Here's the old tips in action:

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Here's the new pinch attachment I just ordered. I'm stoked! I needed this to install the front fenders on a Mercedes. It's too tight to fit my other spot welder.

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Kind of a bad photo but I will have the thing next week.

Here's my other spot welder. But it's not good for tight spots.

Rick,

Looks like a nice way to weld.
What kind of spot welder is that you are using?
Seems like a useful piece of equipment.
How,s that celette working?

Jule

It's a lenco panel spotter. Excuse the photo it's buried behind a bunch of stuff. They have been in use long before wire feed welders were available. The welds are spot type like the factory. This is another reason I don't drill spot welds. I snap them and grind the spots flush. Then if I can I will install the new piece with spot welds.

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I have been across the country twice this year already. I have been working out of town most of the rest of the year. I have not used the Celette yet. I hope to soon.

I have been thinking about quiting my job lately and starting back in the restoration business. But with the present economy that would be financial suicide. So... off to work.

Can you describe your snap technique for us ?? I believe it may be usefull to a lot here , as drilling spots is very time consuming, not looking for a fast easy way , just one that would be handier. Thanks ....

Jack / Jaxdream

I use a 4" cut off wheel and grind the spot welds thin. I then use a Craftsman screw driver and split the weld. This destroys the piece I'm replacing but does very little to no damage to the piece I want to keep. The can be done event with used sections. Here's the Revenna car with the used front panel fit this way. Notice no drilled holes. The panel is ready to spot weld back in.

The hand pressed spot welder takes a lot of pressure to close the two pieces together and in a lot of places it's the only way to do a spotweld. This is not for beginners but it can be done well as Rick will tell you. The ones that close with tension on both sides are the best but won't get to a lot of places. Thats not as easy as it looks. Actually that is a thing that is used mostly for speed by manufacturers, they didn't do it that way because it was the most structurally sound, it is the fastest. But when you start taking a panel off you will see it's more than adequate if enough spots are applied. It does look factory when it is finished though. If weldthrough primer is used inbetween the panels it gets even harder to get a good weld. I tried that on a couple of jeep panels and had rust come back inbetween the overlap even though I seam sealed both edges. I think the body twisted and opened the edges to allow water in the space. I myself believe spot welds are a speed production thing.

Yes, It's hard to know of you are getting a good weld. If I have a concern I will drill a few plug welds in, grind them flush and then hide them with the spot welder. Strength and a factory appearance. I also agree about the primer issue. I will use metal conditioner/converter in the seams where I can then thin a self etching primer and blow it in the seam. It's not fool proof but as good as you can get and still maintain a factory look. Short of dipping a car you will never be 100% sure you have addressed all the bare metal. Even mig welding will burn the weld through primer and open the panel up to rust issues. I think, just do the best you can. There's no real answer in the restoration market that I know of. Scotty and others may have a better solution. I have been out of the industry for 20 years. For me, this is just a hobby and is supposed to be fun not work.

If I ever try to spotweld again I may try some cold dip galvanized paint on coating I have on hand. It's used a lot on custom built gate frames to paint over welds to make them look hot dipped entirely.

I was unable to find col galv spray paint in in the can for awhile. My local autobody supplier quit selling it. I think the air born galv is very bad for you. They were selling red oxide and a copper based spray. I lucked out and found some at my local welding supply store when I was ordering the new spot welder attachment. The clerk stated he wanted a full report as they just got it in.

The stuff I have is pretty old and needs a metal stirrer to get it whipped up evenly. I think it came from my fabber buddy that didn't think he would ever use it again. Some of this stuff might eat through the can if you don't pay attention to it, I have some silver paint like for propane tanks and such that has. I set the cans on newspaper in the floor in my paint storage room just in case not on a shelf. A gallon is also real heavy.

3M sells weld through primer, cold galv stuff.
I hate it.

Rich