my brakes were beyond questionable and i just rcvd 4 of the 5 rubber lines i ordered from pelican and installed them. 5 lines you ask - yeah - i replaced my proportioning valve with a tee and used a rubber line there too but it needs replacement with a rubber line now and the reinstall a proper prop valve asap.

anyway - my tires now SQUEAL under hard braking : ))))))))

btw - i use a motive bleeder to bleed by myself and will altrnate between blue and amber ate fuild at each flush, from eric shea.

Well done, I don't care how fast or quick a 914 is, it's gotta be able to stop.

Feels good doesn't it?

i was trans braking it, driving into the wind, oepning the door and putting my foot on the ground, to stop before - now the peddle can do it all : ) sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

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That's called the "Fred Flinstone" method of braking.

You mixed the brake fluid? The Super Blue has a warning on it saying not to do so.

I use the ATE Blue and Gold fluids on an alternating basis. When the other color bleeds through, I know I've changed my brake fluid.

BTW; Does anyone know why the Blue is always a couple of $$ more expensive than the Gold???

Eric Read

I believe it has a higher boiling point.

This is a good time to mention that "Super" blue attracts moisture even faster than the junk you can pick up from the local parts stores.

My advice:

Regardless of what fluid you use, change it out yearly.

Don't mix colors.

About the only diff I've seen from type and brand other than color is the boiling point. Thus, street cars just don't need anything better than DOT3 or DOT4 it seems. It's still fluid and non-compressable provided you have no water in it.

Oh yeah, metal cans are best, plastic ones suck for storing brake fluid.

They have different types of Super Blue. ATE makes a super blue and then there is a brand Super Blue But I do agree with what you are saying

one left to replace - waiting on delivery of last line.

Looks like a tough cookie to reach?

Yeah, I had a can of the ATE super blue that I totally forgot about. I wound up "tossing" it to the local chem recycle place. If I'm not willing to buy it often for the yearly change-out of fluid, then I don't want it. Stuff if crazy spendy and just not worth it for something with stock brakes driven on the street.

getting the clips off the top of the rear rubber brake lines was the bitch. i ended up removing the engine lid drain tubes and was able to - with a long screw driver - pry one off - thru the hole, the other was not as bad.

Regarding ATE Super Blue vs. ATE Type 200...

My understanding is that they are effectively identical other than color. I also heard that for DOT certification, the color must be yellow (or at least can't be died another color), so that is why ATE Super Blue is for "racing only" and is not DOT certified (might be wrong on this). Other than hearing that the Super Blue might cause some plastic reservoirs to potentially change color over time, I see no problem with alternating between ATE Super Blue and ATE Type 200 as a method to know when you have flushed old for new.

As always with any hydrophilic fluid, keep it sealed to keep water from working it's way in. Basically I try to not buy brake fluid in containers larger than I plan to use up within a short period of time. Old (but new) fluid that has been sitting in a previously opened can for a long time should not be used.

Here are the MSDS sheets on these ATE products as well as others. Super racing and the Gold "200" are, as Richard pointed out (by these data) identical, with the exception that Super Blue Racing doesn't have a Thermal Decomposition value stated. My money is on that they are identical in that as well... just can't say for sure. These values are from a few years back so if anything has changed it's elsewhere.

<I edited and deleted part of my own post 'cause when reread one part it sounded a little like I was pickin' on somebody when I wasn't!>

What isn't readily apparent in these sheets are the Wet and Dry temp limits found on most cans of racing fluids.

Good discussion!