I've been on Search, Haynes, Dr evil's Appendix, and still can't come up with the torque for the bolts through the CV to the transmission.

Help?

31 ft-lbs, it's in the Haynes called axle flange bolts, I think in the rear suspension section.

Edit: while you're in there check the bolts on the stub axle side, they can work loose.

31 Bill 31.....

You doing the safety wire version?
(since you metioned Dr Evil's appendix; and I took over the CV bolts he was doing; I thought I'd ask)

I am not even going to ask HOW you got to searching Dr. Evil's appendix!

OK... so I have a question...

I just lost an outboard CV joint because all of those bolts were loose and it all came undone at speed last Friday.

So how do you safety wire the cv bolts that are on the stub axle side?

I mean those things are kinda buried in the trailing arm and on top of that the boots kinda get in the way.

Does the wire need to be arranged in some way (sort of like aircraft bolts that are safety wired) to be actually effective?
Thanks

Curt

31..Thanks. It's all the different ways to call a bolt a bolt...axle flange bolt.
I need to order some wired bolts. When I pulled the tranny, a couple of the bolts were loose.

As to his appendix, he put it online to download. Now I'm waiting for the DVD for more revealing images. Messy I'm sure, but revealing. I guess Doctors don't need appendix's anymore.

Jim. I'll send you an order. Are there picture instructions on how to wire? This might be advanced mechanics. A pelican level 8.

Curt, pull the outer stub axle.

Bill; yes! the pictures are in the member vendors thread that Dr Evil started.

link to make it easy on you: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=54963

Level 7 tops.


Edit: yeah, check the outers, also. Follow the instructions that Mark gave to Curt. Do we need to have a CV-joint wiring clinic?

Hi McMark

"pull the outer stub axle."

OK, yeah that makes sense, did not think about that as I have not gotten into that part of the car yet.

Mark, did you get more seals to build the speedo drive modification?

I'd like to order one when they are back in stock.

Curt

A small tip on cv's and the grease they occasionally sling.

After they are torqued onto the axle, stub axle, and transaxle flange, clean the circumference of the cv with acetone. It's better to avoid getting any on the boots for obvious reasons. Although that stuff evaporates so fast it usually makes no difference.

Then wrap the circumference with HVAC aluminum foil tape. Most handy folks who have been exposed to this stuff have some of this hanging on the wall.

Note: After duct-tape, it's the most useful tape in the arsenal.

HIGHLY recommend these. No more 12 pt head, and a good measure of piece of mind.

FWIW after I get the CV, gasket, and one bolt hand tight, I clean the grease out of the threaded holes on the output flange with a q tip drenched with brake cleaner. I always use new schnor washers and a tiny drop of blue loctite on each clean and dry CV bolt, torqued to the proper spec.

Not trying to pee in anyone's Wheaties, but since I've done it like this, I've never had a CV bolt come loose.

I used the allen head bolts, but didn't need loctite, with proper torque they have not backed out on me. new washers was key though.

The safety wires bolts a great peace of mind, but strictly speaking aren't necessary. Even so, I still recommend them because it's one less thing to worry about and it's cheap security.

I don't wanna pee in wheaties, but am on furlough today so have time to the I bought custom length cv bolts from Patrick for a 915/wevo. They were stamped 11.9. If you've substituted garden variety 8.8 bolts, does the 31 ft-lb setting still apply? Or is it just a function of thread pitch? Or is all hardware these days counterfeit crap made outside

The bolts I sell are 12.9; and offer the peace of mind that McMark mentioned.
I recommend following the 31, and safety wiring them. If they come out, something is very very wrong.

I have the Evil bolt set in my garage patiently awaiting installation. Assuming I get around to that sometime before the world comes to an end, do I just cough up the $$ for the star bolt wrench or is there a way to pull them without it (maybe a hex will work)? It will, after all, be a single-use item. (Or are there other applications of these wrenches on our cars?)

Skip

If you bought hardware store 8.8 bolts don't torque them to anything, just leave them loose and drive around the block. That way you're close to home when they fail.


**Apparently I'm in a mood today.

FWIW I always get the CV bolts and washers from Porsche, they aren't too bad.

Skip, you've got to use the triple square hex, if you try to use a regular allen, you'll strip them out, I know from 1st hand experience (1980). You can re-use the bolts, just not the serrated washers.