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Full Version: Is this a good base car AXing?
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GaroldShaffer
Ok, this car has been on ebay before and for whatever reason it seems to be calling my name (well all 914's do that to me wink.gif )

My question for SCCA AXers is, would this be a good base project car to start with for AXing? For the record I haven't Ax yet, I will in a few weeks, and I know me I will be hooked. Hell I'm already hooked smile.gif

I have a 70 with a 2.0 that I want to use as my driver. I would like to have a car just for AXing / project car. I know there are AX cars listed here for sale but if I could get it for, say $2500 smoke.gif I think this would be a good start? Yes, No? Maybe? On thier website they want $4999 for it.

Just thinking out load. This usually costs me $$$

- Garold

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2471484673
DuckRyder
My opinion?

With the dash pad stripped out you are going to have to run at least prepared class.

You better budget for some suspension tires wheels and putting a dash pad back in it to get down to street prepared. Expect to get beat by the miata hoard, but you might be able to trophy occasionally with the right set up.

If you stay in prepared, you better paln on a lot more motor, a lot more tire, and a lot more suspension.

It does appear to be a decent car. I bet the reserve is more than 2500.
tat2dphreak
they were asking $6500 for this car a while back I believe! they are proud of their dashless car wink.gif

that said, it's a nice looking car(other than the no dash bit) I like it over all, for street, I don't know :dhead: about auto-x
seanery
i believe these folks were at the Doc & Cy's swap meet selling parts. They really like their parts, but they had nice stuff. I think the front trunk cage is a little over the top. If you could get it for the right price it'd be cool.
Mueller
The car looks like a good start, it really depends on how much they want for it and then, how much you are going to have to spend on it.

I do not know a thing about SCCA rules, but just looking at the car, it sure in the he// won't be in a "stock" or near stock class in the condition it is....even for PCA (our region out here), the car is going to put you in a class that you'd be so far off the pace, it wouldn't be funny....unless, you spend anouther few grand (minimum) to get it on par with the rest of the class.

i'd keep the main cage inside the cabin, cut the rest out, install a new dash (or even a beat up one), install a stock gas tank and go thru the suspension (it "might" have good shocks,spring, torsion bars already on it if you are lucky)...

as for the carbs, it all depends on the class, I'd think they would stick you in an advanced (costly) class...that would be fine if the motor was not bone stock and actually put out a respectible amount of power....

if the chassis is very solid, the cars worth 3 or 4 grand (IMHO).....the car is too stock in some places and too racey in other areas...you have to decide which direction you want to go....
cha914
This line really bothers me:

QUOTE
All the critical areas seem to be solid. The battery tray was removed and the area underneath it had some surface rust and a few minor holes. This area was sanded and treated with a rust killer then lightly fiberglassed, primed and painted. Average job, but there was no serious rust problem there.


sounds like someone is hiding a bad area with fiberglass...I would defin get that car up in the air and poke around before paying any money.

For my money I would buy a car like Mark is selling in the classifieds here:
http://www.914world.com/classifieds/detail...?cat=15&de=2009

too bad I have already spent more than that making basically the same car tongue.gif

Tony
GaroldShaffer
I really like Mark's car. I agree that it would be best way to go. I just need some extra $$$ for a AX car. Hey Mark if you read this are you willing to do a payment plan wink.gif smoke.gif laugh.gif

- Garold
Bleyseng
Hmm, this doesn't sound like the best....
>Driver side longitudinal was very solid, passenger side longitudinal had previous repairs that were done well. The passenger side suspension mount has been repaired in the past(as stated by previous owner). All the critical areas seem to be solid. The battery tray was removed and the area underneath it had some surface rust and a few minor holes. This area was sanded and treated with a rust killer then lightly fiberglassed, primed and painted. Average job, but there was no serious rust problem there. Again, the car is solid and will last a long time. We did have a patch job done to the very rear floor of the passenger side. All of this is now undercoated to protect it. The rest of the floors were great.>
If you are just starting to AX a good solid stock car is the way to go. Seat time is the important thing so you don't need a second car unless your 70 DD is in sad shape.

Geoff
GaroldShaffer
QUOTE
If you are just starting to AX a good solid stock car is the way to go. Seat time is the important thing so you don't need a second car unless your 70 DD is in sad shape.


agree.gif

My 70 DD is in great shape. I just have more time than $$$ right now and I know that I will have to have a 2nd car for AXing in the next year or two. Why??? because I want one. rolleyes.gif

- Garold
rdracrdave
Buy mine.
Search "SCCA 914" on ebay
Dave
Bleyseng
If the 70 is in great shape AX that one in what ever form it is in. Learn how to run this one and then find a second car. As you say, you haven't AX'd yet sooo try it out and then read the rule book. Decide where you want to run ie what class, SCCA or PCA. Then plan the car you want to run, changes, and how to fit the class you will run in. See you can do all this and get seat time now in your 70. The learning curve is pretty steep and as you get some experience you can make better decisions.

Geoff
rhodyguy
you mean not running a dash moves the car up a class? i'll need a big piece of paper for the penalty points on silver.

kevin
Bleyseng
Nah, its the cage thats the killer for AX on that car.
DuckRyder
In SCCA the dash moves it into at least prepared class. The cage it would depend on how many munting points and where. From what I can see it would probably move it to Mod class.

I have no clue about PCA.
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