Hi - Yep, I'm the new guy. I've been milling around here for a little while and I've come to the determination that there's no way in hell I could tackle a 914 project without a forum like this! Pretty passionate site!

Anyway, I've had Porshe blood since I was in 5th grade and have finally gotten to a point where I'm ready for my first project (20+ years later). I contemplated 914, 944, 951, 911s projects. However, I soon narrowed it down to 914 or 944 which really wasn't going to be much of a battle since I've always been a bigger fan of the 914 and would probably say that the 914 is more desireable to me as the years go by.

So. I've started my search for a 914 I can begin work on. Living in the Northeast (grew up 15 minutes from Walkins Glen), I'm looking for a rusty 914 that has already been addressed to a point. One that may have had some restoration work already done and probably ready for another restoration. I'm looking for an engine that does not have mice living in any of the hoses.

I've found a 76 2.0 on craiglist that is a slant nose car that needs tranny and floor pan work. (claimed other hell holes are fine)

Here are my rookie questions. sorry for the long intro...

1 - Are the roof pillar panels always attached to the left and rear quarter panels? Many 914s I see have rust at the bottom of the roof pillars so I'm not sure if the fix is to replace the entire quarter panel. Also the 914 I'm looking at now has the panel painted same color as the car. I want to put the black canvas look back on it. Is this hard to do?

2 - I am not a fan of the slant nose that's been installed. I would replace with the traditional fendors. When a slant nose is installed is it just the light wiring that I would need to redo or do you think the bumper attachments would have also been affected some how. Again rookie question.

3 - Here is a pic of the car I'm contemplating buying...



Oh and thanks for any help or advise or suggestions! I have a feeling this site will be my second home once I get going!

I would steer clear of rusty 914's unless you just have a passion to bring one back. It can be very expensive. The more traditional way is to get the best 914 you can find and afford , then spend your time driving instead of repairing rusty areas.
Anyway, welcome and good luck.
Tom

Thanks...yes definitely trying to find the best I can afford. It seems in the Northeast the 914s I've looked at so far all have rust. I'm trying to find one that has at least had the rust issue addressed once in it's lifetime.

Having grown up in Binghamton, NY, I know what NY winters will do to the 914. If I was still living in that area I would be very wary of any 914 from the northeast. You must absolutely check out the battery area all the way down into those "hidden parts." That area including suspension attachment will be a "bear" to fix unless you have lots of money to throw at it or are especially talented in fixing such basic chassis areas.

Take your time and find someone in the area who is knowledgeable in 914 rust and knows what to look for. You don't want your first "teener" experience to be a bad one because they really are delightful machines.

Dave

This is just my opion but 99% of the cars on the east would be cut up for scrap here on the west. What we cut up here is worth more than you will spend on a runner there. We can still buy rollers for under $500 out here. Even at that I cut up 8 cars before I found an acceptable tub. The parts for the long and rear trunk repairs cost more than shipping from Ca. I shipped a good tub to Ga for $895.
If I lived in the east I would watch the classifieds, have people out here do PPI's, take a vacation to fly out and drive back. I should be able to do all of that for under 3K. If you do that I will be glad to help with the PPI's near here.

Thanks...perhaps I will widen my search and put some thought into one from out west.

I looked at one yesterday that should have been on life support for $3200. I've been searching for a couple of months now and if I can't find one that's had the rust issue addressed already I think I'm going to start looking at making a trip.

First - #2 & 3 - I agree with the others on looking for one with least rust (ha-ha) & least "extra work" to do - so if you don't want a slant nose - don't consider any & add PITA work to your list. There is an 914 buyer assessment sheet & scoring sheet on the first 2 links at this website, & tons of great info there & if you go up to the base /914/Classic page:
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

also see p914.com

#1 - L&R replacement sail panels are available from Restoration Design which only covers the sail & top of fender behind doors where they typically get rust bubbles (see member vendors on here for link to their website) - as well as many other rust repair parts -
http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=914

Also, AutoAtlanta, CAMP914, 914 Appearance & Performance, Performance Products/Automotion (Ekler's now owns), Sierra Madre Collection & Dealers still have the sail & rollbar black vinyl leatherette material (pebble finish) to redo the panels; & there are used & maybe new/NOS chrome trim pieces out there for finishing it off - if they're missing from a particular car.

It all just takes time & money to fix 'em up!

A decent driver 73-74 2.0 can be had for $5-10k needing minimal work, but there's ALWAYS HIDDEN ISSUES & PROBLEMS, even if it's a "dry state 914" (CA, NV, AZ, NM, CO, UT).

Obviously do all the usual drive the car & have someone follow to look for "crabbing" from misalignment or bent uni-body, have good 914 mechanic check all mechanicals, do operation of all lights, wipers, features, etc., doors, lids, headlights, top on/off/stow) & check proper joint/panel/seam alignments & levels to each other, eyeball for straight or repaired body panels, tap around for bondo & use the magnet test too, etc. as you would on any used car.

But also look at them all over & carefully for rust - including the longs (behind the rocker panels), hell hole & pull out the sound/heat pad on the firewall to check for rust there - esp. at the bottom along the engine shelf & below the relay board in the engine bay (opp. battery), F&R trunks, underbelly (even behind steering rack cover & esp. below thee windshield washer bottle), under/behind the headlight boxes, behind the F&R bumpers/valances, along windshield frame & door jambs & sail-to-fender area, doors top/bottom/F&R faces incl. pulling off the outer door seals on the doors & crawling under to check for rust areas, & assume that any topside or other "minor rust bubbles" mean larger rust areas to cut-out & patch-in sheetmetal panels or patch pieces (welded in) once the paint is removed, etc., etc., etc.!

Then make up a "punch list" of items to adjust offer price & negotiate, and move on if seller is too optimistic or hard line on it being perfect - NONE are, except maybe a lifetime low-mile garage queen or full shell up resto!

Mine had a 3 yr old $6500+ ($20+k today) rolling resto/rustoration in 1980-83 (incl. engine & transaxle overhauls), then went on blocks in my "sunny SoCal" garage in 5/85 when a ditz hit it & mashed F&R, stayed there for 25 yrs. & came out with major rust issues NOT there when she went in!

Happy Hunting!

Thanks a lot. There is a ton of great info there. I'm going to print that out and make a good check list to go through as I look at my next 914. Much appreciated.

Hey man, im selling a solid roller, already has new floors. Car was totally soda blasted and primed, fenders are cut for flares. Its a nice project. PM me for info, im in NJ.

Pics

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Its also listed on the club site if you want to see more pics.