QUOTE(RestoMod914 @ Jun 29 2010, 01:28 PM)
Where do you host your images at?
Just on my laptop.
... I can email others to you in full hi-rez, but they're big files (just PM or email your email addy to me).
When you go to the shop, look for the color code in the bottom box on the Karmann Plate in the front driver's door jamb, then you'll know exactly what color it was originally, & btw it will be worth more if kept original color.
I looked at your pix, & it could also be Signal Orange (Signalorange) L20E on that chart. IMO it looks more that than Tangerine, but lighting, cameras, age, oxidation, etc. can change the way a color looks - so the Karmann Plate code &/or COA are the proper way to settle it - not our eyeballs.
These colors also has sample 9124's attached -
http://www.p914.com/p914_paint.htmCheck out the rest of that site above, the 914info here & Jeff Bowlsby's site for resto reference so you can get it right - to your standards & preferences.
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htmIf you Mom was the original owner & you have all the info, matching engine & transaxle case nos. (if latter is on the COA/Kardex), along with full maintenance & ownership chain & maybe even the old window sticker &/or dealer invoice/BoS - then you probably have a huge leg up to make it a fully as original resto.
However, there are a zillion schools of thought here - from the CW only as original guys (which I've now leaned to give the cost & work to resto my 73 2L), to mild modders & less strict DDs (where I was initially in my plans) - to full on hot rodded 6 & 8 & Suby conversions.
I recco you spend some time to look at what needs done on yours & the cost, what are your preferences for the 914 in your hands long run, where & how far & how much dough you are willing go on it - then decide on a plan. Everyone is different, & in the long run you need to please yourself.
As I said, as the work effort & baseline cost to resto mine grew, I pushed into the realm of - might as well do it full on 10 pt CdE with the proper parts new/NOS & as original fitment. It also helped me to talk to/email George Hussey/dr.914 at AA, & to look at color changed examples selling for 40-100% less in comparable post resto condition. Mine was originallly L80E Light Ivory, but I've never been a "white car guy" & always preferred the Marathon Blue & other Metallic Blues, so had initially hoped to repaint/color change it to that - but reversed coures, got desensitized to L80E 914s with lotsa pix at my desktop background & screensaver - & will be making mine original.
The choice is yours!
In answer to your questions under the 3 pix linx above - IF you decide to stay original & period (or a few minor mods) - first get a COA from Porsche/PCNA for about $120 IIRC - $20 discount if you join PCA for $42 a year, plus get national & local monthly mags. & join in events, plus another discount if you send them a copy of the window sticker (maybe for dealer invoice/BoS too??) whether or not you join PCA. Then put it back as to the way it was originally &/or with correct period/MY options & save the restored items taken off, & don't do anything irreversible in personalization mods.
For example - if you decide to stick with original fitment to 72 MY 914, then .....
Instead of non-OE finish blacked out Fuchs 2L 4-lugs - get the Pedrini Alloy Wheels available in yours' 72 MY (Fuchs & Mahle 4-lugs weren't available until the 73 MY), & if it came with Steel Wheels originally, then restore & store them for future CW/CdE use or sale or just valuation for insurance purposes.
Sail/Rollbar vinyl - if it came with it originally (not later add-on), then put it back. IMHO - the 914s look lower & leaner/meaner with both the sails in black vinyl & rockers/F&R Valances in black. You can mock it up visually yourself with black paper temp.attached with blue painters tape on the back of the paper - then stand back & look both on & off to decide for yourself.
Ditto with the Targa top itself - which in its original finish was a bumpy/eggshell matte or satin finish - even if they've gotten more "shiny" over the years.
Cheers!
Tom
///////
Pat Garvey/PIG on here is a CW maestro in the Philly area with an original owner 72 914 - so he can also give you MY specific guidance.
PS - I missed that you're looking to AX - AX will have different classes for mods, so you can still do AX as an original with tweaking, or go up from there in classes based on the mods you do. Get your local PCA Zone's AX rules online to see where you want to fall. IMHO a good driver can excel in any class original to highly modded, vs. similar cars & other varied skills drivers - so it's in the skills to me!