On another post I read its a bad idea to get the rocker panels powdercoated, why is that? I was planning on getting my front bumper and valence and rocker panels powdercoated but I guess I may not be

Thanks, Robert

great idea in semigloss but they will not match the original finish which was satin trim paint (it looks thick and orange peeled and will therefore resist minor nicks and bumps. You could paint with the satin trim paint over the powder paint for effect and have double protection.

I am planning on doing the same thing (blasting and powdercoating), but I did decide to rattlecan satin over the valances and rockers when I GET THE DAMN THINGS OFF THE CAR.

Just bought all 4 kits to put them all back on once removed, nice packages coming from AA, with the immediate goal to get them off and cleaned, but all 6 rocker cheeseheads are unmovable!

Tried everything, PBBlaster, tapping, HAMMERS, screwdrivers, screw impact drivers, screw it.

I now have plans of someone with a lift cutting the heads off, dropping the rockers and ezouting the screws.

And I decided for cutting out the jackpoints and putting in new ones. One is pitted a bit. The other is pitted a lot. No longs damage, but they need to be new.

Joys of the summer and fall.

J

IMHO PC will not resist the rocks & road debris which chips the paint off of these parts, which is why VW-Porsche then & most auto mfgrs. today/since use a thicker polymer or rubberized chip guard - either under or integrated into the paint.

If you're trying to match the original look on yours, then you'll want to use a satin black pebbly finish on the rockers & F&R Valances, & on 73-76 painted bumpers. Pre-73 painted bumpers were the color match to the car, but they changed to the black chip protected coating in 73 MY both due to costs & simplifying the production process, as well as because of problems with the body color paint on the bumpers chipping too much - esp. in the front (per a guy I knew at the local Porsche+Audi dealer back in the day).

John - I had the same problem with my driver side rocker OE cheeseheads which had never been off sine 8/72 AFAIK (pass. side were change by Hans to hex when they did the fuel pump relocation in 79), I used several soakings over a couple of weekends of Liquid Wrench (Wench if you prefer), then with that side up on jack stands for clearance - coaxed it off with a flat-head angle driver & a tommy bar (pipe over handle to extend leverage).

Not really a hijack, as the topic poster may need this technique for his attachment screws too.

Wow, I havent tried to remove the rockers yet. I had no idea it would be such a headache Thanks for the advice, Ill see what I can do

"73 1.7. Mine came off with ease. Don't punture the heater tube when you put them back on.

Click to view attachmentI got mine off this past winter as one of my first "to do things" , and yes there was a big clump of dirt behind each one which would hold moisture and cause rust. Getting the screws off was a bitch, I did the soak with penetrating fluid for a 2 week period but 2 screws broke off flush, welding a nut on is a better method of removal I found. Had the area behind sandblasted,primed and painted properly, then did the same to the rocker panels, reinstalled with stainless bolts with a hex head. Really glad I did this as now I know the condition of my longs and they are now well protected, and getting the nicely painted rocker panels off in the future will not be a problem.

Click to view attachmentThat is not the pic I wanted to post, this one is.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

I got my detailer to get some of that crap out last weekend with a pressure hose.

I expect trouble, so I am prepared, emotionally, at least.

Tom, what exactly are you talking about with that device? I understand the pipe for leverage, but what tool are you talking about?

Everyone recommended PBBlaster. I have tried it on each cheesehead several times every couple of days, and nothing.

They look so good on the car, but I know they will be horrible, THEN we can see how the powdercoating looks.

But, I know I will spray over it like George mentioned.

The paint I have for it is Krylon Satin Engine Paint. No pebbles.

I prefer the flat surface finish.

J

How about ceramic? That stuff is really tough. My exhaust I did way back is still great. Has anybody done that?

I hope you don't have any rust holes in your longs which would allow some of that water to enter and start rusting them from the inside out.

You will not like fixing chipped powder coat. Also powder coat will need to be scuffed to hold paint on top of it. Also where the holes are will get filled in some and the fasteners won't fit in the holes any more.

I had mine powder coated semi-gloss, looks great, works great... not an issue so far.. actually had all my tin powder coated semi-gloss, no issues...