I'm trying to fix a problem where my starter is getting constant power from the battery. Everything was fine, and then out of no where the starter just keeps running. The bendix isn't kicking out and trying to crank over the motor- it's just running.

I looked over the relay board since I searched first and noticed another recent thread on this- but my 14-pin and 12-pin connectors are fine. The ignition switch however has been broken since I bought the car. The tumbler comes out on the key. So I figure now is a good time to replace it anyway.

So I dug through my many tubs holding pieces and parts from several parts cars and I indeed found a steering column with an ignition switch in it that I actually have a key for.

Problem is- it's a late model so it's not a direct swap.

So what I need to know is- which wire goes where when I re-wire this thing?

Anybody know?

This help? Sorry for the crummy drawing.


Click to view attachment

I believe you will have to change the entire colum, not just the switch.

If your bendix is not engaging, I think you may have a bad starter. You should remove it and test it out of the car with a set of jumper cables. The solenoid on the side of the starter is suspect. It may have an internal short causing our problem.

Definitely true. You must change the entire steering column assembly. The ignition switches are not physically compatible, i.e. you cannot install the late switch into the early column. Also, the wipers on the late cars are operated by a stalk switch on the column, whereas the early cars use a dash-mounted switch. The diagram I posted shows how to re-wire things assuming you're changing the entire column.

Get another column. There is a NOS one for sale on Ebay right now for $150. That is a steal price plus you get all new parts.

The electrical part of that switch may be had from Bug suppliers as it also was used on 70 models where the wires are directly connected with he switch , I would also check the starter as mentioned in the other posts it may be the culprit of continuous running . Yes if the key and cylinder come out you do need to replace , that part , there is a thread on rekeying your cylinder , fairly easy , just watch out for the little springs getting away. My $.02...

Jack /Jaxdream

Pull out the plastic electrical portion of your "broken" switch.
Typically that is the culprit.
Its a POS design, same one used throughout all sorts of VW cars.

You can use the later one (its all you will get from a supplier anyways) in the early stock. You have to dremel off the tab to make it fit...compare the two and you will see.

No need to change the whole column...just extra work that is not worth the effort.

Rich

Or you can fix the switch (which probably has nothing to do with your starter problem) by fishing the bottom piece for the tumbler & JB welding it back on the tumbler. Look for the link to my rekeying thread (in my sig) where I have pics of the switch.

Great ideas and info- thanks guys.

I tried a known good starter and the issue persists. The starter isn't actually being sent a signal to start- it's just getting constant power. So I thought it was possibly the relay board, wiring or the ignition switch in the column. Since the column switch already had a bad lock in it- I figure it's a great opportunity to get that repaired. If that doesn't work fix the starter- at least it fixes the lock so it's not a waste of time.

I definitely don't want to go through the trouble of replacing the entire column, or spending any money- so I'll start by uncovering my '72 and double checking to see if it has the same style switch- if so I'll just swap them out.

The '72 is currently a parts car that I'd really like to bring to life at some point- and if I do that- I plan to completely re-wire it. At that point I'll switch the columns.

Thanks again guys- I'll post and let everyone know how it goes.

follow the yellow wire from the starter to the relay board, then to the ignition switch to see where to contant power exists.

Power goes from the battery to the ignition switch via a red wire, then back out to the starter via a yellow wire.
Both wires can be accessed at the front firewall just before they enter the tunnel, or pull up the rug and you can uunwrap the harness at the shifter area to check the wires with a volt meter.

I use sewing needles and stick them all the way through the middle of the wires to enable you to check the wire with a volt meter...keep the sewing needles from touching ground while you do this...the wires are hot.

Rich

I've also got an early steering cloumn/switch adn I think I'm just going to replace the column with the later model. My switch is messed up, as well as my turn signal switch, and the steering wheel bearings are worn. I will probably be working on this in a couple months or so, I'll try and take good notes on the wiring. The wiring diagrams in the service manual for 1970 aren't so great as I recall.

-Tony

Well my "72" has a later column in it- not surprised, somebody already did a mountain of upgrades and customizations to this car.

So maybe I'll just replace the whole column in my 70....

Lennies914 has a column for sale in the classifieds with a switch and everything! It is just a plug and play item!!

Lennies Classified Add See Post #2

Still working on getting my ignition replaced- I wired up the late model switch just to see if that was the issue and it wasn't. So I replaced the relay board and that solved the stater constant power issue.

Now I just have to finish switching the column to the late model style.

On a side note- now my headlights don't work. They come up- brights work, but normal doesn't. I replaced the headlamp switch but that isn't helping.....weird. More tracing- never fun

Larry Hubby-

Do you have a diagram (or anyone else for that matter) of the Turn Signal and Wiper / Washer pin-outs? (I just have the column section of wiring- not the harness plug in end) I can't read what's what on there- I can only make out a couple of the pin out numbers- so I can get it wired up with the diagram you posted.

THANKS!