I'm in the process of checking the lift of the new cams I purchased from Jake. I would like to verify that I have the dial indicator positioned correctly to check the lift. Is this correct?

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-- Rob

It's pretty good. Can't really tell because your two pictures are nearly 180* apart, which means it's essentially the same perspective. Take two pictures 90* apart (on from the 'front' and one from the 'left').

See....

Why are you checking this?

......................I would suggest the following.....1) Rig up an entirely different way to mount and locate the dial indicator.( a c-clamp to the D.I. base and head or fins.).OR use the intake manafold studs for the plate/ D.I. location...2). you want to have ALL the hold down nuts for the rocker arm shaft studs, torqued properly.(with out your plate possably distorting alignment of R.A shaft.3). INSTALL and tighten the adjuster nuts.4) determine how you will measure the cam-@ .020- or @.050 ths...and ensure the D.I. has complete travel..(plus enought extra to keep tension on the guage/dial.)., from completely open to closed...and of course the 50% lift/rocker arm alignment completed...........................murray

Thanks guys. I'll realign the DI to be more parallel with the valve. The plate isn't interferring with the RA, but I'll check another location for the plate.

-- Rob

Installing one of Jake's complete cam kit.

-- Rob

Aligning the dial indicator is a PITA. You have my sympathy.

Thanks for the sympathy... I've got ALL day to get the measurements. I'll take more pics...

-- Rob

Yup, keep 'em coming. Remember, 90* apart.

You need to keep the indicator follower perpendicular (square in 2 directions) to the retainer....it is square to the valve. Eyeballing it is close enuff. For what you are doing the cosine error you'll get is insignificant.

After a hard day working, here's the pics with the dial indicator on the heads.

First shot

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Second shot

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Here's a shot at half the lift, checking the position of the adjustor and the valve.

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So, does anyone see any glaring problems/issues?

-- Rob

Yeah, your pushrod is WAAAAAAY too short. The adjuster screw is nowhere near in line with the valve at half lift. Looks to me to be about 15* off or so, and it should be nearly 0*.

Did you clearance your rocker arms for the longer swivel adjusters?
Just curious.

No, I'm using the standard 1.7l rocker arms. Can you explain what is needed?

-- Rob

So the valve and the adjuster screw should be exactly in line with each other?
Does the beginning shots look correct?
In Jake's valve train geometry he mentions shims for the rocker arms, would this be necessary for this installation?

Do you have any pics showing the correct 1/2 lift position?

-- Rob

Yes they should be in line. Did you get new pushrods? Did you make your own?

I believe you need to clearance somewhere in neighborhood of 0.150" so that you get the proper geometry.
There are way more knowledgeable people here than me who know this without searching.

Jule

Here's a sample pic. It's not the clearest, and I can't remember if this is set perfectly at half lift, or just close. But you can see the valve and the adjuster are pretty much in line.

I have new push rods and I purchased the adjustable push rod from Jake.

As rudedude suggested, should I clearance the rocker arms for the 911 swivel seats?

-- Rob

Did you get the rocker arms from Jake? If so they should already be clearanced.

You'll need to back the adjuster screw nearly till it stops, and then check half lift alignment.

No, I did not get the rocker arms from Jake. If they need to be clearanced, how much material should be removed? Can a local machinist tackle this?

-- Rob

So you are trying to make a set of pushrods the correct length?

Yep...

OK, after doing more reseach I found that I need to deck 0.060" off of the face of the 1.7 rocker arms, can I just sand this down myself or do I have take it to a machinist?

-- Rob

That depends on you. It is possible to do it yourself.

I got the rocker arms back from the machinist after he took 0.060" off. I mounted a rocker arm assembly and again tried to find the correct push rod length.
On the #1/#2 side the adjuster was all the way in. So should I put 0.030" shim underneath the rocker arm?
I measured the lift at .427"/26.97cm - intake and .413"/26.90cm - exhaust. I know I will need to recalibrate if I add the shim, but does this sound reasonable?

Here's a shot at half lift.
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Here's a shot showing the alignment.
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On the #3/#4 side there was some adjustability, but what is the minimum amount needed? Two turns, three?

Do I have to shim both heads the same? I know I have to shim the rocker arms the same on each head.
I only measured the intake lift at .440"/27.07cm. Again, does this sound reasonable?


Here's a shot at half lift.
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-- Rob

Are you going to use Co-Mo or aluminum pushrods?

Rocker angle is MUCH better!

Remove some more material from the intake rockers. It's not uncommon to need to remove a little bit more. I usually just do it on a grinding wheel. You don't need much adjustment, but you do need to make sure the swivel feet can actually swivel. If they're bumping the rocker at some point, or if they don't move at all, then they'll get destroyed pretty quick.

Rob, use a file or a grinder to get some clearance.

Wonder if you actually thought this was easy when you watched others do it. Kinda justifys the labor charges huh?

What method have you chosen to cut the push rods?

For what you are doing +/- .001 makes a difference.

In regards to max lift you have achieved "what does the cam card say"?

.427 is a pretty whimpy cam. IMO.

...................well..... iF THE TOTAL lift IS JUST A MISERABLE...427ths in...that is why the standard /aluminum pushrods seem to be/to him/ the correct length, for a half lift alignment check....for a crummy .010ths to get it perfect....you gotta question wheather it,s worth the trouble to make a "perfect set of pushrods....and /because the lift is VERY close to a stock camshaft....and while not stated,(..F.I. or carbs) the duration cam /crank check, may well be suited for a F.I. stock engine......this cam is NOT GOING to have radical lobes/ramps....QUESTION...show us the degree wheel mounted to the crankshaft...thanks.....................................murray