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Tom_T
So I crawled under the 914 last weekend & noticed a tin in the first pic on the bottom of the L bank rear (drivers side), but nothing but an empty screw hole on the R bank bottom-rear in the second pic - is that a missing tin similar to the L side???? confused24.gif

L Bank rear underside tins:

Click to view attachment

L Bank rear underside tins:

Click to view attachment

If so, can somebody post a pic of that R tin - either in or out of a 914, so I can see what I'm looking for?

There's obviously a lot of work to clean this engine/trans & tins up & repainted or powder-coated for my resto!
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Sleepin
I must be tired...I can't recognize those pics...but hopefully this helps.


Off of Pelican.

IPB Image

IPB Image
Tom_T
QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 1 2010, 10:13 PM) *

I must be tired...I can't recognize those pics...but hopefully this helps.


Off of Pelican.

IPB Image

IPB Image


Maybe #59 is the one I have in top photo, & #62 missing in bottom pic of my first post? confused24.gif
Sleepin
Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.

I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. wink.gif wavey.gif
dr914@autoatlanta.com
QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) *

Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.

I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. wink.gif wavey.gif

the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping.
Cap'n Krusty
How is 10 bucks PLUS shipping cheaper than 20 bucks shipped?

The Cap'n
gopack
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 2 2010, 09:08 AM) *

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) *

Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.

I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. wink.gif wavey.gif

the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping.



He said easiest but NOT cheapest! I figure that if a USPS flat rate box is used, the shipping should be about 10 bucks anyways!
tat2dphreak
agree.gif about $20 either way.
Sleepin

If you just want easy, pay me $2000 and I will fly out and install it myself! (that way you won't even have to think about it) biggrin.gif
Tom_T
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 2 2010, 07:08 AM) *

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) *

Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.

I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. wink.gif wavey.gif

the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping.


Thanx George - have Carrie put it that pending order stuff for me, along with a rear plasti-chrome bumper tow-eye plug! One less tin I need to Resto & Repaint/powder! biggrin.gif
Thanx!
Tom_T
QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) *

Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.

I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. wink.gif wavey.gif


Thanx Sleepin & all!

I agree it's important, but it probably got knocked loose when hit in the rear back in 5/85, and just never noticed it before.

I'm in the process of stripping to shell & getting a body shop lined up to media-blast, repair accident & rust damage, prime/paint - so I have a way to go on this sucker! dry.gif

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

blink.gif
Drums66

the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping.
[/quote]

If the road goes thru Atlanta....you're sure to get the right
piece! bye1.gif or take your chances?
BarberDave
smilie_pokal.gif


Tom: I am missing # 4 in the pic., found out last summer . I got a replacement have yet to install ,probbly this weekend.Interested in oil temp after install,should go down a little. Better air flow? Dave slap.gif
Tom_T
QUOTE(BarberDave @ Apr 2 2010, 02:52 PM) *

smilie_pokal.gif


Tom: I am missing # 4 in the pic., found out last summer . I got a replacement have yet to install ,probbly this weekend.Interested in oil temp after install,should go down a little. Better air flow? Dave slap.gif


Yes - better cooling, as all the VW & Porsche air/oil cooled engines use tins designed to direct the cooling fan & other airflow where it needs to be to best cool that particular engine T-1, 2, 3, 4, etc.

confused24.gif
Dave - did you ever find a voltmeter donation for the center console that you're restoring for proceeds to go to your handicapped charity?

If not - guys & gals - Barber Dave needs a voltmeter for 914 center console he's restoring - Mark Heard & I already donated an extra clock & OT gauge we had respectively. poke.gif

So step up & search your parts stash for one you can donate for Dave's efforts here - he cleans up & restores 914 center consoles for Teeners here, then donates the proceeds to his charity! smilie_pokal.gif

Help him out!
icon_bump.gif
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(Tom_T @ Apr 1 2010, 10:10 PM) *

So I crawled under the 914 last weekend & noticed a tin in the first pic on the bottom of the L bank rear (drivers side), but nothing but an empty screw hole on the R bank bottom-rear in the second pic - is that a missing tin similar to the L side???? confused24.gif

L Bank rear underside tins:

Click to view attachment

L Bank rear underside tins:

Click to view attachment

If so, can somebody post a pic of that R tin - either in or out of a 914, so I can see what I'm looking for?

There's obviously a lot of work to clean this engine/trans & tins up & repainted or powder-coated for my resto!
Sorry Tom - couldn't help myself!
Is that the best yu can do for spider webs? Geez, I have 3 on leashes & six more with flea collars! Don'y think Spidey lives here - ask Ferg!
Pat
dry.gif

Tom_T
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Apr 2 2010, 05:28 PM) *

Sorry Tom - couldn't help myself!
Is that the best yu can do for spider webs? Geez, I have 3 on leashes & six more with flea collars! Don'y think Spidey lives here - ask Ferg!
Pat
dry.gif


BTW all y'all - is it safe to clean the engine & trans case, suspension & shocks, etc. from years of oil leaks & road grime with POR Marine Clean, or is that too strong for the paint, aluminum & magnesium alloys, etc.?? ... &/or other safer cleaner suggestions?? confused24.gif

OK - OK - needles to say (pun intended) - other priorities Pat, like getting rockers off (good at both longs! smile.gif ), & trying to strip to shell & get pix for bodywork estimates, etc. Getting close to doing a post in garage for SoCal body shops to give me estimates (& McMark if not too much $$ to ship 2 shells & travel up there to Napa during process - as it's about = NYC - Atlanta distance-wise).

Engine/Trans will come out as unit at my mechanic for refresh, while I do tins, etc., & while this shell-roller & ex-racer donor shell go to TBD shop for paint & body!

If I ever get any CW entries on this 914 when it's done, then I should at least get a smilie_pokal.gif for "resurrection from the dead" from where it's come! Just pulled inner door seals on both door & found bad rust on the bottom skins above the seal (seal covered it), the donor pass is clean, but driver is also holed there but not as bad - so now I need to find a local late L door that's clean!

Oddly enough - it appears from peeking behind the inner panels on this 8/72 &# MY 2L - that I have a new 3rd door type on it - a "Light Late"!! huh.gif
It appears to be the late regulator & inner framework, but lacking the side impact reinforcing bars welded between the outer skin & inner frame (I can see them on the 74 donor shell's doors & know what to look for & where, but nada!) ~ & no CW's, they were never lightened by anyone removing them & doors were original to the vehicle! dry.gif
... probably just one of those early-73 MY anomalies which extended to the first 1-2,000 cars built! blink.gif

BTW - with all the El Nino rains - we're having a killer Black Widow season out here, & I was almost attacked by a humongous one when looking for the hide-a-key under the Honda my daughter drives everyday - to get it's Alt. replaced!!!! yikes.gif
... not sure which of those are "active" or not - so I shoot with the zoom when I can & approach with caution! blink.gif

PS - this is why I got such a giggle out of Steve G's prolific apologies over how "dirty" his Sahara's engine & underside was!!! I mean look what I've got to get into shape - even rust on the cylinder heads' fins!!!
... don't know whether to lol-2.gif or hissyfit.gif or blowup.gif
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