When I had the engine put back in the car I noticed the engine tin didn't align with the engine bay anymore. There now was 3" gap between the firewall and the engine tin. I asked the mechanic if there was some adjustment we could do to line up the engine better. He said it was basically a "bolt-up" job and didn't know how to align it further.

Today I was looking through George's 700 tips and saw tip #348. Which bascially says if you can't shift into 1st 3rd or fifth, then you've installed the power plant too far back. Sure enough I have had problems with these gears.

So how do I go about adjusting the powerplant more forward?

I have no idea where the adjustement "play" to move the engine forward or back would be.

Any help would be appreciated.

3 inches? I don't even think the stock 4cyl mounts have that much "adjustement" to them. Can you post a couple of pictures for us?

You only have about an inch or so before the tranny would fall off the two large rear mounting bolts.

Something doesn't sound right here.

Take a couple of pics and post. The gap you describe. The engine and trans mounts from below.

OK, I'll upload some pictures tonight. At work at the moment.

You might be right, the gap could be less than 3". I was estimating from memory.

Does the engine slide on bolts at some point? I just don't understand how it can actually have adjustment in the forward or aft placement.

First - can your mechanic! He's pucked something up if it's 3" out & cannot figure out how to do it, unless it's a non-stock engine (e.g: a 6 conversion).

2nd - try Otto's in Venice or one of the other more knowledgeable shops for 914s (if you can't do it yourself), since he knows these older 914's.

I have spent a bit of time adjusting my motors to be square in the car...that also makes shifting better.
If you remove the muffler, you can use a car jack (scissor type) between the rear of the trans and the body to push the motor forward.

Its very simple if you use a standard floor jack to hold the weight of the motor, yet not lift the car.
Loosen the engine mount bolts at the outer engine bar and the rear of the trans...then use the scissor jack to move it forward.

You have to tap all the bolts or they bind when you are trying to move it.

It cannot move 3 inches...
The slots in the trans are good for 1-2 inches of play at most...I push the motor all the way forward so the rear trans bolts are straight and fully seated.


Rich

Silly question, but is the front engine tin in place? That would be close to a 3" gap if it was missing.

Alright here are photos of the engine bay. image 1 Driver side, image 2 Passenger side .

I also remembered my mechanic said when he mated the transmission the exhaust hanger didn't line up. So he had to weld some tabs to have the exhaust line up correctly. This seemed a like a band-aid solution at the time, unfortunately life got busy and I didn't remember about it until now. Does this shed any light on the problem/solution?

That doesn't look terrible. Maybe a little cockeyed. I think the mounting hardware for the trans is not correct. It looks like you have a 911 engine mounts back there. This is very common, but it looks like the stock large washer is at the bottom of the trans mounting ear. Its hard to tell from the picture. I hate to say it but give us more pictures of the rubber mounts with their washers, and the front cross bar where it mounts to the body. All of this can be aligned/arranged properly in your garage with a floor jack and some tools. You can do it. We can help.

My head hurts after looking at those pictures. So much..........to.........correct.

As stated, looks like your engine is pretty much where it should be.

The exhaust hanger thing should be corrected.

The rear tranny mounts aren't correct. That "cup" washer on the bottom should be on the top with a very thick washer on the bottom.

Move those reverse light wires away form that CV.

That dishwasher hose will not hold up with oil etc getting into it.

The ground strap? Looks like it's connected to the trans mount? Should be on the nice bare metal (Clean) little stud just above the rear of the tranny.

Nobody likes talking bad about someone elses work, but you should really take your 914 to someone who knows them if you can't do the work yourself.

Oh, the Hell Hole area looks really clean! I see nice green paint, no rust, cool!

Guys thank you so much for the help and direction. I've gone through 3 mechanics already. I might have to just start going to Otto's in Venice, though I know he won't like my big bore 4.

Apartment living limits what I can do without upsetting neighbors. This weekend I'll fix the grounding strap. Hmm... maybe that's why i'm having starting issues?

How should i keep the wires away from the CV? Zip ties, or is it to be routed some other way?

Oh and thanks! Yep the hell hole and all cancer has been cut out and replaced. She's been resprayed the original Irish green.

Here are some more photos as requested.

images:
1 driver side
2 pass side
3 driver side
4 pass side

Thanks again!

Ok I see now that I'm missing part #37 the lower thicker washer from the rear mounts. This would probably account for why the hanger was too high and wouldn't align.

Now for the front mounts. Do these look on correct? From the second diagram it looks like #15 might be upside down?

...

Here is the photo that I used to fix mine!!

Wow, stupid me. I think I have the top washer upside down. No wonder I feel more vibration.

Well crap. I have my rear washer/cups upside down.

Bingo, thank you Jeff, that's what it should look like.

It also appears you are using a '75-'76 exhaust hanger on a '73-'74 set of heat exchangers ... no wonder he welded them ... it doana work!

So it looks like you have 911 engine mounts for the engine cross bar too. What is missing from these and the ones in the rear are washers that these mounts use. These are large concaved washers that cover the entire round center of the mount. They are about 2" diameter with a 12mm hole. They distibute the load. Without them the center of the mount will pull through the rest of the rubber mount. You need one top and one bottom. It looks like you do not have any on the front mounts. The rear "trans" mounts have the original units on top. This is how a lot of folks run them, but you need two of those 911 washers on the bottom of those mounts. I run the 911 mounts on the rear of my trans and they work great. I can't vouch for them in the front, or to their thickness vs stock. I'd get the washers installed and the rear washers sorted out. Keep everthing loose and center the engine/trans and tighten the 4 bolts up and see how things line up.

2-3$ used, about 5$ new. you need 6. On my car I don't use the stock piece on top of the trans mount that you are using. Some do. I use two more of these washers. I figured Porsche hangs a 6 cylinder this way. I have had mine in use for a couple of years and it has been great.

Oh and each mount has 2 bolts that hold it to the body. I'd loosen those too so you can move the entire package around.

Thanks Andy! I think I have those pieces in a bin somewhere. I'll find them and give them a go.

SLITS - I thought I had a 2.0 exhaust hanger, how can you tell? The heat exchangers looked like a 2.0 (striaght pipes at the rear, and not curved), was I mistaken on that as well?

If you turn the 911 mount over it will pull the tin up and inch or so. In pulling it up it will move forward a little. Ask me how I know??

Is that bar upside down? Where bolt goes thru bar on mine the longest side goes up. Your bar does look a little different than mine tho...

Lots of good info especially washers on the 911 mount to keep the middle from pulling out of it. Easy to bend that shift rod when it becomes the front motor mount! BTDT too..

Good Luck
KP

You do have a 2.0L hanger, but it's a '75-'76. It's to long and has bolt hole in the end to mate to the triangular flange on the single pipe exhaust. It could also be an early 1.7L hanger too!

The '73-'74 hanger has slots in the ends, is shorter with a steeper angle to mate to the inside fastner (bolt) that holds the muffler to the HE flange.

I don't have images as my laptop muertoed and I lost a lot of images.

The front mounts are upside down. Also, the bolts should go up from the bottom so the threads wont get chingered up if you drag the bottom on something.

The Cap'n

I think your mechanic got some 'splainin to do.

This thread has become a classic.