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neattouch648
Hey everyone!
I'm new to the forum, i recently acquired a 1973 porsche 914 from a guy here in town that was sick of it sitting in his yard. Its definitely rusted and needs some work but he parked it in 1991 and left it sitting there. so almost 20 years later i picked it up and now am attempting to get it running. of course fuel was left in it so it dried up and turned solid. Now i need to replace all of the fuel lines in the car headbang.gif but it shouldn't be that hard. Does anyone have any advice on how to get to them?
also advice on how to clean the injectors and what else should i do?

Thanks!!

bcaschera
what engine is it? I may have some extra 1.7 injectors i can sell for cheap.
TheCabinetmaker
First, welcome to the world. Second, spend some time reading as much of the 1400 plus pages on this forum as you can get thru. You'll find all the info you need and some you don't want! Ask q's for what you can't find
neattouch648
Its the 1.7 i think. however i was hoping to resurrect the old injectors. Is that even possible? haha
72 2.0
I am restoring a 914 that has sat for 20+ years at the moment as well and will need to inspect/replace the fuel lines as well. I have a thread on the club website and there are 4 or 5 other people on there at present bring cars out of storage and each thread has good information. One suggestion I got was to also check the fuel pump seals. Other suggestion I have gotten are to check the brakes and all of the rubber seals on the car and the engine. As stated by others read as much as you can and when you can't find an answer ask.
orange914
QUOTE(neattouch648 @ Apr 6 2010, 11:08 AM) *

Its the 1.7 i think. however i was hoping to resurrect the old injectors. Is that even possible? haha

you can take them to a fuel injection specalty shop and have them cleaned, it's the best way. i personally have had great luck (removing them first), put some techron additive in the top then stand them up in a glass pan with techron soaking the tips. worked good for me

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914rrr
If the fuel lines running through the body are clogged much at all, you'd be better off replacing them with new stainless steel lines, available on the vendor forum, along with the grommets. I used them on one of my teeners and highly recommend them.
TROJANMAN
advice: Spend the extra money on the "nice" jackstands
Make sure your AAA is paid to date
Tom_T
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jcambo7
Tangerine Racing Products (C F R-Tangerine Racing Products, LLC - Products and Services) for 914s
sells stainless steel fuel lines for about 150. They are already pre bent and everything. It me about an hour to replace mine.
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neattouch648
Thanks for all of your help!!! i appreciate it. I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible (since i'm in college and my funds are VERY limited) so i was thinking of bending my own lines and all that. My question is, under the fuel tank the lines go into a like enclosed area and i can't find where they keep going although i haven't had much time to look. any advice on how to get them all out/in and all that?
Thanks
rick 918-S
welcome.png The fuel lines run through the center tunnel. They are plastic and after a car sits 20 years they degrade. You can probably bend your own but you would be money ahead buying a line kit from Tangerine Racing Products (C F R-Tangerine Racing Products, LLC - Products and Services)

There are some things that are just not worth skimping on. the fuel lines have been the cause of many lost 914's.

Welcome the madness assimilate.gif
jcambo7
QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Apr 6 2010, 08:29 PM) *

welcome.png The fuel lines run through the center tunnel. They are plastic and after a car sits 20 years they degrade. You can probably bend your own but you would be money ahead buying a line kit from Tangerine Racing Products (C F R-Tangerine Racing Products, LLC - Products and Services)

There are some things that are just not worth skimping on. the fuel lines have been the cause of many lost 914's.

Welcome the madness assimilate.gif

agree.gif Rick is right. The plastic lines after 20 years crack and can cause a fire in the center tunnel. And jt's link goes to pelican parts tech article that shows you how to replace the lines and includes pics. I used the article to replace mine. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105565 This is a thread of someone currently replacing his fuel lines with the Tangerine pre bent SS lines. THe pics should help with where they go and start. Some question's you might have also may be answered in the thread.
bcaschera
How rude of me welcome.png and it is true what they say... pay a little more now save a lot later. A LOT later !! headbang.gif
BMXerror
I resurrected a car that was sitting like that, though not quite for that long. My recommendation would be to replace anything that's rubber. That's an expensive proposition, I know, but there's only two systems that need to be done before you drive the car: fuel system and braking system.
I would also recommend the CFR stainless lines. WELL worth the money. And while you're in there just replace every rubber line in the fuel loop. It'll cost you maybe $60 in high pressure hose and some time cutting and clamping. Also, don't forget about the little round seals at the base of the injectors, where they meet the manifold.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...j_pg1.htm#item1
All in all you're looking at maybe $250 to get the fuel system tip top. Way cheaper than burning your new baby to the ground.
As far as the braking system goes, a set of braided stainless lines are absolutely awesome and won't cost you any more than the rubber ones. Rebuilt master cylinders get kinda pricey, but they sometimes pop up used or even newly rebuilt on our 'classifieds' section for cheaper. I got mine there for $180, never used. You may be able to do better. Rebuild all four calipers. It'll cost you about $20 bucks a piece, and they're easy to do. Take 'em apart, pull old, rotted rubber seals out, clean 'em good, put new rubber in, put 'em back together. And finally, don't forget to check the fluid reservoir for any leaks. And replacing the soft, low pressure lines that run from the reservoir to the master cylinder isn't a bad idea either. Although I never did it. headbang.gif
In addition, you may save yourself some grief by replacing the vacuum lines in the injection system; particularly from the plenum to the MPS, and the two small lines that go to the vacuum can on the distributor. Bringin' a car back to life, especially on a budget, can be a hell of a job, but it is very rewarding. And we'll help you out with any questions you have. If you want, you can even PM me and ask me direct. Hope this helps. Good luck, and welcome.png
Mark D.
neattouch648
Well, i'm pretty down now....i started cleaning the car out a little more and as i stepped on the passenger side floor my foot went all the way through sad.gif....upon further inspection of the car i realized that there is WAY too much rust to be able to save this body...the money i would spend on rebuilding the body would be much more than the car could ever hope to be worth. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled to see if i can find a new body. There is a guy close to where i live selling 2 cars, one complete with rust and the other just a stripped body with engine for 1000 bucks....i'm gonna go look at them and maybe i can get them to make this work! wish me luck!!!!
Gerrit
Al Meredith
If I was going to try and start an engine that has been sitting up like that I would remove the FI and install a Weber 32/36. Nobody likes that carb setup but, for ease of installation and ease of trouble shooting I don't think you can beat one. You can feed fuel with gravity and no need to sync. You can find them cheap here on 914 club, PPs and on www.thesamba.com .
neattouch648
I've decided that this is too much of a project for me to do right now especially since i'm a senior at New Mexico State and so i've decided to get rid of it. Anyone have an idea of how much its worth or how much i can sell it for? It has rust all around the rear end up but engine and tranny are great.
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