Was doing some work under the car.

Became disgusted at the sight of all the oil coating everything on what was, not too long ago, a clean engine, trans and underside.

Made me wonder if the 6 cylindar engines have the same propensity for leaking?

So...... are the 6'ers more tidy?

Curt

Happy 4th of July weekend everyone!

who says the type 4 has to be oily on the bottom

by the way, 4 or 6, all can be just as messy as the other.

Can't speak for others here but on my car, the only oil-drip i get is from the connection that goes to the bottom of the oil-tank. I used AN fittings to connect the two hoses but it has been leaking ever so slightly since day one. Tried to clean it and get it to seal during the last two oil-changes, no luck.

The motor itself is dry ...
Andy

....From my experience with Porsche period!......these cars sweat oil?
and are dirt magnet's(engine & transmission)

Last time I had my car in the shop, a 4 banger, they had to completely clean/degrease the underside of the engine because "they couldn't even tell there was an engine in there". Turns out my oil cooler is leaking...

Old ones do, new ones don't.

I haven't had a big leaker, with the exception of part failures like the oil-sending units, in a long time. I build with Dupont 730. Expensive(i.e. $90/tube) but works.

Lot's of early motors both 4's and 6's fair better when they're align-bored and have all surfaces "trued". But they benefit from new sealants and silicon o-rings.

The old air-cooled aircraft-engine builders used to put a silk thread into the sealer-bead between the case-half's to help with that problem.

Mag cases and carburetors are like that too. Plenty of folks have carbs that leak when they simply need the mating-surfaces milled true again. And it has to be said...

Garage-queens will leak no matter what. They don't get run enough.

.....Adendum to my 1st (you're bloody right!!)

English motorcycles = German Air Cooled

Most make the Exxon Valdez look like a drop.

My old 2.2 would leak a bit if it sat too long. When I drove it daily it stayed pretty dry.

I think that's common with these cars.

What?...It's just the aft automatic rust control system.

That's why you never see a 914 with a rusted out ass end

I am currently assembling my engine and am looking for a good sealant. Where would I get this stuff? I was considering using the Wurth flange sealant, but haven't had much luck with anything myself.

Kevin

my six doesnt leak a drop.!

It will when it's 35 years old

My 4 does not leak at all. 23,000 miles on the rebuild.

Damn, I just jinxed myself!

There are some techniques that help when re-sealing an engine.

If you have a heavy leaker I'd probably drop the engine and do a complete re-seal, but it's time consuming and will cost you a little bit.

Porsches don't leak oil, they mark thier spot!

Roll Royces don't leak oil they have controlled seepage.

Harleys leak oil just like an old air compressor.

In all seriousness, the most difficult task I ever did was following the Tech Tips 700 for rebuilding a motor while still in the car.

I know a guy who bought a 911 that looked like a previous owner had tried to rebuild the motor with it installed.

wow that must of been quite a mess to sort out.

My six went 7 years without a drop until i got it out this spring and now leaks from one of the cam shaft seals.
I guess it comes out next winter for a fix as i don't like it marking its territory.

Yikes. I goofed. It's Dow Corning 730... I got mine from a local industrial supply place but it's available off the web at only $76,000 per 500 lb container. Group buy?

http://www.google.com/search?q=dow+corning...lient=firefox-a

A more reasonable size...

http://www.skygeek.com/rtv730-3oz.html

This stuff is magical and forgive the warning if it's redundant for you, but as all sealants and gaskets demand, obsessive surface prep is everything. Without it no sealant will work. I use copious quantities of lacquer thinner and acetone. The former stays on the part longer but leaves a film that the latter takes off. MEK isn't easily available everywhere.

Note: Good ventilation and a good organic filter facemask required to be safe with any of the above chemicals.

Cheers!

Look at pcar916's post. /the silk thread is available at aircraft spruce. Run the thread twice around in a spiral appx 1/8" apart then cross it over itself at the end. I haven't built a T4 yet, but if they are anything like A/C case halfs then torque procedure may take 8 to 10 passes, then one more check the next day.

Actually, if you look at the latest water-cooled engines with their rear mainshaft seal problems, it seems that Porsche's engineers like leaking oil!

My -6 doesn't leak too much, but there is usually a small spot if it's been sitting too long. Then again, the oil probably does help the magnesium case from returning to it's native state quite as fast.

I've never had a leaking problem from the case split using Locktite 574.
Mine did leak around the outside of the #8 bearing (mag case).....and did so until I rebuilt it after 7 years
A new #8 bearing did the deed with some Threebond 1211 for insurance.
It still "weeps" at the chain cases....bout every faying surface but not enough to drip.
Silk strings & bearing clearances of the 6 do not go hand in hand, IMO.

Thre are bout 10000 (give or take ) "O" rings & what not on a 6 that will cause problems if one does not install them with care & the proper lube. Silicone *grease* is proper.

Some people live in denial.
They all leak.

They don't leak, they mark their spot.

No leaks from my car. The transmission did leak from the 916 shifter but with the new bugat part and rebuild by Chris all is running perfect in my garage.