ahhhhhhh.....
that new rotor feeling.
Click to view attachment

Very nice and shinny!

what amazed me was the contactor blade. It's almost completely gone from the old one!

I'm just guess'n here but I think the electrode on the right is a different design (longer duration fire if the juice is there). If there was that much erosion the residue would be all over the inside of your distributor. Are you sure that's the correct rotor?

It may help or make no difference at all but the cap may not have as much time to build up a charge in between plugs. It will make less of a difference on a four but on a six with stock ignition I'd check into it.

Again, I'm just askin the question.

That is not the correct rotor. That is for a later Bosch distributor with electronically controlled ignition. Something like a Vanagon or an older Golf.

They're the same part #

Going to fire it up today, I'll let you know how I make out.

Looks to me like one's an 033 and the other is an 038. The Cap'n

Cap'n
Any danger in trying the new rotor out?

Both rotors will work but there will be a slight advance in timing. If you're running an 009 at 28 deg, you may be at 30 deg with the new rotor. Worth a quick check.

I use whichever I have in stock, or which ever cost me less. I have both on hand, and the tip width is the difference. They're both listed as fitting 914s.

The Cap'n

I have a very old rotor on my 73 2.0 that I want to replace. It is a revlimiter, but I think it is the wrong one.

Anyone got the right part number and a pic?

There are multiple ones available but many have different revlimits built into them.

Since mine is a 2.0, the limit is something like 5650 or 5850, correct?

Thanks!

John
avidfanjpl

I'm pretty sure the rev limit should be set @ 5800.

There will be no change in timing. Timing is dictated by your points. The rotor is just a conductor path. The rotor position never changes because that shaft is solidly attached to the distributor drive. The distributor body, and therefore the points, change as the body orientation is changed relative to the center shaft. That is what changes the timing.

I've got an XR3000 optical system, so no points. That said, I'm going to give this thing a whirl anyway (pun fully intended).

Nope mine looks like this....

really????? I thought timing was controlled by that thing called points or maybe an electronic ignition. the spark fires when the pioint open, either the rotot is in postion for the spark to jump to the cap terminal or not. the length of the contact area on the rotor should have no perceptable effect on timing advance or retard.

Note how you can move the cap on the dizzie even when it is locked down, got to be a couple degrees of slop there to, yet that has no effect on timing.

the spark goes when the points open regardless of where the rotor is. either the rotor is in postion to allow the spark to jump to the cap or it is not. But the timing of that event is controlled by the points, not the rotor nor cap position.


I supsect you have two style of rotors with differenbt design of tips. (dispite same part numbers. If the difference was from wear, there would be a lot of arc welding style melted metal all about.

Different technology, same part. Crane = electronic points.

033's I believe are what 914's came with originally, the shorter contact.

You are 100% correct. I had me head in a separate conversation when I replied. Just not possible to multitask!

Update: new rotor is working just fine. I do need to set the timing but that is a separate and unrelated issue.

No, as stated above, it's the points that trigger the spark, the rotor is just a path of travel for the ZZZZT!