Came to tha gas station put in full tank from emtpy and car all of a sudden won't start. Any ideas?

if not turning over voltage drop from being hot. If fuel injected and not starting and hot vapor lock!

i *think* it was flooded. don't know why but thats what it seemed like anyways when it finally did start.

but thank you for the fast reply. i was 200 yds from house at the gas station and you replied before i got home haha.

ok so there is more to the story now.
i had the cold start valve 'working' and it wouldn't start the first time and i disconnected it because it was the most recent thing i touched.
i reconnected it and then it did the same thing later after a 5 minute drive and then disconnected and started up again. i think the cold start valve may be bad? or just not use to that much extra fuel and it's flooding it?

Do a search, this has come up before.
tom

i did search and found that it isn't supposed to run in such hot weather but that also doesn't indicate why its flooding so easily. why would it flood if it was intended to give it extra gas anyways? odd little booger

Because when it is colder the air is more dense. Therefore, you are mixing more air with the gas/CSV when the OAT is cold than if the air was warm.

When my car doesn't want to start I hit it with the ether. Works every time

I was shown in person a month ago how one cold start injector was stuck open and was flooding a 2.0 with the original unit.

Did not need wire attached to spray fuel, meaning that it failed open.

Then he clamped the fuel line to the CSI. The car started instantly.

He replaced it next, and never had another problem.

But it made me wonder if an electrical fault in the ECU can make the CSI stick open?

This was a mechanical failure to open, for sure.

Maybe clamp the fuel hose to the CSI and the car will start?

J

i appreciate all the input. i believe i figured out what the problem was. kinda feel like i shoulda known but i learn by troubleshooting anyways.
i don't have the temperature sensor hooked up. the one on top of the engine. and the CSI wasn't working before due to a bad ground on it. so between those 2 things when i gave the CSI a good ground it didn't know how hot or cold it was and it just floods the engine.
i still don't understand the AAR then cause it is open when i start the car but doesn't make the car rev high to 'warm' it up but it does open and then close fine maybe 5 minutes after the car starts. is the car not supposed to idle high at first when its this hot outside and only when its cold outside?

I'm confused. The temp sensor on the top of the engine IS the ground for the CSI. When the air temp is below freezing, it closes and the one terminal is shorted to the case and this provides the ground to make the CSI work.




The AAR just provides a little extra air to the intake when the AAR is cold and thus the engine is cold. This helps the engine run smoothly when it is just started and is cold. If the car is hot and turned off, the AAR will share some of the engine heat and when re-started, the AAR may already be closed.

The CSI is just for temps below freezing and the AAR is for all temperatures when the engine is cold (ie., room temperature).

heh, well that explains it. my ECU harness isn't bad its just not hooked up
glad you explained that makes things crystal clear now.

so what are these people saying when the engines rev's to 1700rpm for a couple of minutes? mine doesn't do that it just automatically idles at 900-1000 with no 'warm up' time. that is in the morning after a day of not running so the engine should be about 70F.

bump.. aar not funtioning?

My aar works fine. Trust me. Its not the aar not opening. For one if I remove the aar and allow air directly into the aar polint on the plenum it doesn't change. But my aar works fine