Guys heres where Im at, my brakes from Eric Sheas company just got delivered to the house, it feels like christmas morning. Did the fronts a couple of weeks ago, there is virtually NO BRAKE FLUID in the lines at this point, so when i connect the lines on the rear and install the brakes there of course will be no pressure. Now what? just start pouring fluid and pump the pedal? am concerned about sponginess which seems to come up alot here. any help will be greatly appreciated?

If you have no fluid in the system. Open one of the brake bleeders from any caliper, although most folks work furthest away (rears) first.

Let gravity do the work, when you see fluid, go to the next one and repeat. When you get them all done, you can double back and start pump and release bleeding method.

I'm sure there's as many procedures like I mentioned as members on this board.

You will be happy with your new brakes, but you may want to consider some better than stock pads like the Porterfield street pads. I rebuilt my brakes and they were good; I put on Porterfield pads and there was a marked improvement.
But, back to your issue. Bleeding wont be a problem like Spoke said; let gravity do the work, use a vacuum brake bleeder or the pedal.

you guys rock. will get the work done this weekend and let you know how it goes. Have a great weekend every one of you.

Be prepared for lots of bleeding. My system was completely new and it seemed like I'd never get all the air out. Taping on the porportionate (I know i spelled that one all wrong) valve will help to get some of the bubbles out of it. Have plenty of fluid on hand.

...If you use a vaccum can......you don't bleed alot
if you don;t...my heart bleed's for you

Just finished up mine from Eric the other day too. Have to seat the pads and ship him back the cores. Very high quality product. When I did mine, I used a stick to keep the pedal down and fluid in the resevoir. Did the fronts; then bled. Then did the rears. No air in the prop. valve, worked like a charm.

Here's how I bleed a 914 brake system, from my post back in Mar 05.

Remember the "Search" function is your friend!

Get a spare cap for the brake fluid resevior.
Get a tire valve & stem.
Drill a hole in the center of the resevior cap, the same size as the hole in a wheel (or measure the narrow part of the tire valve).
Pull the valve stem through the hole.
Remove the plastic screen in the resevior.
Fill the brake resevior completely, not to the fill line, all the way full to the bottom of the tube that holds the plastic screen.
Put on your new modified pressure bleeder cap.
Drain your air tank to 10 psi, for cheaper compressors setting the regulator at 10 psi may not work. If you put too much pressure in the system, you'll blow off the blue lines that connect the supply lines to the resevior, or worse.
Take a clip on air chuck and clip it on your new pressure bleeder cap.
Bleed the brakes, starting at the furthest bleeder from the master cyl, and finish at the bleeder nearest the master cyl.
Bleeding sequence (RR-LR-RF-LF) EDITED FROM ORIGINAL POST
Pump the pedal hard about ten times and repeat the proceedure.
Do not get brake fluid on painted surfaces it will ruin them.
If the pressure bleeder cap retains pressure, bleed it down before taking it off the resevior.
This works very well, and makes it a one person job.
Replace brake fluid every two years.
Properly discard used brake fluid.

Just curious...has anyone here tried or used 'speed bleeders'? Seems it could take the hassle out of the process...Check this out: www.speedbleeder.com.

I used them on a 70T last year. My dad and I spent a couple of hours trying to bleed the system when we finally discovered the little ball bearing in the speed bleeder was frozen. I ordered two more and sent the defective ones back and it was very quick to bleed the brakes.

Buy or borrow a pressure bleeder. Easy and quick. And if no one said this tap he proportion valve as it fills and bleed 3 times.