QUOTE(RobW @ May 3 2010, 11:00 AM)
QUOTE(Borderline @ May 3 2010, 09:42 AM)
I use mine at every AX I attend to change to race tires and back. It works great is compact and light weight. Just keep it lubed.
Try it on an incline with dirt...
BZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!! - Rob - read the owners manual -
level hard surfaces only! Also the opposite front wheel should be chocked/stopped-off F&R.
Jacking 101: get to a proper & safe place to change the flat (flat, level & hard surface out of & well away from traffic), chock the opposite front tire F&R, release the E-brake, get the jack in position on a firm/flat surface & in the tube (inspect tube first every time) & just start it up without lifting the tire, break the lug bolts/nuts loose while the tire is still weighted on the ground, then jack up & remove the flat, replace with the spare (forehead top & knees at 70-80 & 200-220 degrees to hold the tire in place for the firs lug always worked for me in the pre-aligning-stud days), hand tighten the lugs, let her down part way to
partially re-weight the wheels to tighten up the lugs (star pattern, go to opposite corners rather than all around consecutively), then let 'er down the rest of the way, remove the jack, re-set the E-brake, remove the chocks & stow the flat, jack, etc. & get to a tire store asap to get the flat fixed.
I can make a video for you Rob, if you want!
Rich - they're also made for roadside emergencies - NOT shop work - use a proper floor jack for that, which is why there are 4 jacking/lift doughnuts on the underbody. But they're leagues better than the old USA ratchet types of the day!!
So long as your jack tubes/supports & longs are good, the Bilstein jacks work fine, but I prefer the 73> screw-type better than the earlier ones.
If the jack posts are iffy, then get a compact +/- 2 ton piston jack to carry on/next-to the spare in the front trunk well & use that on the appropriate jack post. Good idea to use a rubber or poly pad on top of the piston to save the doughnuts finish a bit. IMHO the hydraulic piston types are more reliable than the scissors type.
I've used both the factory & piston types on mine - about once or twice a year back in the day - sometimes to put the cable chains on the rears when up in the mountains to ski if space was too tight to roll back onto the chains. They work fine & are safe when used properly on a 914 without damaged tubes/longs & never get under the car with them. I'd bet that at least 9 times out of 10 the mishaps noted above were due to either tube/long damage &/or improper use of the jacks - including incomplete insertion into the tube - which the gals hate!
BTW - I voted 1 year anyway, even if it's been 25 since I drove mine. Damn the statisticians & full speed ahead - since a survey/pol can be structured to get any answer you want!
OK - so now I see that 70+% of you have never used theirs, so the garage queens & those missing a stock jack have to be thrown out, & you have to allow us old farts more than a year ago to vote under the "last year category"!!!!