My 73 2.0L is hard to start when cold. It cranks for about 5 or 10s, and will slowly catch.

I made this video so you all can see exactly what happens.

When the car is warm, it will start up in 1 second (1 or 2 engine turns), as expected. IOW, if I run into the store to get some milk, when i come out, the car starts right up.

i've done the following:

• Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil change, valve adjust
• Set timing: it's dead nuts 27 deg BTDC @ 3500 rpm
• Changed the fuel filter (I did that right before I made the video)
• Replaced all the vacuum lines in the engine compartment

also relevant:

• I have no points in the car -- it's a crane optical unit (XR3000). fuel injection is stock otherwise
• Fuel pressure is about 31lbs when operating
• idle is very steady between 900 and 1k rpm during operation
• PO put in a new bosch fuel pump less than 5k miles ago

Where would you guys go to start troubleshooting next? I'm thinking cold start valve?

Thanks!!
Rich

You are running carbs, I am guessing? That is an important bit of information.
*edit* never mind, 31 PSi fuel means its injected.

Did it always do this, or is this a new thing?
Zach

[*]I have no points in the car -- it's a crane optical unit (XR3000). fuel injection is stock otherwise

Clamp the cold start injector fuel line and try it. I had a problem with mine being open, and I replaced it. For a while, I clamped it, and it started on the first try.

Is it running rich when it does start and run? You can tell easily, because now that mine runs right, there is no unburned fuel smell at all.

Sounds like, but I can't be positive, too much fuel at startup, as mine did the same damn thing until I solved all the issues.

Also, check your throttle position sensor. There are links that show what ohms it has to be at to set it on here and on Pelican and on the Anders DJET site.

That was also a big thing for me.

I run points, and that was a little issue for me.

Sounds like we both have Signal Orange 2.0L's from 1973. Mine was made in 9/72.

Engine GA000386

Do you know yours?

Best of luck!

John
avidfanjpl

Is that valves I hear after it starts? Someone confirm? tt..ttt.tt.tt.ttt..tt.ttt.. ect..

It always did this. PO claimed "it has to build fuel pressure" and did the on-off thing with the key a few times before he started it, and it still hesitated like this. I don't do that (premature wear on the ignition switch) and it behaves exactly the same.

I don't think fuel pressure is the issue.

i'll try this, although I don't think i'm running rich...exhaust pipe isn't black, spark plugs look ok to me. although i'm not sure either of those two things would manifest if I was running rich only at *startup.*

i'll check this too although I think it's ok since my idle knob is definitely being switched into the circuit.

I think my valves are ok...Ray helped me adjust them less than 1k miles ago...you're probably hearing the crappy mic in my crappy digital camera distorting. I'll give it a close listen though and make sure there's no typewriter action.

thanks everyone!
Rich

Make sure your AAR is "open" when cold......If it is stuck closed, it will be hard to start and run welll when engine is warm.....

i pulled both hoses off the AAR and behavior was the same, so I don't think this is the issue.

All the same I should check AAR operation.

Rich - read my next post 1st & try that, then ....

You've got some good advice there above already - John's cold start valve idea could be the problem, but you may want to check out the fuel tank for rust/dirt inside & change the filter "sock" up in there to make sure you're not getting debris in the lines, since it can hold instantaneous pressure but loose it on demand if a line is clogged.

Did you check/change you injector trigger points - which IIRC, you still need even with point-less ignition? If those are going bad, then they won't "fire" the injectors properly & you could be fuel starved - esp. when the engine is "cold". You can also check each injector by pulling them one at a time, put into a mason jar or something clear & crank, note if they're all getting good flow.

The wrong or a faulty Cyl. Head Temp. sensor could also cause problems, but our 73 D-jets take the NLA -017 type CHT & they need a spacer available from Brad Mayuer (sp?) in MI on here IIRC, & only the -012 are still available.

PM John/avidfan for his MPS trick too, cuz that can cause other problems (MPS wire under injector tube #3 IIRC).

OK - so I jogged my memory back to 25+ years ago when I was still driving my 73 914-2.0 & pulled out the good ole owner's manual on starting, because I don't think many folks today are used to the way Porsche (VW) back then recommended starting a 914 - so to quote from pg. 13 under "Starting Engine" starting at the end of the first paragraph:

"... Before starting, depress the accelerator pedal fully and keep at full throttle until the engine runs.

This applies when the engine is warm or cold and during all weather conditions...."

I had to un-learn this technique when I got my 85 BMW 325e, & I think that most of us got used to the newer EFI systems since the 70's which tell you NOT to touch the gas pedal while starting/cranking.

Rich - if you're not using this technique, then try that first!

BTW - my 73 is about the same vintage as John's/avidfan above VIN...1954 & GA000424 - built the week following his by chassis no. IIRC, but mine got a 8/72 build date on the VIN sticker.

Factory Bullshit! A properly tuned and functioning djet will never need the gas pedal touched when starting. I agree about the CSV. Disconnect and plug the hose, unplug wire, and I'll bet the problem goes away.