I was just curious how you guys clean the shavings out of the case after drilling and tapping. Anyone got a good way to keep it contained during the process? I've always used high pressure water to flush them afterwards, and I've never had a problem, but I certainly don't want have a first time problem either.

I take it that it's apart?

Blow it out with air, degrease more than once and then power wash blowing out the galleys.
If you don't own a power washer do a late night run at the local carwash.

Yep, its apart. Thats pretty much how I do it. I have a very high pressure nozzle with hot water. Just looking for an easier, less messy way. I've thought about filling the area of the galley below where your machining with grease or vaseline to make a dam, then blow it back through the threads you just created, vaseline and all.

If you don't get hosed you didn't spend enough time power washing it.
Full rain suit works for me.

Lots of time in the parts washer. Then a few cans of brake cleaner.

Well, I must be doing it right, cause I was soaked from head to toe! There is one galley that comes out in every direction. No way to hide from it!

Just make sure the wife/girlfriend is busy that day...

Click to view attachment
(taken from a much earlier post)

...............AFTER tapping the/a / galley, use a wet dry shop /VACCUM CLEANER to suck out the aluminum filings.....Then when you pressure wash the crankcase there will be fewer shavings to blow out..... and I would suggest that you use aeroquip or Earls/ ALUMINUM...threaded plugs.(they will expand and contract) with the crankcase better than steel plugs....to consider ...murray

Aluminum and brass plugs are garbage, good luck getting them back out.
Do you really think a 3/8NPT steel plug, cranked in way harder than an AL plug ever could be, is going to leak?

I tried AL plugs..... once.
I tried brass...... once.
Both sucked

Done this PITA job hundreds of times, Type 1 and 2. I don't like doing it twice.
Use steel plugs, available everywhere.

..........So cranking in a steel plug...."way harder" is a good thing?.,additional stress points all over and around the crankcase?....there is something called TEFLON sealer. available as a tape or liquid.

I've always used steel with no problems.

Teflon sealer is WHY you crank them in too tight.
Using teflon will crack the type 1 case for sure.
I use Locktite 640.

This is really old news.... I learned this stuff way back in the late 80's, early 90's.....

I did the galley install, looked at many postings and saw that sealant, never teflon tape, and steel was the way to go. Raby recommends steel, thats what I used.

...................Locktite is a good product to use also....BUT...just because , and,by using teflon....does not REQUIRE you to crank them in "too tight".(and crack the crankcase),,(,which by the way I do not believe,.)... you could do with an aluminum plug.....easier than with a steel plug"cranked in "way harder". Be honest about this ...you use steel plugs because they are available, around the corner at the hardware store....The aeroquip /Earls plugs have to be ordered/ inventoried and are 4-5 times more expensive.....you are just trying to justify what you use......which is OK with me....just don't blow smoke in my direction over this issue....and frankly I really don't give a rats ass what you use.

Hey! This is my thread, so be nice please.

You do realize that you're getting pissy over a bung plug

I use pretty much the same procedures as the rest vacuum. blow, rinse with soapy water, flush with enough water to fill a lake, blw dry and use a bore brush, and swabs from gun cleaning kit. final wipe with brake cleaner.
Steel plugs with Raby recommended sealant. I forget which one. I think stinky green pastey one.

Here's a pretty good link to the galley plug repair issue:

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/page10.html