Hi Newbie here!
I have heard people upgrade their 914 front suspension with eailer 911 suspension, but how much of it do I swap?
Just the (2) A-arms with torsion bars? or do I need the Aluminum cross member to mount the A-arms to? or Can I mount the 911 A-arms to the 914 cross member? Do I need the 911 Spindles? Or will the 914 spindle will fit the 911 A_Arms? Anything else (yes, I'll be going with 5 lug pattern wheels later, then I guess the 911 Spindle s are must?).

Just how similar are between the 914 and the 911? (front suspensions?)
Also, are there much differences between the 911 models itself from 74 thru 89?


I've also bought a tow bar bracket for the 914. Could I also use it for towing an earlier 911 as well. Are the cross member the same width between the 914 & 911?

I'm currently trying to remove all the rust on the body of the car. Stripping most of the components and old stuff off as well.
Planning to build a daily drive, but weekend track car. Not looking to restore it back to original. Already build the engine from 1.8 to 2 liter (but not sure I have all the 2 liter sheet metal and parts?), and thinking of dropping a larger motor (may be a Subaru turbo, or a Porsche 6? Subie is looking to be more affordable)
So, right now, I'm prepare the body; looking for better and stiff suspension and brakes.
Also looked at a roll cage, then figure what I need for the power and transmission choice.

Thanks!

My head hurts thinking of all the possible combo's you could use.

To sum it up:

Yup, 911 "stuff" bolts right up to 914 unibody. Now for the thousand+ caveats:

Depends on what you want, just the 5lug or bigger brakes (which opens up another HUGE can of worms, I mean questions). If you'r looking for the 5lug, find an early 911T say from 1969-1973. Remove the struts along with ALL brake stuff like calipers, rotors/hubs, just leave them on the strut and swap it out with your 914. Bleed brakes and done.

Will also work with pretty much any 74-89 911, but cost goes up along with brake bias.

Your old 914 struts become nice boat anchors.

keep your 914 a-arms and shock inserts, ball joints, tie rods(unless you are doing the turbo upgrade)

the struts, hubs, brakes from the 911. the pre-74 911 struts accept the 914 strut inserts...

the pre 74 911 front end has 3" bolt spacing for the brakes... aka M-Caliper

the 74-89 uses 3.5" which is easily adaptable to the big boxster brake calipers. 74+ is also the hub-centric hubs.

Wow! thank you for the quick responds!

I prefer to go with newer 74-89 911 components, but they sure are expensive! Even when they are used.
I'm searching online and ebay for all the components.

BTW, No body has mentioned about the changing cross-member. Mostly, everybody had mentioned changing from A-arm out and up.
Does all 911 A-arms just bolt directly to the the 914 cross-memeber? or do I need the 911 (Aluminum - sounds light?) Cross member?


Thanks again for all the help.
I'm trying to get all the correct (and matching all the necessary parts). So, I don't have to go broke immediately.

Depends on how far you want to go with the "Conversion". You can simply swap out struts or if you really want, pull out cross member, A-arms etc and swap them all out as well. It all bolts up.

The 914 cross member is metal while the 911 is alum so there is a little wieght savings. The best setup I ever had on a 914 was from an 87' 911. I swaped it all out and loved it. Bigger rotors, calipers, light cross member, better torsion bars etc. But you'll have to do it all as 914 torsion bars are interchangible with 911 bars.

Kinda strut swap only or everything after that.

Just looked over at Autoatlanta's parts exploded view of various 911 suspension and notice the older (pre-73) have same steel cross member as the 914.
I do like the Alum X-member, because they do look tougher and may be lighter. Plus I hate all the rust on my car. (at least the Alum. X-member will not rust)

So, you are saying the A-arms are the same between the 911 and the 914? only the torsion bars are different? I could have just used my old A-arm and swapped out the torsion bars with the 911 bars, and they will fit?

If so, I just wasted some money on the 85' 911 A-arm, without the torsion bars.
I was in a hurry to bid before it ended.

I need to slow down and learn more about the components before go out and spend money.

Write down what you want to do and the parts you "think" you need and post to the board. The members here will help you with the right set up, which strut takes which insert and brakes that compliment front and rear. It's not rocket science but there are different choices to make and running it by the guys who know will save you time and money down the road.

I bought every part I could from Eric Shea - PMB Performance and he advised me for complimentary parts that I picked up on Pelican.

NO.

The A-Arms are different BECAUSE the torsion bars are different.
If you keep the same A-arms you must use the same ball joints as the struts.
(You must _always_ use the same ball joints as the struts.)

There _are_ pre-'74 S-caliper 911 struts, but you have to look carefully.

Strut choice will dictate what dampers you can run.

DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT TO DO FIRST.

then shop parts.

I used 3" 911T struts that take Bilstein strut inserts. Brembo front calipers and 914 calipers on back. 5 lug 911 hubs on front and PMB modified 5 lug on back. Front rotors are 914-6, rears are 914 drilled for 5 lug. 19mm master cylinder. New tie rods and ball joints. Everything is new or rebuilt by Eric except the struts. Not the cheapest way to do it but reasonably priced and should give really good performance for a street car. Should handle the bigger wheels and tires of the flared car and higher hp motor in the future.