So I am having a few issues with the far running I pulled the injectors thnking one my be stuck and not squirting but the are all squirting a nice fan of fuel then next I pulled the plugs to check for spark all plugs are getting a nice arc so I yanked the exhaust and am currently adjusting the valves. Just wonderering what are some other things I should look into?


When I start the car I need to give the car some throttle before it fires up and when it does it is popping not so much from the exhaust side but sound like it is coming more from the intake side also the car wont idle. Anyone have a guess's

Engine is a 1.7 fuel injected all wires seem to be clean and connected.. Ignition is Allison I belive

You have F.I. which is operated by Vacuum. The integrity of the hoses must be perfect. A.A. sells a nice precut vacuum hose kit. Bet that will fix it or at least you will know that side of the engine is perfect. Let us know the results and we can procced from there.
Good luck Dave

Thank you I will give the vacuum lines a look

Here is an OLD video you can some what here the popping if I take my foot off the throttle it dies instantly when I give it throttle it pops and bangs

ANY IDEAS ?

did you check the condition of all the vaccuum lines like Dave said. It makes all the difference... If you have a vaccuum leak it won't idle right.

Yes I replaced a few of them even.. It is not juist the adle its is the full rpm range that is acting up..

I believe you said you have FI. On a 1.7, that would be D Jetronic by Bosch.

If this is true............

This may sound bizarre, but check to see that the #3 plug wire is as far away as it can be from the Manifold Pressure Sensor, which should be behind the battery.

It is the fist-sized round thing, typically under the deceleration valve. Plug wires can make it go crazy, and screw up all kinds of things.

I am not positive of your condition, but it has worked for many that tried it. Put the plug wire under the injector tubes away from the passenger side to the center of the engine.

Good luck!

John

Thank you john I will try that first thing in the morning.

do teh basics first, adjust the vlave, set timing then inspect for intake leaks with ether or simular flamable gas. look for leaks on the manifold and the hoses. if that is good then we can start electrical testing of the components.

you must have the engien tuned up first valves, no leaks and timing right, then we can proceed.



good luck

Nope still doing the same thing.. Any other Ideas ?

Deceleration valve in place?

Check the hoses to and from it. Just because the color on the chart is a certain color, does not mean your colors are the same. The key is the size of the hose to and from each device. And that the hoses, fittings and devices all can hold a vacuum.

Have you ever checked to see that your routing of all hoses is correct?

John

Click to view attachment

Ok, stay with my fuzzy logic here..

I have seen the Aux air regulator stuck open, Mine was when I got the car, so were a few others, plenty of write ups how to fix it. So, if the AAR is stuck open, causing a high idle, DAPO's adjust the idle and ECU to compensate for the high idle, slowing it down. With the AAR stuck open, you get driveability issues with lean conditions at all RPM's. And since they usually lean out the ECU at idle to slow it down, you get the cold start problem because it's too lean. So I would at least check it to make sure it's closing before a whole lot of other adjustments .

I adjusted the valves check them before I adjusted and the where all .006 also did a compression test which was a cold test with no warm up and all were 125-135 aprox.

I do not have the stock air cleaner on the car it came with some sort of cold air kit and filter but it has run with that for years .. I will try these test thank you..

Also I have yet to check the timing as I just wen out and bought a snap on timing light so as soon as I get a second person i will check that

Cant check the timing it wont hold at 3500 I really wish I can figure this issue out. Before I sell it.

Did you check your fuel pressure and a clean fuel filter?

Since the FI is not totally stock, it is REALLY hard to make suggestions.

The dizzy is not stock either, so I don't know what to tell you.

Could be fuel, could be the dizzy is way off. Did you check your fuel pressure?

Should be 30psig.

There are several 1.7 DJet tuning posts on here all at once. I know 2.0L better, but DJet is DJet, basically.

Did you look at the Anders info on DJet?

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DjetP...tm#troubleshoot

This is a 914 pot of gold for DJet.

Good luck,

John

[quote name='avidfanjpl' date='Jul 29 2010, 05:33 PM' post='1349821']
Did you check your fuel pressure and a clean fuel filter?

Since the FI is not totally stock, it is REALLY hard to make suggestions.

The dizzy is not stock either, so I don't know what to tell you.

Could be fuel, could be the dizzy is way off. Did you check your fuel pressure?

Should be 30psig.

There are several 1.7 DJet tuning posts on here all at once. I know 2.0L better, but DJet is DJet, basically.

Did you look at the Anders info on DJet?

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DjetP...tm#troubleshoot

This is a 914 pot of gold for DJet.

Good luck,

John

Ok so here is the latest and greatest I got it to run long enough to check the timing it should be close as I ran it a 3500 rpm and got the red mark to the center of the notch. only thing is I was going off the stock tach so I am sure it is not exact but pretty close... after running it for a while trying to play with the idle screw since it will not idle it just dies when i let off the throttle . all of the sudden it completely die's and the fuel pump stops working i go to the back of the car to check the fuse and notice the coil is smoking one of the positive wires that apears to go to the harness melted.. I did have the coil loose in the metal harness so I am no sure if it got loose and grounded it self or what happend not sure why that whould have melded like that..

OUCH!

OK, disconnect the positive off the battery, then the negative, in that order, then inspect the wires to the coil then the harnesses around the engine. You should also check to see you did not melt any where the relay and fuse panels are. Relay is drivers side front, and fuse up above your clutch pedal.

There is a thread here that had another 71 with a melted harness, but it was because of a loose ground. If you can see your ground above the battery, make sure it is clean and tight.

Once you replace the melted wires, and you really do need to follow them back to the relay AND the fuse panels, then get a new blue Bosch coil. Get a new condenser, but I think you don't have one with your system, and check your ignition you mentioned, as you may have melted it as well.

Bolt down the coil with the negative to the rear of the engine, positive to the front.

It must have touched the engine tin.

Not a great thing. Hopefully you only damaged some wires, but you have to check everything.

I skirted wiring death several times, but the best thing is to disconnect the battery for now and get a new coil.

They can burn up, but I am not sure yours did. If there is no spark when cranking, it be dead.

Hope you find it was a fast and minor short.

Don't feel bad. My car is not as good as when I got it. I screw many things up regularly. I am Mr. Chips for dinging the paint in 14 months better than many.

John

I unplugged the batt immediatly whe i seen it smoking it looks like on one wire got hurt and it was the black and red mixed wire that goes to the coil onle about 4 inched of it melted al the other wires apear to be fine.

Then splice in an appropriately heavy wire gauge, crimp on a new female, wire it up, and see if she starts.

AFTER you bolt the coil down.

Good luck!

John

Ok so added new wires to the two I found burnt only aproxx 4 inches of wire I am about to go and pick up a new coil but need to make sure I get the wires back on the coil in the right place the I have four wires two coming from the relay board I belive number 6 blk/purp. number 7 blk/red
and two coming from the igniton box which is a allison 700 box one red and one black

red and black twist I am guessing this is positive ?
black and purple negative ?
from the ignition box
red positive
and black negative?
can anyone confirm this ?