Well I bought my 914 Sunday. Started work on it today. Let me first tell you that the rear deck lid was pushed back so the engine cover wasn't closed all the way. Also the throttle was stuck and one of the carbs was wide open. So, subsequently rain poored in through said wide open carb because one of the wing nuts that held the aircleaner on was missing. Drained the oil today and the first quart was pure water the rest a nasty grey mix and at the end mostly oil. There was no signs of rust in the water or oil as I believe this occured recently because the accident that bent and pushed the rear decklid happened recently and the car didn't sit too long. Anyway, I'm open to suggestions, I suspect I should probably tear the engine down and rebuild. But if there is any other option (besides dropping in a different motor) I'd love to hear it? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Josh

Drain oil, fill it with kerosene or deisel fuel. Let sit overnight, drain, refill with oil, start and run. Check oil again for signs of water, and repeat as necessary. If it doesn't work, your no worse off. If it does (and it will), your miles better off.

you will be fine with that suggestion. I am partial to diesel.

Water may not necessarily kill a motor... I'm sure you crapped your pants when you drained the oil though..

I did in fact my pants! But luckily I was wearing Oops I Crapped My Pants as always. But seriously many thanks you guys, I can't wait to try this. I love this forum, it's already been helpful beyond what I expected. I'll keep you posted.

When I 1st got my car it was carbed and had the same problem. I did the diesel trick..... no problems for 6 years.

And yes, I was shocking to see a gallon of water come out 1st.

Can you turn the engine over by hand? If it is not seized, i'd not be too worried, until you had good reason to be worried.
And I'd suggest filling the cylinders that let the water in with diesel, K1, or some sort of penetrating oil, as the rings are probably rusted to the cylinders.

Zach

Yeah, the engine turns. You're right about the worry thing. I'm gonna fill the whole thing with diesel and let it sit over night. Thanks a bunch everyone.

Relieved to hear someone else has been through it. This is quite the support group we have here. Thanks all.

Thank you very much for the solution. I poured the diesel in today, about 1&3/4 gallons. First I let some run threw the drain and screen hole. This didn't fill it up to the top though. Should I add more? Or did I add to much? Also, what oil weight should I be using? Anything special? Thanks again.

Before you start it, pull the spark plugs and turn the motor with the starter. Disconnect the coil first. after it turns, try to blow out the cylinders with compressed air. Put it back together and try to start it. If there is any water in the cylinder, you can hydraulically lock up the engine and possibly bend a valve. After you drain the diesel and put new oil in, be prepared to change the oil again to get any left over diesel and water out.

I would run inexpensive oil as, yes you are going to drain shortly to get remainder of water and diesel out. After that I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50. There are a lot of guys on here that run Brad Penn oil. Either will be fine.

All right, drained diesel today. Changed filter,added fresh oil and ran it off the starter(carbs off, need a rebuild) for 1 minute intervals about 5 or 6 times, resting the starter a few minutes in between. All seems good, turned over easy, no water came out of heads, could feel air puffing out of spark plug holes (or whatever they're called) gonna run a compression test tomorrow and drain oil then add synthetic. Thanks again for the help guys, can't wait to ebuild carbs. Also think I need a new fuel pump as no fuel was pumping out of fuel line while cranking. Problem is I can't find the bugger, Haynes manual shows where it's located in an aweful photo with no real reference point. It's a 74 2.0 if someone knows where it may be. Thanks., Tara

I'd do a couple oil changes right way with a short operating time inbetween (several miutes of idleing) you dont want a lot of engine loads with oil / water mix, as water is not lubriaction to the engine.

then drive it till fully warmed up for a while, that will boil off the water that remains.


do this right away, worst thing is to put of the reapir as stuff will rust bad if you let it go

Yeah you're right, I was gonaa change it again tonight but called out on a couple tows and am beat now. Will change oil and run again in morning, crappy part is I don't have function carbs to really run it.

Fuel pump may be under car below gas tank. Check relay in engine compartment relay board.

The engine needs to be warmed up before you perform the compression test. I'd wait until you rebuild the carbs and get the issue with the fuel pump figured out. Otherwise, the information you receive from the test will not be accurate. You're on the right path. It'll just take a little more time.

If it is still in the stock location it is on the passenger side in front of the rear wheel up inside on the inner wall. Be sure to change the fuel filter while you are at it.

Thanks for all the input guys! You guys are the !

id get your engine running ASAP !!!!!! you need to get the motor running so it can heat up and boil off the water. now that yoiu have cranked it over, the oil/water mix is now in contact with you bearings, crank, cam etc. and it will begin corroding them too. you NEED to get the engine fully warmed up so the water is cooked out.
dont delay any more, get it running today. it will only make maters worse now that the enigne has been cranked over becuase the water is now every place.

Yes, I guess if the water did not have too much time in there it won't end up looking like this motor;
Click to view attachment

But, I'd say that tearing the top end off is a prudent thing to do.

It isn't too much work and that, combined with an oil change should get most of it out.

Thanks for the tip. Do I need to drop the motor to remove the heads?

Yes.