Just an FYI -
I Pulled my motor last night using the furniture dolly technique listed over on the PP site – it worked SO well. Took an hour or so to make sure everything was undone (wiring/cv’s/etc). Got a bit hung up on the shift bar (tail shifter). Also decided to remove the heater control valves off of the heat exchangers for better access to the upper nuts on the motor mount bar. I then sprayed the tranny and engine mount bolts with some PB Blaster (just in case…), and rolled the engine out 10 minutes later!

The last time I did this it was a cluster - using lengths of all rod, balancing things on a floor jack and jack stands, etc.. The PP way was not only rediculously easy, but I can push the motor around the shop effortlessly. if you are getting ready to do a pull, check out the tech article. You wont be sorry.

Now, getting it back in ........ hmmm......

Have a good weekend everyone

its going to be a lot heavier when you go back to install......

are you slapping this into the ginter mobile?

Do you have a link to the tech article?

Yep - motor is going to Mr Gint.

Those extra two cylinders cant weigh that much more.... can they?

You Bet:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...engine_drop.htm

I've been thinking long and hard about dropping to more thoroughly inspect and clean up engine bay/hell hole/etc. But I have this vision of never getting it back in.....

I like McMark's article here better. Look to the top of the page and click on 914 Info then when the next page loads click on Technical Articles Then click on the 4 cylinder engine drop article by Mark DeBernardi...

but they do...
technically its only an additional 150lbs..
but it seems like more

brant

For those who have done it before... would something like this be easier than the furniture dollies?

150 lbs is a lot when you are working alone.
Let us know if you need a hand.
You're engine is probably so clean, I won't even need gloves.

I've used that Pelican article quite a few times.

I just put my motor back IN.. by myself... It was a tad bit tougher.

I prefer getting the rear in the air by putting 2 10 x 10s under the tires. This frees up my jackstands for the engine.

I ended up using the balance point after getting the dolly out of there...

I got one of Racer Chris' (Tangerine) engine/floor jack plates, and that makes it really slick. I've also made some sheet metal guides that go over the inner trailing arm nuts so the engine tin doesn't hang up on them.

Props to the Pelican article on engine removal! I recently used it too to pull engine/tranny by myself in about 2 hours after disconnecting everything.

I'm also a big fan of the Pelican method. You need two big jacks, but there's no need to balance the engine/tranny assembly and it's safely (for both you and your engine) performed by one person - both dropping the engine and re-installation.

I didn't know it was the Pelican method, but I've used the same method with my V8. I didn't use the furniture dolly, but mounted casters on the cross bar. The V8 is taller and that gives a little more room. I can also use a single jack in the center to lift the whole car.