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jones
I will be adjusting my TPS in the morning. I adjusted it once before and want to make sure I did it right the first time (check, check and double check).
I have the tech. article from Pelican and it makes perfect sense to me, however I have read that an analog meter might work better than my digital meter, Is this the case? Are there any tips or tricks that anyone has?
It is a good part that I bought new a few months back so there are no issues with the unit.
Thanks for any info pray.gif beerchug.gif mueba.gif boldblue.gif
ChrisReale
I always had trouble holding the probes to the terminls. You can make a wire with a female prong and use clamps to hold the wires. I noticed the digital meters always jump all over the place.... just try to get as close to zero as yoiu can
Bleyseng
how is the condition of the tps before adjusting it?
TheCabinetmaker
Yeah, the probes are hard to hold in place. Almost takes 4 hands. Be sure to let the ohm meter zero itself first. The throttle cable needs a bit of slack in it also. I may get admonished for this, but it can be done without a meter. Take off the cover and look at what it does as you move it.
jones
Thanks for the tip Chris. Bleyseng when you ask how is the condition of the TPS before I adjust it do you mean are there any bucking problems or things like that? If so then no, I just want to recheck my work (I did it least time pretty fast, haste makes waste).
I am still running rich!!! Better now with the new MPS, runner boots and manifold gaskets. The car runs great, starts great, idles great, pulls great. Still have fouled plugs and am getting about 17 mpg. givemebeer.gif
jones
VSG914, what do you mean by look @ what it does when I move it? What the contacts do across the track or what the TB does? Does this relate to the 20 click method? Thanks smile.gif
Bleyseng
check fuel pressure and your CHT. See if its off. Check the cold start valve to see if its on or leaking. I take it the plugs are fluffy black? Not oily black

Geoff
JeffBowlsby
QUOTE
I always had trouble holding the probes to the terminals. ...I noticed the digital meters always jump all over the place.... just try to get as close to zero as yoiu can


Its too simple, you just need the TPS test plug that I sell. See my wiring harness webpage. Sorry for the blatant self-promotion.

Using a DMM is clearly the best tool...because they have a beep mode, where continuity is indicated by a beep sound. That is really all you are doing by 'calibrating' it. You are setting the position of the TPS where the idle contacts switch from open to closed...which signals the ECU when to take over.

Jeff
jones
Thanks Geoff and Jeff.
My fuel pressure measures @ 28 psi, my cold start valve has no inlet for a fuel line?? Strange, I know, but no connection. The only thing connected is the wireing that signals the injector and the hose for the AAR . The fuel line from the rail (the one that would feed the cold start injector) has a plug in it and is the one I have hooked up my pressure guage to test the pressure.
I am timed dead on (27 @ 3500), valves are correct, I have a new 012 CHT in place.
Bleyseng that is exactly how I would describe my fouled plugs, fluffy black! Not oily black.
Since I have taught myself from the PP board and this board how to bring back a FI car that sat for 10 years and can not seem to get it right, maybe I should just buy that single carb. deal that AA sells! Screw this FI stuff!! headbang.gif
Just kidding!
Perhaps I need one of you Seattle area guys to look over my novice work and set me straight idea.gif
Thanks guys pray.gif
Oh, one more thing I am pointless with a Crane Fireball.
New NOS injectors.
Vacume holds @ par.
Stock Bosch W7cc plugs, gap perhaps too small
Read 12v @ coil (new Bosch Blue)
This should be another post now!
Need some help, thanks all pray.gif mueba.gif
ChrisReale
What Bowlsby said. His tool makes this much easier.
Bleyseng
Bring it over and run the Janbo tester on it to test for any obvious problems.
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