So car runs good everything is checked that I can check and test. Now it idles fine once warm and a little rough when cold but my problem is that the ecu now does nothing. The air idle control screw works sort of but really only when it is pushed all the way in it wants to die. No vaccuum leaks or gas problems I have 2.3 approx CO. Timming is good
What else to check?
Full Version: idle with no control
There is a real simple test for leaks at idle. If the idle adjustment serew on the TB makes no deffereance, you have a leak.
guess im lost cause they are all new hoses and it runs great idles at 900 no problems. but as soon as i close the TB adjustment screw it it basically dies. i did just check it and it does affect it a little bit probably about 200-300 rpm up or down. so its not 0 adjustment. but the ecu does nothing. maybe 50rpms it looks like
QUOTE(mipstien @ Jun 21 2010, 02:43 PM) 
guess im lost cause they are all new hoses and it runs great idles at 900 no problems. but as soon as i close the TB adjustment screw it it basically dies. i did just check it and it does affect it a little bit probably about 200-300 rpm up or down. so its not 0 adjustment. but the ecu does nothing. maybe 50rpms it looks like
It's supposed to die if the screw is turned in. No air=no runny. 2-300 sounds normal, the further out you go with the screw, the more you need to richen the ECU knob. Timing will affect idle a LOT as well.
Are you talking about the adjustment knob on the ecu, or the screw on the throttle body? I'm confused by the word "pushed". Nothing pushes. They turn.
don't read so much in to it lol.
twisted turned just replace push with twist i guess.
twisted turned just replace push with twist i guess.
Mpstein
It could be a couple of things. I had a bad AAV and it was not timed correctly, then when timed and the AAV in and working, the ECU actually started showing how it could control mixture, and the TB needle valve actually worked to set mine at 950 rpm. But there was one more problem.
Check your plug wires. cyl3 wire needs to be AWAY from the MPS. The power to the plug is so strong that it screws up the MPS so that it kills acceleration from idle.
Mine died all the time when I had the wire near it.
Routed it under the tb tubes to the injectors last week.
I drove the car 100 miles today and it never missed a beat.
I am driving it hard and she comes back for more. That wire can be a real killer.
Good luck!
John
It could be a couple of things. I had a bad AAV and it was not timed correctly, then when timed and the AAV in and working, the ECU actually started showing how it could control mixture, and the TB needle valve actually worked to set mine at 950 rpm. But there was one more problem.
Check your plug wires. cyl3 wire needs to be AWAY from the MPS. The power to the plug is so strong that it screws up the MPS so that it kills acceleration from idle.
Mine died all the time when I had the wire near it.
Routed it under the tb tubes to the injectors last week.
I drove the car 100 miles today and it never missed a beat.
I am driving it hard and she comes back for more. That wire can be a real killer.
Good luck!
John
what do you mean the ecu does nothing?
if the idle screw is not affecting the idle then you are to lean...
here is that link again
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/idle.htm
it idles well at 900rpm, so what do you want it to do? are you just wanting to raise it a bit?
if the idle screw is not affecting the idle then you are to lean...
here is that link again
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/idle.htm
it idles well at 900rpm, so what do you want it to do? are you just wanting to raise it a bit?
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