All you V8 guys and guys that have built these pocket rockets which kit or combination of parts work best. Such as quality of parts, service, instructions, cost,ect. How about some testimonys and storys from V8 people about their cars, what they used and what they wouldn't use if they had it to do over again.

Get the Renegade radiator setup. It's worth the money.

Never heard any complaints about KEP's adapter and clutch components. They're good folks who know what they're doing. Parts are top notch

Stay far away from Red Dawg

Renegade Hybrids provides very good customer service and their kit components work well. They go out of their way to make you happy and make sure things are right. They're the only people presently updating the kit, testing, and trying to bring new conversion products to the market. . .well, at least of the major conversion guys.

Rod Simpson's the original kit guy. . . he's been selling the same parts and will continue selling the same parts. No updates in quite some time. Radiator setup is not bullet-proof. . . some have experienced serious problems with it.

If you're in the Bay Area, consider talking with Brad Roberts now with High Performance House. He's probably put together as many conversion cars w/ varied components as anybody out there.

plan on babying the stock trans AND breaking a few if you go that route. .. or, you can $tep up to the modified 930 or G50 gearbox. I got mine from Renegade and they do good work. . . but, if I were to do it again, I'd talk with Brad first. He appearantly might have a new method of machining the 930 box for our applications and has a source or a plan for custom R&P for G50 gearbox. If you plan to step up, budget in $5000 to do just the gearbox upgrade. . . no joke. That's what it costs
Biggest problem right now for the upgraded trans is shifting it. It's either an elaborate custom tail-shifter setup or a cable shifter available from numerous sources. Renegade's cable clutch setup for the 930 is pretty slick utilizing the stock omega helper spring. My wife was able to easily work it w/ a 3200 lb. pressure plate. Other option is fab a hydraulic system to get your mechanical advantage.

Skip the 915. It's not as strong and not geared right for the V8 even though it's easier to reverse and Velios has a sideshift kit for it. Brad's pressuring them to do the same for the 930 box.

Pre-86 carburetted Small Block Chevy's fit. LT1's do not because of the front air intake. LS1's are in the works but there are no kits presently available for them. You'll have to fab a little. The actual engine adapters are available though. Appearantly you can reverse the intake on the LS1's to suck in from the back instead of the front.

I'm piecing together a MPFI system on a pre-86 SBC from mostly Holley parts from their Commander 950 system which also 's. Using a Megasquirt homespun engine computer. Found it on Ebay. Don't think I'll regret it.

All the other chassis and brake mods are all over the forum. Pick your flavah. .. if you're building huge HP, don't forget huge brakes are not overkill.

-'Chung

Chung has good advice. I'd suggest doing a search on this topic. Many good testimonials given by those who have been down this road.

Renegade is the top kit provider and the only place I would go if your wanting to buy a kit. They are a one stop shopping place if your not into searching junkyards or fabricating your own parts. Customer support is outstanding.

I've had excellent results from my stock (but rebuilt) 901 and it's been on the road about 19 months now. You'll have to use some common sense and resist from roasting the tires too often or shock loading drivetrain while shifting. For my driving style, the 901 works.........I'd just like to change the gearing and plan to do so in the future. Just can't justify spending up to $6000 for a 930.

Gotta run.........installing a/c and heat in my car today. Will post pics and results in about a week. All the major components have been mounted, just need to have all the hoses installed and charge system.

John

In addition to asking Brad specifically and this BBS in general, there are two Pors-chev mailing lists out there. Both are pretty low-traffic but you can get answers.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pors-chev/ is a pretty even-keel, non-biased group, although every once in a while things can heat up.

http://www.pors-chev.com is owned by Renegade Hybrids, and as such you'll get answers from them the quickest posting there. Scott is very helpful and usually reins in the sales pitch pretty good when answering questions. He's not bashful about mentioning his products if they might fill a need, but he doesn't answer questions simply by saying "buy my products." He gives real answers. I have yet to see him deal in a heavy-handed manner with anyone who disagrees with him (but he's also not afraid to defend himself).

HTH,

John

Watcha thinking about 914GEM ?? I know you have access to some very nice equipment... and I know you dont *really* want to build a conversion car.


B

I tried to build a Jaide (who) kit in the 80's when customer support was a pipe dream and parts were well...crude. The internet forums, Neo Renegade, KEP, and a very few specialists: ie Brad have helped spoil people building these conversions.

If I had to do it over and wanted a turnkey car, I'd have Renegade build it with their proven parts. Renegade is currently the Porsche V8 conversions status quo.

If I wanted something off the Renegade's beaten path, I'd ask Brad.

Hi Brad, not up to to much. I have a KEP adapter and clutch set up, just wondering which is the best way to go. Gone the Rod Simpson route already and wont go there again. Watch for my intermediate plates and caliper spacer kits for vented rotors. You can see them in Ft Worth in July, testing is completed. Doing a 6 conversion for a customer using AA steel flares. Flares must be old they have a few wrinkles. Glad you opened your shop, pray you do great. Thanks to the others< I have a good idea how to go on my destroked V8 conversion.

Renegade all the way. No questions.

Hopefully your intermediate plate doesnt expand with heat and cause the shift rods to stick in the tranny.


B

914GEM here is a 327 with a 283 crank brings it down to a 305, Holley projection, all MSD ignition including Dist.
very nice dependable car.
One thing that is fun no shifting, I can make it around the autoX course in second. LOL
CCLIN914SQUAREMOTOR

Hi all
I used the old Renegade kit from the 90's in my 914. I have a fuel injected SBC that is twin turbo charged and twin intercooled. Output is over 1000 hp and over 1000 lbs. It’s all mated to a panteria box. The Renegade kit kicks ass. The rad system keeps my monster cool; All of the Renegade parts are top notch. Installation of the Renegade parts was easy and straightforward. With my application some modification was necessary, but the Renegade set up was so well designed, the modifications were easy. If I had to do it all over again I would still use the Renegade kit.

Regards

Turbo Paul.

Hi Boxstr, your engine compartment looks nice, where is the battery. My wife and I are planing a trip to the West Coast next year and the camp914 is one of the stop on our trip. Met Brad last year in Hot Springs, he is a great guy full of ideas and knowlage. I would like to visit all the 914 people and shops to bring ideas and 914 tech back to Arkansas so we can use our shade tree for shade.

That 305 looks pretty cool. I've always loved the high-rev SBCs. Big fan of the '69 Z28 302...zooooom. They made a modern version before killing off the most recent camero...used a lot of z06 parts and made something like 430HP and revved like no other, had problems keeping the tires on, but I digress.

From what I've seen, and the finished project cars, the renegade parts seem to be top notch.

Turbo914v8,

Do you have pics?

-'Chung

Talk to us Turbo.. show us some pics.. I knew you where out there.. but hadnt seen or heard from you.


B

Yeah Paul G, pics of your beast would be NICE. Chris will be posting his here soon if not already....

Did you ever contact him or Harry about their experience with the ZF transaxle?

914GEM thanks the pics are taken before I got the car and It is a little on the dirty side, I have since cleaned it up as time has allowed.
The battery is mounted in the front, radiator is not a RH but it seems to be getting the job done.
When I get around to doing a conversion on the JLO car I will be using the RH radiator system.
Give me a holler when you are out in this neck of the woods, gone in June for the WCC in San Jose Ca. that might be a good time for you to plan your trip, then you can meet just about everyone in one place.

I have to make a correction I stated that the motor is a 327 w/283 crank making it a 305, not true it is a 302 like the 67-8 Z-28s. And yes I am having to switch to new Kumhos , because the old Yokos are not getting the job done.
It is setup as an autocross/DE car, and that is what I will keep it as.
CCLIN914V8HEAVEN

I have been in contact with both Chris and Harry regarding their experience with the ZF transaxle. They are both amazing people, very friendly and totally helpful. As for pictures, I made the mistake of handing all my pictures over to a family friend who wanted to build my web-sight for a school project. He has all the pictures. This was done some time ago. Since my current job takes me out of the country on many occasions and I work nights, I have not had a great opportunity to pressure this kid into moving his a**. I am working on it but its not top priority at them moment. I just moved into a new house, bigger garage to keep and work on my monster, although not much work has been done. The wife wants, DEMANDS that I fix up the house first before do anything in the garage, so there you have it. In reality I should not be spending time on this board, but could not resists. The answer is yes. Yes I am whipped.

Welcome Turbo914V8! That is a ton of power to make in a 914. Do you have any issues with driveline components breaking (axles, cv joints, etc.) What about flexing of the chassis? I knew some guys with old muscle cars that drag race and the whole front end of their cars twist when they get on the throttle. Did you do anything special to the body to stiffen it up?

soloracer,

I took many hours and seam welded the entire car. Reinforced the laterals by boxing them with heavy gauge steel. Roll cage, well roll bar semi cage. Plans later on to tube the entire car and tie front and rear suspension points together. At the moment its a never ending battle finding room for all the sh** needed to make this sickness work. My only issue at the moment is the cv's. The cv's I have now I am sure will not last so I have been investigating an alternative. At the moment my research has indicated that the top cv for high HP applications would be the 935 unit, sometimes referred to as a 934. These cv's are the daddy of all cv's. I mead these things are HUGE. I am not positive but I don’t believe that the 935 cv's will fit in the 914 trailing arms with out major modification, so the second choice will be the 930 cv's. The 930 cv's have been used extensively in off road buggies with major success. The biggest advantage with the 930 cv's is that they are widely available. So I am leaning toward the 930.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

Hey Paul,

Nothing larger than a 930 CV will fit inside the 914 stock control arm. BTDT. I personally believe that the 930 CV's will work fine with Cryo treatment and some blueprinting. We have successfully launched/drag raced a true 750HP engine on slicks with a 930 box and 930 CV's.. they are still in the car to this day and appear to be fine.

The current "granddaddy" is the CV/axles used in the Porsche GT3RSR, but they are one piece assemblies and dont have CV's that we can slide onto custom length axles.


B

Brad,

Thanks for the information. I guess the obvious choice is the 930 cv's. I am going to start gathering the parts for the conversion to the 930 cv's. At least this way when I break what I have now, I will be ready with the 930 set up. For the moment it's not broken so I wont fix it. What are you running in your car? Engine, transaxle?. Any other modifications.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

Hello,

Is there a difference between 930 CV's and 930 CV's? I see them advertised in magazines like Hot VW's for like $40-$60 and I see Porsche CV's for something like $90.

I'm sure these CV's all fit the same, I was wondering if there are other internal differences between the different lobro parts. . . or do they just have a different part number for the Porsche just for price gouging's sake. Or are they all the same and some people have different importers/pricing structure. . . just buy from the cheapest guy.

-'Chung

Chung,

Call them and find out what the "kit" includes. Some kits include boots/grease/flanges. The cheaper kits come with a dry CV joint in a box. I wouldnt trust anything but lobro.

I have tested using the early 911 CV's that are the exact same size as a 930 but only have 4 bolts and two pins. I drill them out for the other two bolts and go on down the road. So far so good.


B

Paul,

I dont actually have a conversion car. Everything I start building ends up being sold before I get a chance to complete it (somebody normally wants it before I am done.)

The wife wants me to do a Z06 vette engine in her GT flared 914. I want to do it but we have to recover from a HUGE financial gamble that I took.


B

Do the 911 CV's hold together ok with the 2 pins and 4 bolts? My stub axles are 911 w/ the pin holes. I figure my application wouldn't be stressing them too badly.

Otherwise, is there any reason they couldn't be drilled and tapped for bolts?

-'Chung

The holes for the pins are too big to be tapped. They will work fine on the outboard side of the axle.

Those are SC flanges.. they dont exactly fit our wheel bearings (I know how to make them fit..) but the early flanges slide right in.


B

Uh oh,

Which part of the flanges do not fit right? I purchased them eons ago from Rich Johnson for my 914 w/ the rest of my suspension.

I wonder if he knew that or has already modified them. .. I'm clueless. I just buy stuff I think might fit <_<

-'Chung <_<

Brad,

Are the 930 CV's the same size as the later ('89) Carrera (108mm I believe) ?

Thanks,

Andy

Brad,

Your work must be really grand if you are selling every thing before its finished. Now if only I could get my wife into converting 914's. She would just rather get a new car that works and just be done with it.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

Hi Chung, glad you made it here.

I found a relatively new conversion company surfing Ebay, Desert Hybrids. Run by a Mechanical Engineer with a CNC out of Tucson AZ. Different component layout than RH, I haven't seen a RSH kit to compare. Seemed like a bright guy from the email. Uses the Kennedy parts that no one else will admit to. Billet water pump housing anyone??

Desert Hybrids

*haven't met the guy, can't vouch for him, just another Dave I know...

Chris

PS. bus axles, 930/bus CVs, 1/2" machined spacers. RH sells a built kit. Pelican carrys it. Good stuff for HP.

>Billet water pump housing anyone

Cool. Of course the one pictured is not a "billet", but a "weld-up". I'm no expert on centrifugal pumps, but the sharp angles on this one don't seem right.

Seems to me if you have a clean sheet, engineering degree/CAD, CNC, then you should be able to produce a higher tolerance pump than that. i.e. machined elbows with a lip or features to hold the hoses on securely. Maybe it's a prototype...

He must use his CNC's alot more on high production parts since you need to run these 24x7 to pay for their capital and operational costs.



Chris, actually KEP is what the ZF conversions use and there are a few like Bob C who runs their adapter (he drove his white 914 with Scott's car on Calaveras road) Note: half the cars at the last Bay Area conversion meet had non-Renegade parts. Scott and Mike still spent the day with the Renegade renegades.

For comparison, this is the Renegade pump. I prefer the the inlet/out fittings since they swivel to allow proper hose orientation vs. being fixed. The conversion pumps are notorious for blowing hoses since there is no bypass provided to relieve pressure prior to thermostat opening. I agree that a ridge should be provided on all hose fittings.

The nuts tack welded to the desert housing make me a little nervous. They take the stress of the bolts securing impeller housing as well as pressure applied from drivebelt while in operation. The tension applied to secure belt when tight is transmitted to these nuts. Guess the nuts were easier to install vs. machining into housing but either a full weld should be applied or machine these threads into pump housing should provide added strength.

Attached is a Renegade pump. Excuse the RTV mess. Mo' is not always better : ) Got it right the second time around.

John

hikgf

The fixed inlet fitting on Dessert pump will more than likely create a severe kink with inlet hose as it attaches to pump. This is the tightest radius turn in the entire cooling system and a kink can be installed even with the RH pump if attention to detail is not followed during hose installation.

The inlet being offset to about 8 o'clock (as viewed from rear of car) also keeps hose tucked tight under chassis.

John

Davids(Desert Hybrids) steel pump housing lines up nice when mounted on the engine.

Bob

Bob,

The inlet fittings do appear to work when pump is installed on right hand side. With my serpentine belt/ac compressor/water pump/alternator setup, the water pump is installed on left side and would not put hoses in best location.

John

Looking at the RH pump again and comparing to Desert, I stand corrected. The hose outlet fittings would work no matter which side of engine pump is mounted on..........just have to route hoses a little different than the method I chose.

John

Renegade now offers this piece to aid in eliminating kink in rubber hose at water pump inlet. I am currently running a steel spring in my hose to eliminate kink and plan to install this piece next time system is drained.

What I'd really like to see is this extention be part of water pump inlet.........two less hose clamps, two less potential water leak points.

John

I used a molded rubber hose with a 90 bend it it for mine. I went to North Carolina yesterday to a shop that sells Nascar teams take off parts. They had a box of aluminum water pipe bends the size of a pickup truck bed.

Bob

Some really great ideas in regards to fixing the potential problems with a kink developing in the water inlet. I took the easy way out. I just added four additional hose clamps where the hose wanted to kink. The clamps make sure the hose stays round at that point. I was concerned with introducing yet another 90 into the cooling system.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

I have access to the small bead roll device needed to put the 'lip" into in the old RHS steel fittings. I have been doing this on all the older conversion cars that come in for service. Blowing hoses is a HUGE concern... still dont undertstand why somebody doesnt address this issue (production pieces.. not one off's)


B

Nice radiator install. Bussinesslike, efficient. I noticed the air bleeds. It's details like those that make a "do it yourself" cooling system work. Nice job

Mike T

Brad,

As I understand it, RH is instructing people to drill three 1/8 holes in the thermostat to prevent the hoses from popping off when the thermostat is closed. I have not done it yet so cannot comment on its effectiveness. I am however considering it.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

John Thomas had posted athread about the thermostat holes a while back. I had the "popoff" rad hose on a couple of occasions, and I decided lets give this a try.
Pulled the thermostat housing and VOILA, not thermostat. I had a Hypertech 160, drilled the three holes and installed, I have run the car since and so far no problems.
I have also doubled up on the hose clamps on the pump outlets,too.
CCLINNOLEAKS

Paul,

I knew about drilling the 1/8" holes in thermostat while building my car and placed them in the wrong location, effectively rendering them useless, and ran car for several months without popping a hose. The concept makes sence since we tossed out the bypass that chevy designed into their stock pump by installing the typical conversion piece.

Renegade explained to me the 1/8" holes were to protect pump impeller during warm up (below 140 or so degrees or until thermostat started to open). They also warned to keep rpm below 2000 rpm until signs of engine warming took place. Somewhere along the line I learned about the potential of hoses popping off without bleed holes. Not sure why mine never came off during the time I ran without them. Maybe its because I had the ridge on every fitting of my cooling system.

The 1/8" holes also aid in bleeding air from cooling system during initial fill. This alone is worth the effort of installing them.

John

Ok I am convinced; I will add the modifications to the thermostat as stated. Thanks for the information John.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.