'74 2.0

I have always adjusted the valves with the engine/trans in the car and one rear wheel on the ground (the only procedure I have ever used. Currently, I have the engine/trans out of the car (while the body is at the paint shop) and would like to adjust the valves today. Are there any tips to doing it this way? how do I go about it as far as turning engine to tdc ect.. ???

Look in the classic threads for my valve adjustment procedure. You can turn the engine over with a 13mm socket on an extension, using the bolts that hod the fan to the hub (or the single bolt that holds the hub to the crankshaft). The Cap'n

this will be the easiest adjustment you will ever make!

I would think the adjustment is the same except no body parts in the way. Don't enjoy how easy the adjustment will go.,,

Ditto on the easiest valve adjustment ever. You are going to wonder WTH happened the next time yo do it laying on your back with oil from the open valve covers dripping on your face and seemingly everything in the world between your hand and that valve you are trying to get to. Pull the fan off, but a wrench on the crank, and go for it!

Zach

..........pull the spark plugs first, makes the job much easier...and replace the plugs, easy....firing order 1-4-3-2-, conferm TDC mark on fan....this is the best and easiest way , engine out of car...and considering it is going to be SOOOOO easy, to adjust the valves.....use the old way of adjusting by firing order position instesd of (the opposite cylinder/rocking method).....WHICH BY THE WAY....is not always accurate with certain types of RADICAL camshafts.......

Oh? Please elaborate. I've used it with RSR cams, cams in an SCCA GT2 914/6, and full on VW drag race cams, never had a problem. IIRC, the heel of the camshaft is always on the base circle.

The Cap'n

.............elaborated a little....and I thought I,d here about this ....The problem with accuracy seems to be with radical camshaft engines and camshafts with a VERY SMALL base circle /camshaft diamenter/regrind., and with aysemetrical cam lobe profiles.......with aysemetrical profiles the intake lobe/vs / exhaust lobe ramps, as they blend into the base circle are different..(naturally)....a small base circle /regrind cam leaves a very small margin for lash adjustment errors.(when using opposing lobes to designate the one to be adjusted).....generally the valve lash will be larger....than if adjusted the firing order, one cylinder at a time method.......from your discription of engines serviced, they are mostly O.E.M. camshaft specification/installation /diamenter/base circle cams...and have plenty of meat/diamenter for the base circle. As I stated the problem occurs with radical camshafts and small diamenter base circle regrinds.

I agree with ME733, the only way to be certain the valve is on the seat when firing is to set them at TDC, this is especially true when set cold (at near zero lash) with steel pushrods