Replacing the ball joint on my early style (split end) 911 strut. The PO simply (and wrongly) put a "regular" bolt all the way through the BJ retaining hole with a nut on the end. As I now insect the threads on one side of the hole, they look rusty and may just be gone. My first impulse is to "chase" the threads and see if they are still there...still usable. Should I first soak them with something like PB Blaster? Then, should I use a correctly threaded bolt to "chase " the threads or use something else?
If the treads are gone, can I use a helicoil in that area, and can it be done with the strut on the car?
Full Version: Chasinh Threads...Helicoils & an Early 911 Strut
Use a tap to chase the threads .... period! A helicoil or timecert wouldn't hurt but it has to be drilled straight. Timecert is the strongest.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
Thanks. You think there's any way to drill "straight" using hand tools on a strut still hanging on the car?
Use a tap to chase the threads .... period! A helicoil or timecert wouldn't hurt but it has to be drilled straight. Timecert is the strongest.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
QUOTE(SLITS @ May 23 2010, 10:33 AM) 
Use a tap to chase the threads .... period! A helicoil or timecert wouldn't hurt but it has to be drilled straight. Timecert is the strongest.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
Where do I measure to see if I have 3" or 3.5" spacing? Can I do this with the brakes mounted?
Use a tap to chase the threads .... period! A helicoil or timecert wouldn't hurt but it has to be drilled straight. Timecert is the strongest.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
QUOTE(SLITS @ May 23 2010, 10:33 AM)
Use a tap to chase the threads .... period! A helicoil or timecert wouldn't hurt but it has to be drilled straight. Timecert is the strongest.
A longer fastener with a nut on the outside is not the worst idea I've heard.
I don't have any early 911 3" spacing struts.
Actually, Slits be wrong. You clean the threads with a thread chaser. It will remove only the barest minimum of metal, and will (more or less) reform the threads. The less metal removed the better chance you have of ending up with usable threads.
As for drilling the hole straight, you come in from the unthreaded side and you'll have the correct alignment for the insert.
As for the caliper mounting spacing, you measure the centerline of the 2 mounting holes, or the corresponding edges, which is easier.
HOWEVER, and I've said this before, you MUST check the fit of the ball joint BEFORE you spend any time trying to fix the bolt hole. If the joint drops right in after any burrs are removed, the strut is junk. The ball joint will be loose in there no matter how hard you wish it weren't. There is NO FIX. Well, maybe you could get it metal sprayed and bored to size, but you could probably buy a brand new strut for less money.
The Cap'n
As for drilling the hole straight, you come in from the unthreaded side and you'll have the correct alignment for the insert.
As for the caliper mounting spacing, you measure the centerline of the 2 mounting holes, or the corresponding edges, which is easier.
HOWEVER, and I've said this before, you MUST check the fit of the ball joint BEFORE you spend any time trying to fix the bolt hole. If the joint drops right in after any burrs are removed, the strut is junk. The ball joint will be loose in there no matter how hard you wish it weren't. There is NO FIX. Well, maybe you could get it metal sprayed and bored to size, but you could probably buy a brand new strut for less money.
The Cap'n
Gotcha. I have 3" spacing on the caliper mounts. I'm attempting the new strut right now (tapered pin). The entrance/exit holes on either side of the strut seems to be the same size. I took the old pin and tapped it in from either end. Either direction seems to be a nice tight fit. In the drawings I've seen, the nut seems to be on the forward end of the strut, right?
Actually, Slits be wrong. You clean the threads with a thread chaser. It will remove only the barest minimum of metal, and will (more or less) reform the threads. The less metal removed the better chance you have of ending up with usable threads.
As for drilling the hole straight, you come in from the unthreaded side and you'll have the correct alignment for the insert.
As for the caliper mounting spacing, you measure the centerline of the 2 mounting holes, or the corresponding edges, which is easier.
HOWEVER, and I've said this before, you MUST check the fit of the ball joint BEFORE you spend any time trying to fix the bolt hole. If the joint drops right in after any burrs are removed, the strut is junk. The ball joint will be loose in there no matter how hard you wish it weren't. There is NO FIX. Well, maybe you could get it metal sprayed and bored to size, but you could probably buy a brand new strut for less money.
The Cap'n
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ May 29 2010, 12:42 PM)
Actually, Slits be wrong. You clean the threads with a thread chaser. It will remove only the barest minimum of metal, and will (more or less) reform the threads. The less metal removed the better chance you have of ending up with usable threads.
As for drilling the hole straight, you come in from the unthreaded side and you'll have the correct alignment for the insert.
As for the caliper mounting spacing, you measure the centerline of the 2 mounting holes, or the corresponding edges, which is easier.
HOWEVER, and I've said this before, you MUST check the fit of the ball joint BEFORE you spend any time trying to fix the bolt hole. If the joint drops right in after any burrs are removed, the strut is junk. The ball joint will be loose in there no matter how hard you wish it weren't. There is NO FIX. Well, maybe you could get it metal sprayed and bored to size, but you could probably buy a brand new strut for less money.
The Cap'n
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.