I've been waiting as long as I can to do my clutch, I usually don't do much on my car myself, but I've heard that is is easy.
(and can be done with the engine still in the car!)

I am in the process of selling my Bug so I can afford to get the car over to AA.
It needs other things also.
But, I might try it myself if responses are encouraging.

What would I need? besides the clutch kit.

How long would it take someone with no clutch experience to complete something like this, and how likely am I not to mess it up?

Surely, I'll need jackstands, but any other important items and / or tricks?

also, recommendations on clutches would be great!

Maybe I can keep the Bug...
The closest I've come to this kind of work was many years ago when me and my brother switched engines in VW's in the front yard.

It can be done. Make sure you have some type of jack or block setup to support the engine when you pull the transmission. Also, unscew the four 13mm nuts on the transmission mounts as it's easier to line it back up when you put the transmission in. You'll need a clutch alignment tool and plan on replacing everything while your there. By this I mean throwout bearing, p-plate, disc, bushings, possibly the rear crankshaft seal(if it's leaking) and the transmission input shaft seal(also if it's leaking). It's relatively an easy job especially if you can get a helper. It shouldn't take more than three to four hours.

Tools is the first place to consider. You need a floor jack, two would be better. A clutch alignment tool, and wrenches. A strong freind who doesn't mind a little hard work can be a big help. Make sure you get all parts involved. Read the hains manuel and do it right. I am sure there is a thread here as well that will help. It is not too complicated, just prepare in advance and check flywheel surface. I always replace clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. I am not sure if there is a pilot bearing on these or not. If there is, replace that too. I am sure there is more, and someone else will chime in. But you can do it yourself in an afternoon.

I did the one on my 74 and I had it done easily in one weekend. Engine stayed in the car. Had all the parts on hand to begin with.

The only issue I ran into was the flywheel needed cut. Then I remembered that I took an engine apart about a year before and used the flywheel to hold all the nuts and bolts that I saved. Turns out the flywheel from the extra engine was in great shape so I swapped wheels.

You should have moderate mechanical skills to this job. If you don't wrench on your car now it might be a bit of a stretch unless you have a friend who can wrench it with you helping. It would cost you some

Since the shifter linkage comes out to pull the trans, good time to do bushings. Don't forget the CV joint gaskets and special washers. You will also need the special star socket to get them off. Do the fluid at the same time, 17mm allen. You will also need the muffler gaskets since that has to come off as well. Not too hard of a job, plan on a weekend if you've never done this kind of thing before.

Sounds promising.

I'm pretty sure the 19 piece -? Clutch kit from AA has pretty much everything I would need, and comes with the alignment tool.

Might be time for me to get to know my car better. on the inside.

there is a great write up on the Pelican site with lots of pictures. I used it to do mine, first clutch job for me, and it was pretty straight forward. You might want to get a flywheel lock tool, makes life a lot easier. good luck, you can do it in a day

Did it a couple of times with a single jack holding up the engine while I laid under the car and muscled the transmission into alignment by hand (and knee), then getting a starter nut on the transmission mounts. All by myself. I was much younger and, obviously, much stronger. Most recently I used a screw-type transmission jack to lower and raise the transmission as I removed it and later installed it. This was much easier.

Overall I would call it more tedious than hard. Removing the axles can be a pain if it has been awhile since they were broken free. Personally, the hardest part for me was figuring out how to remove the transmission linkage! Then getting it re-installed and adjusted!

I agree with the flywheel lock. I'm sure it's not recommended but for years I simply wedged a big screwdriver into the flywheel teeth, levering it off the threaded studs on the engine case to keep the engine from turning over while I loosened and tightened the flywheel bolts. I finally bought the lock about 6 months ago.

Use a checklist or diagram to make sure all the little parts go in the first time, like the pilot bearing and felt washer. It's also a good time to replace the rear engine seal if you are getting any oil out of the engine that might make its way onto your new clutch. You could remove the transmission, replace the clutch and get it all buttoned up in one day. I allot an entire weekend since I work pretty slow nowadays.

Pelican Parts has it for you!! Detailed Step by Step with pics..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace1.htm

The fly wheel lock I had was useless until you got one bolt out so it fit in the hole , if I could get one bolt out without it, then I could do the whole job without it.. Bought one never used it, gave it away..

Having just done a clutch job, during a transmission swap (although probably my 4th time doing it), I'd say it is a great job for someone willing to venture into working on their car in a serious way for the first time.

All the above tips are good, also check end play if you are going to swap the flywheel out, also take a good look around while in there and replace/fix everything you see that might be wrong in that area.

DON'T forget to reinstall the transmission ground strap, BTW.

Good luck and have fun. If you have everything you need, you can do the job in 3 hrs, but if it is your first time spend 5 and get to know your car!

Enjoy!

The aa clutch kit comes with detailed instructions written by Dr. 914 that any one can follow.
I used to complete a clutch replacement in 45 minutes starting after I jacked the car up and rested it on the jack stands to the time I was ready to let it down. Except for that one time when, trying to beat my record, I forgot to reconnect the transmission ground strap. After thinking that the battery had lost its charge, installing a heavy duty battery charger on the "boost" mode, and melting the accelerator cable in the tunnel tube, I spent the rest of the weekend cutting out and replacing the tube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, I guess the old adage that George is trying to impose is;

"Haste makes wasted welded messes of accelerator cables..."

or something like that, right?

I will be getting the kit from AA for sure, I use them for everything!

and it comes with instructions and such...

I think I will do this, so here are some basic questions...

How many jackstands should I use (6?)

How high should I get the car ?

Do I drink the beer first, during or after?

How important is it to line evertything up perfectly?

If I mess this up what could happen?

I should be able to give George and them a call if I have too many problems during the installation.

I'll try to do it, either weekend after next or two weeks from that, depending on if I want friday or monday off... Maybe on my off monday weekend so that I have a day at the end of the weekend when AA is open for advice and parts.

Surely more questions coming. I'm just typing frantically at work, thanks for the help!

Answers from how I did it;

How many jackstands should I use (6?)
ANSWER - I'd use 4 for the car (only raise the rear) and the engine.

How high should I get the car ?

ANSWER - I got the rear about 32" off the ground, but I'd say you only need about 30"

Do I drink the beer first, during or after?

ANSWER - Give yourself goals with Beer reward. SO,
- Getting transmission out - 1 beer reward
- Seeing groves on flywheel - 0 Beer reward
- Reassembling clutch package - 1 beer reward
- or some other silly thing like this!

How important is it to line evertything up perfectly?

ANSWER - It is very important to line the clutch disc up when tightening the pressure plate, otherwise the mating of the transmission will be almost impossible.

If I mess this up what could happen?

ANSWER - Eeeek, a tough question. If you replace the flywheel but don't torque the flywheel bolts and they come loose, that would be really bad.
If you don't properly adjust your clutch, install the speedo drive wrong, or not properly install your muffler, that would not be too bad.

I should be able to give George and them a call if I have too many problems during the installation.

ANSWER - Can't speak for George, but if you want help from the 914world, I'd recommend taking a picture of whatever you have questions about first as it helps immensely to do long distance diagnosis and triage.

I hope this helps.

Just replaced the clutch, all the washers, spacers, needle bearings, rear engine seal, pivot bushing, etc, and everything without opening up the tranny or motor. Parts cost $220 and 1 afternoon to take it out and one to put it back in..I've never pulled one before.

2 Jackstands on the car, one on the motor, and a spare under the motor mount bar and both rear wheels shoved up under the body. Now it's almost safe to get in there. A really tall jack, like a 3 ton will lower the tranny easily. Height is the problem with smaller jacks.

Clay also (my local 914 maharishi) also had me get some hi-temp epoxy and seal up the motor galley plugs behind the flywheel, to prevent them from coming loose later on.

You'll need either a monkey or a helper to push the tranny back in place while on the jack, while you line it up and put in a couple of bolts to the motor.

The Pelican writeup and a local 914 friend are your best helpers.

Good luck. I don't think you can mess this up - it's basically plug and play parts.

Be sure you replace all of the shift bar linkage bushings, if you haven't yet, and get the linkage adjusted just right. You'll think you have a new car after doing this.!

Go For It and save $500 in labor costs.