now that the rains have stopped and the 4 inches of water have gone it is time to install the tie rods. am i supposed to use the brass washer or the old cover (it's red now) or both. without the red piece what is gonna hold the boot in place? the rubber ring on the shaft is too small.

Click to view attachment

The small ring on the new rod is where the smaller side of the new bellows will go. The larger side of the bellow should go on the ring that should still be on the rack.

Don't know about the collar shown in the pic.

That spacer, assuming there are two, looks like the ones you put between the rack and the body to prevent bump-steer on lowered cars.

Good luck

The gold washer is the spacer between the tie rod and the rack

Dump the red thing, you don't need it. I think it depends on what struts you have as to whether or not you use that think washer or a thinner washer from the hardware store. The washer has nothing to do with bump steer. Thinner washer will give you more adjustability in the tie rod to adjust toe.
Check this out:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=43121&st=0

NyChef,

The rubber boot goes on the small ring on the tie rod and the groove that is part of the rack...loose the red washer.

You MUST use the new washer. If you do not, you will have to turn out the tie rod so far that only a little bit of thread remains and its VERY dangerous.
The washer goes on the large threaded end of the tie rod and then you thread the tie rod into the rack.
You must put the boot on first. You slide it over the small part and slide it towards the middle to get it out of the way so you can thread the tie rod and get a wrench on it...
Put the small spring clamp on the tie rod first...then the boot, then the washer, then install the inner threaded portion.
make sure you put the large spring clamp on the rack before you thread in the tie rod.
Then once the inner portion is threaded and tight, you slide the rubber back towards the middle of the car and flip it onto the small end of the tie rod.
The hard part is getting the big end in place while its all in the car.
It takes patience...even if its out of the car, but you can do it.

Rich

Tire Rods -- Gotta go look that one up in my Clymer.

It may look like those, sorta, but it's not. It goes between the rack and the tie rod, as others have said.

The Cap'n

Not bump steer stuff. I stand corrected gents. Thanks!

How does a gold washer make the threads on the tie rod longer? What's next, a wire stretcher? Cross drilled brake hoses? Zero friction muffler bearings?

thanks guys got them on except the boot on the driver side which is a real pain. there was a 1/4 inch difference is the length of the old tie rods. how should i set the new ones till i get a proper front end allignment

The washer spaces the tie rod outboard off the rack toward the strut. If you don't have the washer it pulls the tie rod inboard and depending on which struts your using you would have to spin the tie rod end out to a point where you only get a few threads of engagement.

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The washer spaces the tie rod outboard off the rack toward the strut. If you don't have the washer it pulls the tie rod inboard and depending on which struts your using you would have to spin the tie rod end out to a point where you only get a few threads of engagement.
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OK, so they added threads on the inner portion, gave you a spacer to move the rod out .25", so that you have more threads on the outside portion.

Why not add more threads on the outside portion?

[quote name='70_914' date='Mar 19 2010, 05:38 PM' post='1289220']
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The washer spaces the tie rod outboard off the rack toward the strut. If you don't have the washer it pulls the tie rod inboard and depending on which struts your using you would have to spin the tie rod end out to a point where you only get a few threads of engagement.
[/quote]


OK, so they added threads on the inner portion, gave you a spacer to move the rod out .25", so that you have more threads on the outside portion.

Why not add more threads on the outside portion?
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These turbo tie rods were designed for the 930, the struts, probably the rack and suspension geometry are somewhat different then the 914.

Try to remember that this is an upgrade from a stock part designed for another car. Its a simple solution to use the washer, and you must for safety.

Rich,
Turn the wheel to the middle and lube up the boot.
Put the top in the notch and use a pair of pliers to slowly work it around alternating from both sides of the rack...eventually it will go....yes it sucks.

To set your alignment well enough to get to a real shop and get a real alignment (which you must do) use a tape measure.

Loosen the lock nut on the tie rod, put the wheels on and set the car on the ground.
Put a 2*4 about 2-3 feet long (you need two that match) up against the tire on the outside so the board is standing on the thin edge and its touching the tire.

With the steering wheel set to the middle, measure from the front and rear of the board (it sticks out past the tire) and reach under with your hands and turn the tie rod to get about 1/8 inch toe in at the front of the tire...
That will get you to sears.
Jack up the car and tighten the lock nuts on the tie rod so you wont die.

Rich

Could someone please post the dimensions of the washer (spacer) supplied with the turbo tie rod kit? (ID, OD and thickness) I have a set of TTR on a car without the washers and would like to add some as a stop for the rack. thank you.