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enikolayev
It has been three years since the car drove but i have finally rebuilt the engine and reinstalled it. Now i'm trying to wire it all up. Too bad i didn't keep a record of where everything went.

I'm looking at the relay board diagram and most of the wires are accounted for except a few oddballs don't seem to match.

The car is a '74 with a 1.8 on Webbers

Wires in italics are not accounted for

Click to view attachment
I think these wires go to the area outlined in red on the Relay Board Diagram (to be posted)


Here we have the following wires:
Green w/ Red Stripe
Green w/ Black stripe
Green
(2) Grey w/ Brown Stripe
Black w/ Red Stripe
Black w/ Purple Stripe
White
Thick Yellow which turns into Red




enikolayev
Click to view attachment
I think this group goes into the area outlined in Green

The wires

Green w/ Red Stripe
(2) Grey w/ Brown Stripe
Green
Green w/ White stripe
Yellow w/ Red Stripe
Black w/ Purple Stripe
Black w/ Red Rings
Black
Blue
(2) Red
Brown

I'm assuming my red wires are the orange in the diagram
enikolayev
Click to view attachment
And finally the Relay Board Diagram

Thanks in advance for your help.
type47
The connection you circled in green is the "14 pin" connector. Those wires go in a "plastic" connector that is then pushed onto the pins on the relay board. You can see from your relay board diagram there are 13 wires used; number 6 is not used. The one circled in red is the "12 pin" connector and there should also be a plug. There are good color electrical schematics on PelicanParts.com that you can use to trace continuity of your circuits.
enikolayev
My relay board had no connector. The wires go directly onto the board.
type47
Maybe the connectors were "lost" during the carb conversion. I would think it would be easy for a wire to become disconnected from the relay board while driving. I'll get a pic of a connector and post it.
Spoke
You are correct that the wires from Post 1 go to the red connector and those from Post 2 go to the green connector. As mentioned, you should really try to procure the plastic connectors that these wires go to. Put a WTB: ad in the classifieds for the 2 connectors.

Use your voltmeter to check all wires to make sure you get the right ones. Don't go by what I tell you. Check these wires yourself to be sure.

Show some pics where the other ends of the wires in question go and we should be able to help figure this out.

From Post 1:
Thick yellow which turns to red: I don't know what this means that yellow turns to red, but the thick yellow wire from this connector could be to pin 6 which goes to the starter.

Here are the wire colors and connections from my 74 schematic from my Haynes manual:

Pin 1 GR/RD Oil Pressure
Pin 2 GY/BR Backup Light
Pin 4 GY/BR Backup Light
Pin 5 BK/PU Tach
Pin 6 YW Starter
Pin 7 BK 12V to Coil
Pin 10 GREEN Heater Blower
Pin 11 GREEN Heater Blower
Pin 12 BK/RD Supplementary Air Valve

From Post 2:
Here's what my schematic says:

Pin 1 YW Starter
Pin 2 BL Alternator Light
Pin 3 GY/BR Backup Light
Pin 4 GY/BR Backup Light
Pin 5 GR/RD Oil Pressure
Pin 7 BK/PU Tach
Pin 8 BK 12V to Coil
Pin 9 GR/WH Heater Blower Switch
Pin 10 BR Ground
Pin 11 GR Heater Blower
Pin 12 RD Battery
Pin 13 BK/RD Fuel Pump
Pin 14 RD Battery
IronHillRestorations
You need to source a salvaged 12 pin female connector body. It would be really easy for two of those connectors to make contact and potentially start a fire. Most of the connections wouldn't cause problems, but if a hot wire shorted out, you'd have trouble.

Getting the smoke back in the wire is the really hard part!
detoxcowboy


http://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/

at the near bottom of the above link you can click into your specific harness and get a diagram.. or just buy another new ot have your repaired, ..
type47
These are pix of the 14 pin connector. I can't find a part number in the PET. The 12 pin is similar. There is also an "U" shaped clamp that goes over the wires and fits into the relay board.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
enikolayev
Alright i've got all of the schematics from pelican and will try to source these plastic connectors. Thanks for the help!
JeffBowlsby
I have an extra 14-pin connector housing (no contacts) available if you need it. $15. shipped to you.

Sorry, I have no extra 12-pin connector housings.

http://bowlsby.net/914/PartsFS/
Spoke
I've got an extra 12 pin connector if you need it. Don't have the plastic safety clip though.
enikolayev
The WTB thread proved fruitful. I've got the parts on the way.
enikolayev
Click to view attachment

While i wait for the parts, could you guys help me make sense of these plugs?

About 70% of the wires leading to the plug and relay are either ripped off or were removed and isolated by the po.

I believe they went under the passengers seat.
type47
My first guess was for the double relay since you said it was a 1.8 but that would be located under the battery tray so since you said it was under the seat, it is the seat belt interlock. There was an arrangement so that if someone was in the seat (either one), the car would not start without the seat belt buckled. Another part is a coiled wire going to each seat cushion for a "butt" sensor to tell if someones butt was in the seat.
windforfun
Do you have wiring diagrams for the car? They are available.
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(enikolayev @ Jul 1 2010, 02:44 PM) *

Click to view attachment

While i wait for the parts, could you guys help me make sense of these plugs?

About 70% of the wires leading to the plug and relay are either ripped off or were removed and isolated by the po.

I believe they went under the passengers seat.



See those 2 fat yellow wires connected together? THAT'S the fix, and the only ones you have to worry about.

The Cap'n
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