Hi all,
I have a 71 with the wiper knob (not arm) in the dash. The wipers stopped working at some point last year. Looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see any fuses to check, and the switch goes directly to the motor. All the fuses look fine anyway.

How does the dash switch come out? I'm assuming there is some sort of attachment behind the dash although I can't get my fingers behind there. The switch mechanism doesn't seem firmly attached to the dash as it turns a bit when I turn the switch on and off.

The manual says the fuel tank needs to be removed to access the wiper motor. Looking at the car, this is probably true. Anything else I should check before pulling the fuel tank?

Also, since I may be pulling the fuel tank, I should probably look at my noisy fuel pump. It's some sort of Holly and makes a lot of noise although it has not caused me any trouble. It's been relocated to the front trunk beside the spare tire by the previous owner.

What pumps are recommended for a 3.0L carb motor?
Can I move it back to the engine area? I've heard that there may be vapour lock troubles but since I'm in Canada I don't have to deal with too much heat.

One last question (third), I've noticed a lot of space available to move the front wheel out. Any real issues with adding maybe 15mm of spacer to the front wheels (each side)? Right now the track is about 30mm wider in the rear, but I measured it from the centre caps of the front and rear wheels. I'm not used to non symmetrical front and rear tires, so I'm not sure if that's the proper way to measure. I couldn't find a note about the real track width in the Hayes manual. Any recommendations on spacers?

Thanks everyone!

Topic covered too many times?

Anyway, I just ordered a C&B rotary fuel pump and planning to put it back in the engine bay whenever I get around to it.

On the switch, rotate the knob counterclockwise and it will unscrew. You will see a round bezel with a couple of indentations. You can use needle nose pliers to remove it and the switch will come out of the back of the dash.

Wiper motor ... fuel tank and fresh air blower assembly to get at it. Wiper motor is fuse #8 or #9 counting from the driver's door. Need to be checked with a VOM. Can look good and still be bad.

Fuel pump ... anything that will supply sufficient volume at 3.5 psi ... you may want to invest in a pressure regulator. Mount it with rubber isolators and some of the noise will be reduced.

Spacers are used. Not a problem as long as the wheel studs / wheel bolts are long enough to ensure a secure attachment.

So, there you have my opinions.

Yep, topics have been covered many times.

Finally had some time to look into these more plus didn't want to take the car off the road.

So I took off the wiper switch and it seemed fine. Took out the wiper mechanism and motor. The wiper arm internals were quite well rusted but did move by hand. Still cleaned them out and lubed them. They move more freely now but that wasn't the issue. I was able to get the motor moving for a very short time by cleaning and bending the internal "wiper return" contacts. But now the motor does not run at all even when removed from the wiper mechanism. Do people try and repair the motors or just get a new one?

Anyone have a wiper motor they want to get rid of?

On a positive note I was able to clean out the fresh air motor fan and get it working again. It works a bit strange... the middle setting seems to be high and the highest setting seems to slow down then stop. Probably something to do with the internal resistors in the motor connector, but I couldn't figure out how to get the fan apart (removed the clips but seemed like the halves were glued together). I never knew there was a little light on the dash for the fan control.

Even added a screen to the fresh air inlet to try to keep some of the crap out of the fan. The under tank area looks not too bad. Seems the seam sealer has lifted in a couple placed and is collecting crap. I was able to wipe off a lot of the rust coloured crap that must have been from the rusting wiper mechanism.

I have a new fuel pump and will be putting it the back under the engine shelf (carbs).

Finished putting in the new fuel pump. That gas tank is easier to remove than put back in.



Click to view attachment

ok adding a screen is a good idea, the later cars came with a plastic screen and require a different rubber seal around the air box (box to cowl seal) than the cars without the screen. I have gone further and added aluminum window bug screen (painted black) on top of the stock screen, the stock screen still lets too much stuff get in and get cuaght.

AA now makes a reporduction cowl/air box sal with provision for the screen.

this seal is CRITICAl to keeping water out of the dash, off your feet, the floor boards and even keeping water from rusting out the gas tank (where teh felt strips sit on the tank, they soak up the water that drips in.

make sure the seal is tight and pour water on the out side and confrim no leaks before you re-install the gas tank this seal must be leak tight, it can be difficult to fit it right, make sure it seals.

also make sure the wiper shaft bushing extend above the little wells in the cowl, the shafts must come out of the bushing above the top of the wells, the wells hold water, if the shaft is adjusted too low, water will pool up and then leak between the shaft and the bushing, making a rusty mess. use the nuts to adjust the stick out hieght to be enought ot be above any "water line" in teh well


for teh fan speed, the probelm more than likely rests in the switch. this switch can be removed fromt eh dash and should be cleaned up (some times they get too melted and are not fixable) there you will find the contacts for the three speeds of the fan, they are likekly the probelm, the contacts get dirty the arms gets bent and dirty contact can cause more overheating and melting of the switch parts.


the wipre switch is removed by removing the bexel nut, after you un-screw the knob (regular right hand threads) you will se the aluminum belzel around the shaft, that is a nut, there are two little notches in it to be used with a pliers to turn the bezle, it will un-screw then teh wiper switch can be removed from teh back of the dash, all the dash knobs are held the same way. some fine needle nose pliers can work to turn teh bezel


the fuel pump back int he stock location is great, I dont like the idea of it in the front trunk as it was, to much risk of cargo bashing into it (unless it is some how sheilded) if it were to be kept up front, under the gas tank is a better location, but your stock location is also just fine.

have fun