As is typical, I bought the full kit of replacement bushings for my 73 2.0 shift linkage last year, but this kit fell to the bottom of the list of projects. I am now ready to lay on my back for a Saturday.
I am motivated to do the bushings, but the sheet seemed a little light on directions.
I do better with pictures AND typewritten instructions, and my reading glasses!
I remember seeing someone, maybe Pelican, has a written description on how to replace the old black and white bushings, but I wondered, has anyone ever documented the steps to replace them in photos?
I think there are 4 or 5 parts that came in the box, but I am working from memory and the box is in the garage 2 stories down, and I am being lazy right about now on an early Friday evening.
Any suggestions, links or directions appreciated!
Thanks!
John
avidfanjpl
Full Version: Any pictures and instructions?
Very easy to replace and anyone can give you the instructions verbally that you will understand.
Thank you, Doctor!
Steve didn't answer his phone, so I have to wait a bit!
John
Steve didn't answer his phone, so I have to wait a bit!
John
Super easy.. some tips would be good though...
Jack your car up high
Use jack stands
Don't strip the tear shaped / allen bolt - use penetrating oil if rusted and use a socket allen if you can.
The firewall bushing can be a bear but you can get it on fine.
Inspect the shift coupler
Look for rust and bends on the bar itself
Everything is straightforward.. have fun...
Jack your car up high
Use jack stands
Don't strip the tear shaped / allen bolt - use penetrating oil if rusted and use a socket allen if you can.
The firewall bushing can be a bear but you can get it on fine.
Inspect the shift coupler
Look for rust and bends on the bar itself
Everything is straightforward.. have fun...
Once you get under the car... It is easier than it reads.. The shift coupling bushings if you have those in your kit need to be pressed in and pressed out, I just walked mine over to the closet mechanic and he did it for $5.00, that was the only real effort invloved.. here is the basics
Rear Ball Cup Bushing
The rear ball cup bushing is placed inside the shift rod head (#24) and is often worn out from wear over the years. Shown on the left side of Figure 1, this bushing fits around the ball lever that is attached to the side-shifter transmission. Wear on this bushing will lead to sloppy shifting. Replacement is relatively simple. Simply loosen and remove the tapered screw on the front of the linkage (#26), and the tapered screw (#23) from the rear of the linkage and slide the 'universal joint' attached to the rear shift bar back from the front bar. You need to remove the tapered screws all the way as they are not normal set screws. Separating the rear linkage bar from the front may require some tugging as the fit is sometimes quite tight. Be sure to use the correct hex wrench to remove the tapered screws. Stripping them will require you to drill out and replace your rear linkage bar (been there, done that...).
Once you have the rear bar removed from the front, the shift rod head should simply slide off. Remove the ball cup bushing, and then 'snap on' another one. This may take some force, as the ball cup makes a nice air pocket that you are inevitably trying to compress as you put the bushing on. Be sure to use a little lithium grease inside the bushing to reduce the wear. The addition of grease, of course, makes the air seal better, making it increasingly difficult to snap the bushing onto the ball.
Replacement of the shift linkage is the opposite of disassembly. No adjustment is required because the tapered screws should line everything up perfectly. Before replacing the shift linkage, though I would recommend replacing the other shift bushings described below.
Tapered Screws
As described in the previous section, the tapered screws (#26 & #23) hold the rear half of the linkage together. If these screws are loose, missing or damaged, then the linkage will shift very sloppily. It is wise to remove and check the screws every once and awhile. Placing some locktite on the screws will also help to keep them from backing out.
Shift Rod Bushing
There is another bushing that the rear shift rod goes through at the very end of its length near the transmission. This bushing can be seen in the right side of Figure 1. In this figure, the bushing has been replaced with a bronze bushing which, although expensive, will almost never wear out. replacement of this bushing is similar to the ball cup bushing described above. Simply remove the rear shift linkage bar and snap out the bushing. The bronze bushing comes with a snap ring which holds it in place. The plastic one snaps into place. Again, place a little grease on the bushing when you install it.
Figure 2: Firewall Shifter Rod Bushing
Firewall Bushing
This one is not as easy to replace. The bushing holds the shifter steady as it passes through the 914 firewall, as shown in Figure 2. You need to disconnect the rear shifter bar as described above and remove it from the car. Then you need to pull the front shift rod forward out of the firewall, in order to remove and replace the bushing. There are two ways of doing this.
The best method is to remove the three mounting screws that hold the shift lever to the car chassis. When the lever is loose, simply slide the shifter forwards, and the bar should fall out of the firewall bushing. You need to remove the center console to do this, but more importantly, you don't need to readjust the shifter linkage later on.
Once you have the front shifter bar out of the way, the firewall bushing can be removed by prying it out of the firewall. The old one is usually quite worn and comes out pretty easily. Getting the new one pushed into the firewall takes some patience (what doesn't on a 914) and quite a bit of force. I found that vise grips helped to compress the bushing before I installed it into the firewall.
After the new bushing is installed, you then need to replace the front shifter bar. To insert the bar back through the firewall, you need to access the bar through the small access port located under the center cushion. Removing the small metal plate allows you to get a grip on the rod and guide it into the bushing. Now simply reinstall the center console, access plate, center cushion, and reattach the rear shifter bar. You may want to do some inspection and/or modification to your shifter lever (see below) before you replace your center console.
copied for u from Pelican Tech article"shifting improvements".. pics are over on their site..
Rear Ball Cup Bushing
The rear ball cup bushing is placed inside the shift rod head (#24) and is often worn out from wear over the years. Shown on the left side of Figure 1, this bushing fits around the ball lever that is attached to the side-shifter transmission. Wear on this bushing will lead to sloppy shifting. Replacement is relatively simple. Simply loosen and remove the tapered screw on the front of the linkage (#26), and the tapered screw (#23) from the rear of the linkage and slide the 'universal joint' attached to the rear shift bar back from the front bar. You need to remove the tapered screws all the way as they are not normal set screws. Separating the rear linkage bar from the front may require some tugging as the fit is sometimes quite tight. Be sure to use the correct hex wrench to remove the tapered screws. Stripping them will require you to drill out and replace your rear linkage bar (been there, done that...).
Once you have the rear bar removed from the front, the shift rod head should simply slide off. Remove the ball cup bushing, and then 'snap on' another one. This may take some force, as the ball cup makes a nice air pocket that you are inevitably trying to compress as you put the bushing on. Be sure to use a little lithium grease inside the bushing to reduce the wear. The addition of grease, of course, makes the air seal better, making it increasingly difficult to snap the bushing onto the ball.
Replacement of the shift linkage is the opposite of disassembly. No adjustment is required because the tapered screws should line everything up perfectly. Before replacing the shift linkage, though I would recommend replacing the other shift bushings described below.
Tapered Screws
As described in the previous section, the tapered screws (#26 & #23) hold the rear half of the linkage together. If these screws are loose, missing or damaged, then the linkage will shift very sloppily. It is wise to remove and check the screws every once and awhile. Placing some locktite on the screws will also help to keep them from backing out.
Shift Rod Bushing
There is another bushing that the rear shift rod goes through at the very end of its length near the transmission. This bushing can be seen in the right side of Figure 1. In this figure, the bushing has been replaced with a bronze bushing which, although expensive, will almost never wear out. replacement of this bushing is similar to the ball cup bushing described above. Simply remove the rear shift linkage bar and snap out the bushing. The bronze bushing comes with a snap ring which holds it in place. The plastic one snaps into place. Again, place a little grease on the bushing when you install it.
Figure 2: Firewall Shifter Rod Bushing
Firewall Bushing
This one is not as easy to replace. The bushing holds the shifter steady as it passes through the 914 firewall, as shown in Figure 2. You need to disconnect the rear shifter bar as described above and remove it from the car. Then you need to pull the front shift rod forward out of the firewall, in order to remove and replace the bushing. There are two ways of doing this.
The best method is to remove the three mounting screws that hold the shift lever to the car chassis. When the lever is loose, simply slide the shifter forwards, and the bar should fall out of the firewall bushing. You need to remove the center console to do this, but more importantly, you don't need to readjust the shifter linkage later on.
Once you have the front shifter bar out of the way, the firewall bushing can be removed by prying it out of the firewall. The old one is usually quite worn and comes out pretty easily. Getting the new one pushed into the firewall takes some patience (what doesn't on a 914) and quite a bit of force. I found that vise grips helped to compress the bushing before I installed it into the firewall.
After the new bushing is installed, you then need to replace the front shifter bar. To insert the bar back through the firewall, you need to access the bar through the small access port located under the center cushion. Removing the small metal plate allows you to get a grip on the rod and guide it into the bushing. Now simply reinstall the center console, access plate, center cushion, and reattach the rear shifter bar. You may want to do some inspection and/or modification to your shifter lever (see below) before you replace your center console.
copied for u from Pelican Tech article"shifting improvements".. pics are over on their site..
Thanks for this!
It was exactly what I was looking for.
Looks like I will be on the floor tomorrow messing around!
J
It was exactly what I was looking for.
Looks like I will be on the floor tomorrow messing around!
J
QUOTE(avidfanjpl @ May 14 2010, 05:21 PM) 
Thanks for this!
It was exactly what I was looking for.
Looks like I will be on the floor tomorrow messing around!
J
Don't forget the Advil John! I find one before & 1-2 after works well!
I wish I'd gotten the "Old Guys Rule" tee-shirt at the Orange Plaza Hot Rods & Classics Car Show a few weeks ago!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.