bought 1975 914 2.0 6 months ago- recently had dash gauges refurbed with LED lighting, ; went to put in new center console(from 914 Appearance and Performance)(car had one originally-some one took it out!) - wired everything up yesterday, but found the gray wires that should power the lights when switch is on do not have voltage!- no power - so the question is where do i look? at the light switch? or somewhere else- i also have no power at the license plate lights- is this on the same fuse and circuit??- I can hook them up temp. to the Red/white which comes on with the ignition, but this is no the long term solution.
Any Ideas?
Full Version: Dash Gauge Lights
License plate light runs through the trunk light. Not sure about the gauge lights.
In the 74+ cars at least, the engine bay light and the license plate lights and the center console instrument lights all run off the same fuse. Check your fuses; they can look OK but still be popped. Pull them out, one at a time, and if the metal bits fall off of one when you pull it out it was popped.
In my case, the body shop that fixed the rear panel damage had wired the license plate lights backwards, so the "hot" wire was grounding through the housing of the light. Could very easily be something similar in your case.
--DD
In my case, the body shop that fixed the rear panel damage had wired the license plate lights backwards, so the "hot" wire was grounding through the housing of the light. Could very easily be something similar in your case.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 16 2010, 11:07 AM) 
In the 74+ cars at least, the engine bay light and the license plate lights and the center console instrument lights all run off the same fuse. Check your fuses; they can look OK but still be popped. Pull them out, one at a time, and if the metal bits fall off of one when you pull it out it was popped.
In my case, the body shop that fixed the rear panel damage had wired the license plate lights backwards, so the "hot" wire was grounding through the housing of the light. Could very easily be something similar in your case.
--DD
just took a look- the fuse is blown for that circuit, - a white one- and looking in trunk there is one of those white plastic connectors that leads to the trunk lights,it has been shorted out- it is a double- but melted into one solid piece of plastic !! looks like one of the wires was pulled out and touched the bottom of the trunk, shorting out the circuit, hope i can figure out what is what- probably the problem if they are on the same fuse / circuit!.
phil
QUOTE(Philip W. @ Apr 16 2010, 08:14 AM)
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 16 2010, 11:07 AM)
In the 74+ cars at least, the engine bay light and the license plate lights and the center console instrument lights all run off the same fuse. Check your fuses; they can look OK but still be popped. Pull them out, one at a time, and if the metal bits fall off of one when you pull it out it was popped.
In my case, the body shop that fixed the rear panel damage had wired the license plate lights backwards, so the "hot" wire was grounding through the housing of the light. Could very easily be something similar in your case.
--DD
just took a look- the fuse is blown for that circuit, - a white one- and looking in trunk there is one of those white plastic connectors that leads to the trunk lights,it has been shorted out- it is a double- but melted into one solid piece of plastic !! looks like one of the wires was pulled out and touched the bottom of the trunk, shorting out the circuit, hope i can figure out what is what- probably the problem if they are on the same fuse / circuit!.
phil
To help me troubleshoot electrical gremlins I made a a table describing the origin and destination of each wire (by color) coming into and leaving the fuse panel, as well as when the wire should be hot. This is for a '73, and I know some things are different for your car, but it might be of some use.
QUOTE(Gudhjem @ Apr 16 2010, 11:50 AM)
QUOTE(Philip W. @ Apr 16 2010, 08:14 AM)
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 16 2010, 11:07 AM)
In the 74+ cars at least, the engine bay light and the license plate lights and the center console instrument lights all run off the same fuse. Check your fuses; they can look OK but still be popped. Pull them out, one at a time, and if the metal bits fall off of one when you pull it out it was popped.
In my case, the body shop that fixed the rear panel damage had wired the license plate lights backwards, so the "hot" wire was grounding through the housing of the light. Could very easily be something similar in your case.
--DD
just took a look- the fuse is blown for that circuit, - a white one- and looking in trunk there is one of those white plastic connectors that leads to the trunk lights,it has been shorted out- it is a double- but melted into one solid piece of plastic !! looks like one of the wires was pulled out and touched the bottom of the trunk, shorting out the circuit, hope i can figure out what is what- probably the problem if they are on the same fuse / circuit!.
phil
To help me troubleshoot electrical gremlins I made a a table describing the origin and destination of each wire (by color) coming into and leaving the fuse panel, as well as when the wire should be hot. This is for a '73, and I know some things are different for your car, but it might be of some use.
Thanks, I am sure it will help- i've been looking for the same and just told someone when I am done i need to do that for this 75. - this should help though.
With out the pelican site and tech articles they had posted I would have been lost as to which circuit is what, where, why etc!.
Phil
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.