Saw this on aircooled.net. I have no idea if this would be a good idea to use on the Type IV motor or not.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewprodu...027&cartid=

Ideas? Thoughts? I like the idea of not needing to tap the case to full flow the motor, but would this be usefull? Or would it create more problems than it solves?

Thanks!

-Josh2

That's a T1 case....

True...

I guess I should re-phrase my question.

Can something -like- this be done on the Type IV case? If not, why?

-Josh2

Not a good idea on any case. IIRC, to use this adapter, the relief plunger must be removed. That's why they say it can only be used on dual relief cases. I also seem to recall that the plug sizes are different between T1 and T4.

Some T4 cases are dual relief, but the secondary relief is nowhere near full size. Even if the adapter could be used, the engine would be left with no oil relief. The end result would be blown out galley plugs.

When going full flow, the galley plugs are removed and replaced with threaded plugs so they don't blow out.

You can full flow a T4, just not like that.

It's on the internet, so it must be good .....................

The Cap'n

I understand the standard concept of full flowing, re-routing the direct pumped oil to the cooler then plumbing it back into the galley downstream of the pump. I was just wondering if a concept like this one would be effective or useful on a T4?

Just wondering if the thought of full flow without taping (read: machine work) was possible.

Apparently not.

-Josh2

Sorry, your referenced picture threw me off and I misunderstood what you were really asking.

Yes, 'full flowing' a stock motor is as simple as blocking the spring loaded ball valve in the oil filter console. Still requires some machine work, but not nearly as complicated as some other solutions.

how would that be done. cork

I've done it before by forcing out the steel ring that retains the ball and spring, then welding an aluminum plug in their place.

...or pressing in a tight fitting aluminum plug followed by peening on 4 sides of the hole to avoid distortion from welding.

Click to view attachment

Theoretically, you could also drill on the other side of the ball, tap and install an M8 set screw (a bolt would hit the cooler) to keep the ball from rising off it's seat.

That method works but I will never use the stock type 4 pump for a performance engine.

The best performance solution is to tap the case for a 90* NPT street elbow and use the 26mm or 30mm type one oil pump with the full flow cover, remote filter adapter and modified engine mount.

Here's my mount
I used to make these for $50 +core but I bumped up the price because they're such a PITA to do one at a time.
Maybe I would do run on them once a year (minimum 5) for that price if I had enough interest .

ok, I see the pump part, but were do you tap into the case. cork

By removing the pressed in plug on the case you can thread it for -8 and get oil back into the motor. Having a brain fade as to which plug to connect oil ine. Maybe upper plug ?????

This how Paul did his. mine is very similair to both methods pictured.

I don't really like those brass pipes, they tend to break right at the root of the thread. BTDT

Me also no like the aluminum pump cover as the gears are always are trying to drill through the cover...oil pressure drops...but at least the filter will catch the shavings.
Look at an old type 1 stock pump cover, now imagine if it was aluminum....

But that just me....

I don't get it.
What's the deal with replacing the factory designed oil passages with a series of sharp right angle bends and dash 8 lines to an oil filter/cooler several feet or farther away from the pump.
Seems like a significant pressure drop is occurring there.
Everyone seems to be concerned with low oil pressures and then they do things like this.
I don't get it.
If you want to reduce oil pressure losses and HP losses when installing a remote filter and cooler you should be using smooth bends and -10 or larger lines.
When I build a race engine I pay a LOT of attention to using radius fittings, as well as radiusing corners in the oil pump and any other transitions. For oil coolers in the front of the car I use -12 hoses to avoid pressure drops and increase oil volume. A lot of fittings have smaller openings than the lines they are being connected to. I drill them out to avoid a pressure drop there too.

I don't totally agree, even the 3/8 NPT is larger passages than stock and the loss from the street elbow is negligible. Again stock has more sharp bends.
I've been using this set-up in customers, friends and my cars since the late 80's without a single failure. Sure radius bends will flow better but I've never seen the need.

My Berg type one 2.0 engine has this FF system, was built by me in 1991, has lasted 3 cars now. over 70K, did 15's in a steel body car and now it's pulling all my shite around in this bus.