I know it's a shot in the dark, but the Walker 22430 Quiet-Flow SS muffler should replace the stock Bursch "quiet" muffler. It's a bit bigger, but after measuring the original one and the available space, I think it will fit. It may be too big, but I think it'll fit.

Even if it fits, there's risk that performance will suffer or that it'll sound worse than the Bursch (low risk of that, in my opinion).

These are made from 409 stainless steel heads, shell, bushings, and louvered tubes and partitions. It carries a lifetime warranty.

22430 is original to 740, 760, 780. and 940 Volvo 1983-1995.

I'll post pictures when it arrives.

The reason I'm posting such an off-the-wall, untried idea, is that I got it at Rock Auto for $49.89, but with $40 rebate that's only $9.89 plus shipping. That's almost free, but the rebate expires 5/31. So I though maybe someone else is musing about a quieter Bursch, and this is a really low risk way to try it... until 5/31.

Thought I'd let you all know.

Let me know. I think that if it works for the Bursch i will also work for my EuroRace.

Yeah, let us know the results, cool.

I'd like to know how it turns out as well. A sound clip or youtube video...

OK. Will do. Fedex says it'll be delivered this Friday. I'll try and at least confirm the fit this weekend....

I'll try for a sound compare- Bursch vs. Walker vs. my Echo 2 cycle leaf blower... that'll be tight for this weekend but I'll see what I can do.

I must've gone through 30 mufflers to find one this close in dimensions. Here's how they compare:

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Got the muffler. This is a test to be sure I can post an audio file. I don't have a YouTube account, and I'm kinda in a hurry... If this doesn't work, I'd be glad to email my audio files to someone who has the YouTube account to be posted.

Anyway, here's my test file. It's only idle, but it's only a test.
(edit- that was easy. Now I'll get some sound revving it up, and then try and replace the muffler and retest.... later.)

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sounds about as expected.

maybe gonna be a bit louder than a bursch when you punch the gas??

jim

this sounds great!
please keep us posted....
oh and dynomax has a rebate for 75$ on rockauto
if anyone knows any dynomax mufflers that would fit our cars.. : )

I have a Turbo Dynomax on a Bursch setup its loud. Yesterday I was talking to the owner of Bursch. He suggested a Walker 17279 Ulta Flow 2" in and 2" out to have good performance with a reasonable sound. It will be interesting to hear this Volvo muffler reved up.

Bill

OK. It fits. It needed a minor distortion, which I accomplished on the rim with my trusty ball peen hammer..... I'll post a picture later when I take it off again.

It's a loose fit, and the nipple on the inlet of the muffler is designed to be welded not clamped, so it's probably leaking a bit. I'm bringing it in on Monday morning to Midas to have it tack welded in the car, and then I'll pull it again and drill the collector for the O2 sensor, then back to Midas to have everything welded fast. I went there today for clamps, and they have a guy who'll do it up right.

I replaced the Bursch tailpipe with a 90 degree pipe, and the original chrome tip fit perfectly.

Audio below. Also, after the audio a few pics, continuing on my next post. I'll re-shoot the audio after everything's welded up.

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I'm thinking it's a bit mellower. Smoother transition up to 4000. Subtle difference, but I'm liking it. I'll know for sure after it's welded and I can actually drive it.

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few more pics...
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Don't hit me...it has a more 911 sound. Smoother and higher pitched. I liked it over the Birch.

What ya talking about Willis? Sounds nothing like a 911.

Might upset a few people but the type 4 is just not a very pretty sounding engine. Not sure why. I've heard other 4 cylinder motors that sound pretty good.

Got it tack welded. Took about 10 minutes, and he didn't even charge me! Next steps are to take the assembly back off, drill for the O2 bung, and take it in so he can finish weld it and weld the bung.

When it comes off, it'll loose the clamp that's in the picture. Also, the original Bursh chrome tailpipe attaches over the rough-looking end you see in the picture.

Noise-wise- it's like night and day! The difference may be subtle when I rev it in the driveway, but on the road, it's like night and day! This muffler is MUCH quieter and smoother than the Bursh original.

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Suggestion put the valance on to make sure the tail pipe clears before the final welding.

It doesn't. It'll need some customization when the time comes. Longer muffler = tailpipe too far to the left. I did verify that the muffler clears it. Had to be twisted just right, but it'll be OK.

It's definitely not as raspy for sure. Thanks for the sound clips. And the info.

Any updates on this muffler since driving with it for a week? Any power gain/loss feeling? How about resonance at cruising RPM's? Thanks,

It's much better. It seems to pull stronger, but that may be my imagination as it moves out with much less fuss than before, seemingly less effort. Either way, I'm pleased.

I still have to drop the system, drill the hole for the O2 sensor, and then take it back for finish welding plus welding the O2 bung. It should quiet down a bit more, as the muffler was a rather loose fit onto the header pipe, and it's only tack welded now. I ended up buying a hole saw at McMaster-Carr to drill the 1" hole. Should be here tomorrow, along with new stainless hardware.

While it's off, after welding, I'll paint it. All this should happen next weekend, so I shouldn't be down too long. I'll post an update pic of the welding, bung, and painted assembly, and then try and grab a drive-by sound bite.

Jim

The only way paint will stick to stainless is if you bead or sand blast it to give the paint something to stick to.

It's 409 stainless- a low grade. Only one step up from mild steel. It's also aluminized. I thought I'd try POR 20 high temp paint ("black velvet"), but I'm open to suggestions. POR 20 also recommends a "sweep" of sand blasting on stainless.

How 'bout ceramic coating it?

I'd do that if I could find a place locally. Drop off/pick up kind of thing. I don't want the car down too long. I guess I could coat it after the season (thinking out loud). Any recommendations of a good shop?

Making some progress. I sawed off the tailpipe, just upstream from the tack weld, cut it shorter (where it goes into the muffler), and shoved it in further. This aligned it with the notch in the valance. (per Azbill's earlier suggestion). Took it in for the final weld, including attaching the bung for the O2 sensor.

I'm holding off on painting it. I'm thinking that at the end of the season, I'll have it blasted and maybe go the jet-hot coating route. I'll have to ship it somewhere to be done (no outlets around here), but at the end of the season, that'll work.

Note how the original reinforcement brace from the inlet flange mates to the new muffler. Also note the original Bursch tailpipe.

Installed pics below. A few more in the follow on post.

Jim
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Honestly I would just give it some rattlecan high temp black paint. I painted RIGHT over my polished stainless steel magnaflow muffler. One month and its still good on my honda CRX. Only prep work was a 30 seconds scuff up.

If you have to respray it every year, so what?