Anyone have any idea how to get the Castle nut off the rear axle? I am trying to replace my drivers side axle and can't get the nut off. And yes...i've removed the split/cotter pin

Any help is appreciated!

Scott

Leverage ...

I broke Two 1/2 breaker bars trying to remove nuts. Spray

with penatrating lube for a few days and then with tourch

just heat the NUT not axle and use long cheeter bar on

the breaker bar. My ckeeter is 4 ft. Good Luck

Be sure to leave the wheel and tire on, but remove the center cap to gain access. Put the weight of the car on the tire. Chock a couple of tires, and reach in through the center hole with an extension. Use a 6 point socket. Use a jack stand to rest the head of the rachet or breaker bar on, so you can stand (bounce) on the handle if necessary. Lots of leverage. Do this after soaking for a few days with penetrating oil.

I tried to get mine off with the tire off, and a 2 x 2 oak going from a lug bolt to the ground. Couldn't do it. Kept lifting the car up. Ended up cutting the castle nut off with my dremel and about a dozen cutting disks. Got it most of the way and then broke it with a cold chisel. You may still have to do something like this, but try it through the center cap first.

I went down to the local rental yard and rented a 3/4" electric impact gun!

Make sure you have the hub blocked so it wont turn!

I always spell acetolyne wrong.

After reading so many of these threads I made a simple tool.
its a 2' lenght of 2.5" angle iron that i drilled a pair of holes in it so I could mount to the hub with the wheel off using the wheel lugs...ensuring that the hub wont spin.
I thow a map or evan propane torch on the nut for oh about 4-5 mins
then use a breaker bar with a 3' extension (pipe), *SNAP* comes off every time.

There's something rediculous like 380 FPT on that nut.

Kroil and an impact wrench

Yup. Just more grunt. PB Blaster liberally applied for like two days in a row and on the third day, curse like a sailor being castrated, crank on it with all you've got and it should loosen up.

:Dang it that was suppose to be an I agree smilie ...... Did mine with an 18 volt Dewalt

I believe your problem lies in the 1/2 inch breaker bar that you are using , I have even seen a real good MAC bar break off the attachment nub. Heat it up with a mapp if available , try using the hammer cold chisel method to see if you can budge it some , then maybe try the breaker bar . You may have to go upto a 3/4 bar and socket to get it off. These nuts will vary from car to car as to the effort needed to get off. Your angle on the lug nut holes is not a bad idea , you just need more ummph than what your'e applying, they do come off I have removed several , but I used a good 1/2 inch impact and socket and I done it with the arm and all off the car / some on the car.
Some folks have used a dremel to cut a slot in thenut down to the point where a cold chisel was used to break the nut to get it off , a little more time consumming but effective. Good luck...

Jack / Jaxdream

I just had this problem last week!

Snap-on impact gun/PB blaster. I think the PO had overtorqued this thing on mine. My Sanborn (sp) rated at 600ft/lbs didn't do anything to it.

Put more CFM to the air tool.

I am of the 4 ft or longer cheater. 32mm 6 point socket. I like the jack stand under the pivot of the breaker bar. VERY SMART.

When you are standing on the cheater pipe pushing against the garage ceiling have a friend whack the socket/nut/hub assy with a 2 lb hammer.
If that don't break it loose you are really screwed.

Great suggestions everyone! I am a close to 260lbs so I know I have enough weight....now I just have to get the right length lever and soak the !@#$# nut in Penetrating oil for a little while.

All this raises an interesting question.....why use a castlenut if it takes this much effort to get the @#$ loose? I know I know....safety!

Thanks again!

Scott

Because you certainly don't want that nut coming off.