This may be old news, but my T1 buggy buddy just turned me on to these new lifters from Scat. The neat thing is that they have a small hole in the bottom that supplies oil under pressure to the cam lobe. I haven't been posting much lately but thought I would share this with you guys. I put my 2366 together a while back and had the cam ate the lifters within minutes!! My first thought was that the lifters were soft and couldn't stand up to the forces involved with the dual springs on the valves. Now that I've had some more time to inspect and think, I think the inner valve springs were going solid. I checked the outer springs when I set up the push rod lengths. I wasn't able to get to the inners and assumed that they would be OK. Now, looking at the valve spring retainers, they have a large step for the inner valve spring and they go solid before the outers. Now, I'm demoralized and am slowly going about making this thing right. Anyway, check out these lifters.

Looks intersting. Anyone use these before?

Yep! I have a few sets on the bottom of my scrap pile.

Sorry bud....get a set with matching cam off of Raby or WEB cam.
Unless you can get your hands on a set of ceramics. Last set I had (for sale that is) I sold for $700 (or was it 8) and they sold in minutes.

When setting up for dual springs you must trim the tops of the guides. You also have to measure and check for coil bind. I use a rod and a DI in my drill press to measure coil bind.

Agree with Mark.

Get lifters matched to your cam, or you are rolling the dice.
or find ceramics and pay through the nose for them.

Zach

I bought a Scat cam to go with the lifters. I have been checking the springs for bind and had to get some different retainers. Things are looking better now. I just need to figure out if I need to replace the springs that were going solid.

Oh! Well the then lifters are matched to the cam, right? You should be golden.

Zach

I've used them with success in Type I motors.

how do the lifters get oiled?... are NON hydrolic cases different than hydrolic cases? I.E. pressurized oiling passages to supply these new holes for NON hydrolics?

.TO be entirely safe...you should have at least .100 ths inch clearance between the TOP of the valve guides...and the bottom of the valve spring retainers...cut off the top of the valve guide(and the aluminum boss). there are special tools availableto do this job precisely...the pilot for the cutter uses the ID of the valve guide. You should also check the inner and outer valve springs for coil bind AT FULL LIFT. Sounds like you now have learned that the inner and outer springs should be checked seperately , at full lift , for coil bind...Last note: these clearances Must be physically checked. "calculations"based on cam lift, and rocker arm ratios just won't cut it. Naturally the valve springs must have a proper overall length, number of windings /coils, and diameters to accomodate the valve spring retainer and seat diamenter in the head and no coil bind at full lift, as well as clearance between the spring windings / coils.., and the valve seat pressures, open and closed you want to use........I recommend replacing the Valve springs BECAUSE they went to coil bind.

Always buy your lifters from the same manufacturer of the cam.

I always giggle when I see a Scat product.


No I am NSFW

Febi makes those also. I believe those are hydrolic,in which case you must turn
in the adjusting screw 2 full turns rather than .006 and .008 clerance

No, these are solid lifters