So, my dad bought a Hobart tr-250hf high frequency tig welder back in the 80's. The thing was used for about a week total, and has been sitting under a blanket ever since. He told me to come get it if I want it. The problem is, it has a straight gun, not the angled gun, does not have the foot pedal control, although capable of it. And no cooler for the electrode. it is high freq, so it will do aluminum, and it really does look brand new.

Looks like this model, but looks like it just came out of the original crate.

Go pick that sucker up and USE IT!!

It is worth the investment for the parts you need.

I voted "Buy the required hardware and use it" but I would just get it and start using it as is. It will do most of what you need already.

Jim

If you don't want it, I would gladly give it a good home.

Use it.

I voted to use it .......... but if it is taking up too much space, I will gladly take it off your hands and dispose of it properly .......

Should I get it and use it??. . . Hmmmmm Is the Pope Catholic??

I wish my TIG welder was a 250 (I currently have a 185 amp AC/DC). You need an AC mode to do aluminum. All TIGs are high frequency (as that's the mode when doing TIG) it's just that some are DC only whereas the good ones are both AC & DC. If you get it, don't use it in Stick mode. That will mess up the high freq. electronics and cause an unstable arc in TIG mode.

Be aware that TIG had a definite learning curve and you'll spend some time and $$$ on scrap metal learning how to "drive" it, but when you get the hang of it, you can make some pretty nice stuff for your 914 with it.

I believe the high frequency is for starting the arc and in not in continuous use while welding.

I, too, voted that you get the necessary parts/tools and use it. Of course, if there was an option of "Give it to Strawman," I definitely woulda voted for that one!

Yes , the high freq was for starting the arc, and some of them didn't have it back then I guess. It does have reverse, since he bought it for a small aluminum part he was making after 3 mile island.

No brainer

Go get it! It would make a excellent replacement for the little mig you have.

Theres nothing wrong or bad with that set up. unless it is strike start....

Personally I love the straight torch, I feel I have more control. And it will fit in places even a flexable head does not.
Buy a flexable head torch, they are worth every penny.

125 $ foot pedal and cable, very nice for total control, but really not necesary, most "production" welding ive been around is set on the dial for more constiant beads.
The set up you have is just fine to learn on as it is, spend your money now on a GOOD quality auto darkening helmet, and a whole lot of small scrap metal pieces.
I would also suggest when tig welding, to use some soft and thin animal skin gloves, youll know when the torch gets too hot.

I would recomend buying the foot control, as it will make learning much easier. Without it, you are stuck at one power level and unless you get it just right your welds will be sub-par. Your going to need a small bench grinder as well, to sharpen your tungstens as the tips get rounded and balled up as time goes by. Happy welding

I voted to keep it but the answer really depends on how deep you like to go in your car hobby. do you know how to MIG? do you have a MIG? if you did, realistically, how much would you use it? garage space? how much are you willing to spend to get it going? I voted keep because I would use the heck out of that thing. your answer should be based on what you like to do or what you see yourself doing.

I agree with all these guy's, but would add, practice, practice, practice! And if you are intimidated, take a course at your local city college, heck your teacher will most likely help you set it up and get the hang of it. Lets face it the tig is way better for body work any way.

Is TIG really much better than MIG welding for body panels? Why is this?

-Rob

Way better heat control. I don't see a ac-dc switch or any gas bottle. Also you will need at least a 50 amp 220 breaker.

TIG doesn't heat the adjacent metal as much as MIG, so there's less distortion. It's a much slower process too, so for some applicatons TIG isn't practical.

Get what you need for it and practice, practice, practice. TIG is like oxy-acetylene with an electric arc supplying the heat. It's as much art form as it is anything. For what it's worth, my welding instructor said, "if you get good at TIG you can get a welding job just about anywhere". Especially if you learn to TIG upside down!! I am however still working on horizontal right side up.
Cheers, Elliot

I think tigging upside down is easier than migging upside down because there is so much less heat and filler control. Or no filler with tig.

MIG is the easiest frontwise, backwards, verticle, horizontal, upside down or inside out. That's why it's called the "glue gun of welders".

Start a "welding club" in the east bay and take a collection to fill out the hardware?

The welds are also easier to grind down, not as hard.

I guess I should have said in the first post, I can tig, mig and stick weld--sorta. Believe it or not, I suck at mig the most. I've never done aluminum, so thats my first learning curve. The welder in the pic is the same model, not the actual welder. It does have ac and dc and start controls on it. Without the foot pedal i believe it is a scratch start but i don't know, it has a rotary turntable that was used for the original job. The Miller i learned on had the pedal so i'm used to that. And if that wasn't enough, looks like I might have just picked up a large Miller MIG welder as well. This thing has the cooler and ac/dc and is set up for aluminum right now. That one is too big for the garage i think. Probably try to trade that one for a Holbart Handler 110 or something.

So, me thinks i'll be selling my little HF flux wire feed and my 200 amp stick welder real soon.