the small metal piece sticking out the bottom, can it be opened? if not how should i go about fixing this? should i build onto it with an extension and put another wire there or should i cut into that piece and put a wire directly into it? or possibly just solder it?

anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it?

carefully hack saw the crimped metal all around, try not to touch the underlaying insulation of the wire you want a anular cut near teh housing to reduce the length of the crimped section, this should expose some good insulation and wire. now you can be able to solder a new wire to teh old one after you trim it. then heat shrink sleave it all up. this is how I have done it and it works!! I suggest fine teflon insulated wire is used.

Yes it can be done, mine looked very much like yours before repair.
you can probably only do this repair once, so take your time

solder will NOT stick to that oily wire end, so use some good contact cleaner or laquier thinner or both to complete clean up the oil on it, then tin each wire end before soldering them together,

if you have any other vlave, besure to re-inforce teh original wire with some short lengths of shrink sleave at teh crimp a layer or two of sleave will act as a strain relief to prevent sharp bends, that is what does these wires in.

also use a high grade repair wire that has thin strand, thick strands will not be a flexable, more likely to re-break.



good luck, take your time, go slow, clean it well beofre solder you dont want ot monkey around with a dirt solder joint as it wont work, and you will over heat teh wire trying to get it to work.



you aosl could take the whole unit part and remove the crimp an dtry to re-wire that way, but give the first appouch a try first.

these are salvageble !!!!!!!!


PS the wire must NOT touch the metal can nor crimp. only insulated wire can touch!!! else you short it out!!!

Solder it, though some will tell you that solder joints are not good for automotive wiring, but I forget why. You have solder joints in the 12 and 14 pin connectors in your wiring harness.

solder works pretty darn good , used in cars, airplanes, boats etc... much more reliable than press on connections . just have to do it right, no cold joints, clean joint, pre-tin both ends, dont use too much heat, etc...... The brain is full of solder joints as are wiper motor, head light motor fan motors, starter alternator, and the connectors mentioned. You car raido is soldered togther also.

NASA used solder on the moon rocket, and that saw a lot more vibration than your car will see. (you should see and hear the shakers NASA uses to test for thing like this!) they sound just like a rocket launch.

For reference sake, what is that part?

Its an Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR) for D-Jet fuel injection systems.

cold air valve, it opens to allow extra air into intake when motor is cold, the extra air bypasses the throotle body. if the valve stays shut, the car wont idle fast enough when cold unless you set the idle screw to much, but then when warm the car will idle to fast. if the thing stays open your idle will be too fast when warmed up.

all it is is a heater element that moves a bimetallic spring that opens or closes the vlave. the single wire is hot when ignition is on, the ground is thrut eh metal body (hence the wire must be insulated from teh body)