OK, we have a lot solved, but the more I can solve on my own nickel, the better my wallet likes it.

Fuel pump pressure is exactly 30 - Set by Skip the Wonder Mechanic -
FPR indicates 30 ALL RANGES OF RPMS.

Timing is 27BTDC at 3500 - Set by Skip

Gap is .017 Dwell is 42 - Set by me and checked by Skip

Idle is DEAD NUTS at 950 - Set by Skip

New AAV

New PCV

All new hoses from AA - no leaks

Mostly all new high pressure fuel hoses and clamps, 3 long ones in the engine bay to go.

New elbows from Dr. 914 last month.

ANY IDEA ON WHAT WILL MAKE THE ENGINE BREAK UP A BIT AT 4200?????

PULLS LIKE CRAZY TO 4200 RPM!!!!

If I am light on the pedal it will rev to 5000 but no guts like to 4200, but it is eminently drivable. I took it for a 50 mile spin tonight and up to 90 more than once on freeways. On the 91, 55 and 22 in case someone saw an orange flash at sunset. I got almost 25 to the gallon! But guts to 5000 is my goal.

(Shifted at 4200 the whole time. 90 was below 3600 rpm, BTW. That was wild fun!)

Is it possible that the hoses on the fuel pump are too long and I am starving it??

Skip did remove a kink on the return line to the Y junction, and he will move the pump to the steering rack in the fall, when I have the dough.

IDEAS ARE COVETED! NONE REJECTED OUT OF HAND!

Thanks!

John
avidfanjpl

Hmmm, I would have said ignition off the bat, but it sounds like you've been through that.

Is it possible that the timing advance has an issue in the dist? The weights hitting something, or the like?

Interesting idea, but the dizzy was put back together with all parts checking perfectly.

Even got new trigger points. Just a weird thing. I am unable to find an explanation.

The wire inside the dizzy is fine too. points are lubed. Even have the dust cover over the points/advance.

I may buy another dizzy that should be coming available, but mine is in really good shape.

Thanks,

John

If the dizzy was bad, you'd probally see drifting in the dwell. Maybe try getting the points set closer to 47?

I agree with Tod. Reset the dwell. Forget the feeler gauge. Distributors are different, so use dwell, not point gap. Its a guessing game, but you'll get it right on the money after a few tries. BTW, dwell is inversly proportional to point gap (ie-decrease gap to increase dwell). 42 is prolly not low enough to make that much difference, but,....... 5* dwell changes timing also. Get the dwell set perfectly, readjust timing and drive it again.

OK.

So, increasing the dwell to 47, or something above 42 will be better than going to say .015 gap?

Thanks!

John

My '75 2.0 stumbles around 4100 RPM - replacing the ECU with the proper model for my engine moved the stumble to 3200, no other change. BTW, I get 29mpg, mountain driving, and am still burning a little rich.

Points are floating.

If you're using the 010 points, upgrade to the 011's, they have a heavier spring.

Edit:

Correction, I think stock points are 01052's? or 51's? Can't remember, either way, the 01011's should be a direct replacement.

I will check the points I got from Pelican and check the 01011's out.

Thanks!

J

If using a feeler gauge to do this makes you happy, try .016 then recheck dwell. Use nothing but Bosch points!

To get the higher number aka 47, you'll be decreasing the gap in the points. You can try the next thinnest feeler gauge to get that. I use the gap of ".018" to get me 48 on the dwell. ".016/.406" gets me 50 on my car. But, you'll still need to verify your point setting with the dwell meter. With your dwell meter, black wire gets grounded to something like the fan housing and the green will go onto on of the prongs on the coil where you have the condensor wire. That is the negative side on the coil. Your black and purple igintion wire should also be attached to the negative side. Black/ or Black and red goes to possitive side of the coil. My 73 just has black (red paint might of worn off).
Like Curt mentioned, you'll have to retime it. Take off both vaccume lines from the vaccume canister side, and plug them. Rotating the distrubutor counter clock wise advances the timing. Clockwise retards it. Timing light; red/+ onto the red + terminal of the battery. Black you can ground on the fan housing. Then attach it to the #1 spark plug. Rev to 3500 rmp and adjust your distributor accordingly. Then shut off the car and tighten it back down. Some timing lights have an advance on it where you can set it 27 degrees. Hope that helps.

Bad TPS?

........I agree,..... could be point bounce. get some new BOSCH points. set point gap to .016 ths.....and make sure the distributor advance is working-properly. If you have a rev-limiting rotor button., and it looks old and tired, get a new one , they have the limiting RPM on them.

Run the 030 rotor if I remember correctly or get a new rev limit rotor. They fail after X-amount of use.

I am going to check the TPS first and get it set according to the instructions, then check the dwell, and set the points accordingly. Then timing. Points are brand new and lubed.

I took it for a ride at lunch, and it is still breaking up, so these things I can check.

I know how to do the timing with my new light, but it is a new but primitive light.

I have good marks on the fan for timing, so I know where to go. Hoses off to get it done.

Tonight when it cools off here. Right now it would be too hot in my garage.

THANKS!

John
avidfanjpl

FOUND IT!

TPS WAS 1 click off.

But!

Coil wire was loose! DAMN THOSE BERU WIRES.

Need to get myself a new set of BOSCH.

The Beru's work loose in real heat. This is the second time.

The car revs to the NEW rev limiter, but I am gutless.

It scares me good to go past 5000, but I did it twice way past 5000 just to be sure.

ALL OTHER SHIFTS were at 5000 and flawless! What a sound! The pickle sounds sweet!

My neighbors must hate me for the racket of revving and driving in and out of a gated community at high revs.

SCREW THEM!

Car goes in for cleaning now with Cooper Boggs.

I won't be embarrassed that he can't get the car to idle or even run right.

WOOHOO!

THANK YOU, ALL!

John
avidfanjpl

Awesome John, glad your problem is resovled.

Yes, Thanks Tod!

I am VERY unhappy with the Beru wires from the standpoint that they seem to work loose on heat cycling on the cap and the blue coil. Cap is brand new. Hell, everything removable is brand new on the ignition system!

New rotor, new cap, new points, plugs, condenser, blue coil, and those damnable Beru wires. I now push them down in the cap and coil before I start it. No kidding, the Bosch ones never did this.

3 times in 6 runs. And I ain't kiddin!

J

Do your Beru plugs have the plastic centers and 90 degree ends? Or are the they straight up all copper ones?

Also, point gap is an approximation of dwell. It's a great starting point, but shouldn't actually be considered a true tune up specification. Dwell is the real number.

Dwell is 44 measured twice. Gap is 017.

Beru wires are straight not 90's, and I was not the only one that noticed that some of them seemed backed out from the dizzy cap. Skip at Steve's Independent did see the same thing.

Had a bad measurement on the gap last week, but the car runs perfectly tonight.

I mean, not since I bought it has it run so damn strong! Pulls all the way to redline, so I feel blessed right about now!

Going to WATCH the Beru's. And I am not pissing around with ignition for some time to come.

Anyone know where I can get a set of Bosch CORRECT 2.0L plug wires for NOT RAPIST prices? Pelican has none left.

The heat stressing was taking the car out several times in the last week and the car came up to temp where the needle got a little past the T in TEMP on the bottom gauge in the console. Each time it did, I got some backout on the Beru's.

Today was a sure sign of something I felt under acceleration before. Backfiring and missing. Pulled over. Pushed the center wire on the blue coil in, and poof! Problem gone!

Did check the TPS and got a better set than the last 2 times. I must be getting good at it!

No more messing with this engine. She purrs!

Thanks to you all!

John
avidfanjpl

I wasn't questioning your ignition settings. Just sharing information.

I have a set of Beru's coming tomorrow, I'll have to look carefully at them.

No, I would never EVER take offense, McMark, I just check and recheck!

I learned so much here, I will always be grateful.

I just wondered where I was going wrong. The Beru's seem a bit slick, but the solution will be to possibly spread the contact on the coil end and the cap end to make sure they don't back out again.

I forgot to mention that two of three times it was the coil end, and once it was the cap.

It may be that one of the three times it was me jarring the wire, but this last time, I know for certain it was snug before the 50 mile drive last night. Came limping home, and did not realize it was the real problem till 4 pm today.

Went to the garage, snugged it back into the coil AND DROVE AWAY at 5000 RPM!

So, I will maybe futz with the contacts on either end of the coil wire.

Only 1 plug wire seemed loose at the cap last week - #3, and I pushed that back in a week ago.

Tonight after cooling, all wires were snug.

Tell me if you have any issues over time with the Beru wires. They seem damn nice, but totally different from Bosch.

Like I said, slick plastic coating versus satin Bosch finish.

Best regards,

John

I've never had a prob with the Beru. Try pulling the dust boot back an inch or so, then seating the wire, then pull the boot back down in place. The boots normally fit very tight around the wire. If they are too far down on the wire to begin with, they "could" pull the wire back out.

......YES I agree.....and this has happened before....Pull the dust boot way back, then, slightly expand the copper contact at the end of the wire, insert the (coil-or /and do all others).WIRE. Insert wires...ensuring they are firmly in the cap/coil.....THEN slide the dust boot carefully down to seal...use a little silicone spray on the wires,to help the boot slide.