me.
The first thing I noticed was that the e-brake indicator/flasher won't go off. It's not the button on the handbrake, as I can depress the button all the way with my finger and the dash light continues to flash away. It got so annoying on the way to work that I eventually pulled off and disconnected the lead from the back of the combo gauge.
Second, my Odometer "Fix" hadn't worked. Odo wasn't rolling.
Third, my speedometer has a new issue... at low speeds, the needle jumps periodically all the way to the 150mph+ range with an audible "pop". I know it's mechanically driven but the popping sound had me worried that something was shorting out back there and causing it to jump... Now I think I've ruled that out, and my guess is that I left something too tight when I tried to fix the Odometer, and the speedo drive is struggling to overcome some friction inside the gauge. Is this a common problem? Time for a professional gauge rebuild or a replacement gauge?
Any help appreciated... especially if it's something I can do in the parking lot at my office before the drive home this afternoon!
Where is the reset button on the master cylinder? I converted to a 19mm one...does mine have the reset button too? I also have this same problem with the flashing red light and that never ending annoying clicking sound....I know its not my e-brake.
I would recommend Marks as he is way WAY cheaper than Palo or Hollywood, he rebuilt my speedo for me and also converted from MPH to KMH so I can drive in Japan here. I plan to use him again for one of his amazing quad gauges and to rebuilt my Tach too with a new redline for my 2,2 engine. Cheers
Jamie
I would recommend Marks as he is way WAY cheaper than Palo or Hollywood, he rebuilt my speedo for me and also converted from MPH to KMH so I can drive in Japan here. I plan to use him again for one of his amazing quad gauges and to rebuilt my Tach too with a new redline for my 2,2 engine. Cheers
Jamie
Check the speedo cable to see if it's kinked.
QUOTE(nsr-jamie @ Mar 19 2010, 10:54 AM)
Where is the reset button on the master cylinder? I converted to a 19mm one...does mine have the reset button too?
Good question... Mine was converted to 19mm by a PO as well. Anyone?
Disconnecting the black/green/white wire from the Brake indicator stops the flashing... my temporary fix.
Yes, the 19mm master cylinder has the reset button. Or you have a short to ground in the wiring on either the handbrake circuit or the master cylinder circuit.
The speedo is suspect. You probably got it off center. It works by a magnet connected to the needle, and a disk over it connected to the cable. Magnetic attraction causes the needle to move upward farther when the disk is spun faster. If you get one of the tiny jeweled bearing off, the disk hits the magnet, and it makes weird noises.
While I know how they work, i refrain from tackling them myself. Send it to a reputable re-builder to be fixed.
The speedo is suspect. You probably got it off center. It works by a magnet connected to the needle, and a disk over it connected to the cable. Magnetic attraction causes the needle to move upward farther when the disk is spun faster. If you get one of the tiny jeweled bearing off, the disk hits the magnet, and it makes weird noises.
While I know how they work, i refrain from tackling them myself. Send it to a reputable re-builder to be fixed.
Is the reset on the brake pressure sending unit on the master cylinder?
Jsaum
Jsaum
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