I have a 73 914 and I need to find the ballast resistor to check it. Is it in the plastic casing where the spade connector is?

Also, I am just learning how to tune it, as it sat for 6 months while I completed all the fuel pump hose replacements.

I know the FPR should be at 29psig

What is a good setting for the points? plugs and dwell/timing?

The car is running really rich. All the MPS/ECU and harnesses check out electrically

I am replacing all the relays as the cheap ones from China expand and go dead when the engine warms up.

I do most of my own work and just bought a timing light, dwell meter, fuel pressure gauge and vacuum gauge.

I have a vacuum leak where the decel valve goes into the MPS, but it is not terrible.

I know the FPR has to be set, but could that be the major reason for the rich when hot reaction?

Also, do I need a flow meter for the throttle body to get this really idling and running more to a lean side?

I am way out of whack, but it runs and needs wise TLC.

Just joined!

This is my 6th 914 2.0, but I never did tuneups. Have rebuilt several short blocks, but always left the adjustments to others. Now the costs are too high and I really should know this stuff better.

Thanks, any who respond!

JPL

Most of everything you described is beyond my wrench right now, but glad to see that you are on number 6 and I am sure it will be purring in no time. The masters will chime in here shortly and you will be well informed I promise.

If you have a ballast resistor, it will be inline with the CHT.

Point gap is set at .017, but is only a starting place. Fine tune with dwell meter to 46 (+/- 4)degrees. Then adjust timing. Remove and plug both vacuum hoses at distributor, then set according to spec (27dbtdc).

Use your vacuum gauge on the MPS. It you can see it leaking down, there is your rich running problem.

You set the throrttle position switch with an OHM meter.

Rich when hot could indicate a bad cht. It should read about 2500ohms when cold, and less than 400 when hot.


BTW, Welcome! Good first post!

Curt is right on. I would only add: On your ECU there is a knob on the top corner. This is the "idle" mixture comtrol. Clockwise is rich and CC is lean. There are 22 clicks on this knob. If in doubt go to the middle (11 clicks) to begin. This should be set along with the air inlet (idle) controll on the throttle body. Small adjustments at a time and wait for the engine to normalize between adjustments. You have a decel valve. Hmmmm. If it leaks toss it. I threw mine in the trash and only experience small popping during deceleration when it is cold. Otherwise it is fine. Good luck! Oh, BTW

THANK YOU ALL!

I have a new head temp sensor installed. The MPR is good, as there is no leak.

The ECU is in the middle of the click settings.

I get my dwell meter in 2 days.

I will set the points and see if that helps, then get the dwell meter on it and go from there.

I think I will check the throttle valve switch. Seems easy from the Pelican site.

I am going through hell on relays. The Uro and other ones made in China stink!

I found 4 Wehrle's and bought them, but I may be forced to get 4 new German ones from George in AutoAtlanta.

His #1 guy, Steve Gaglione and I go back to the 70's when we both had 73 2.0's and PCA autocrossed all over NY/NJ/PA

Then I moved to STL and got my second 73 2.0 in Guards Red

This 6th one is Signal Orange

THANKS!

John

NO DECEL VALVE ON A 73 2.0? WOW!