Just to know the budget, assuming I drop the motor and trans myself, which I have done before, and I do the trans work myself, I think so anyway.........what are we talking here?

I know Mahle 8.0 jugs/pistons/pins are available, but there are 94mm complete sets made here in CA as well, no offshore stuff unless it is German.

Reputable people in SoCal like Fat and others do rebuilds, but assuming I buy the jug set, all the valves/guides and there are no cracks, what should my budget be? Assuming heads are sent out and someone else splits the case, but I provide ALL the parts. Suggestions on parts manufacturers are welcome at all times.

I am not going to do anything but total stock. The car is too nice to alter the engine. I canceled my AX plans because I don't want to beat the car, but I do shift at 5k mostly.

Any ideas?

I may not need to rebuild yet, but buying parts can start now, because it may truly be an exhaust leak I am dealing with, but I need to be a teener true and prepare myself for the eventual total rebuild.

And no, the tranny is working marvelously at 107K miles, but I hear that synchro rings are ALWAYS a good idea with the drivetrain out of the car. I will definitely do all the seals on the tranny as well, and will redo the halfshafts. All bearings are new and fine. Not even loose. All the shifter bushings from the firewall back are new this month, but I need to do the shifter. I have no gear issues at all and have a complete HD Sachs PP/Clutch The clutch assembly has only 10k miles on it but the cable is pretty stretched. New 914-6 cable is ready to go in.

The car may have had a valve job at some point by the 1st owner at 75k miles. No smoke at all, and it hardly uses any oil between 3k changes. All cylinders are 125 or thereabouts, but there is this idle noise, and it ain't the rockers.

We will know soon on the leak or a valve issue.

I am the 3rd owner and PO #2 only changed the the muffler. And he gave me NOS door panels, Motorola replacement speakers and an accelerator cable, all which get mounted next week.

All beliefs accepted here!

Thanks!

John

Parts?
P&C's $500, rods rebuilt $100, Heads rebuilt by Adrian $800, seal kit $100, bearings, $200 for all of them...Labor $500. Lots of other parts to get- Clutch kit $200, injectors cleaned $75, new fuel lines $45 etc....

The big question is are you going to pop for a Raby Valve train kit $500. New cam and matching lifter, swivel feet, pushrods etc. No matter what you need to do the valvetrain geometery to set it up right. A 9550 cam can go in and you will see the hp go to 110hp and the CHT's go down as this is the best stockish cam out there.

Powdercoating the tin $200, SSI HE's $500 all other considerations and really the HE is a must.

The car will love to go to 6000rpms with HD valve springs installed and the Raby cam, much more Porsche like than VW.

Pulling the tranny apart is easy, changing out the sycnro's not too tough either for $50-75 each..

[quote name='Bleyseng' date='Aug 14 2010, 03:48 AM' post='1356281']
Parts?
Heads rebuilt by Adrian $800 quote]

Is adrian from Fat?
is this who you use?

just trying to learn something about head options.
brant

Headflow Masters I assume. http://vw-offroadmotors.com/main/index.html

Thanks, Bleyseng!

Suriname pricing? I don't know your peeps. Where are they in SoCal? Are they in SoCal?

Now those numbers are very reasonable, but I doubt that I would change the cam at all. I might think about it. But, tuning would then be an issue, and I would have to potentially make new marks on the fan to be able to tune it.

Yes, I have to pull the tin and blast and paint black. Not sure if powdercoating is original enough finish. When they split the case, I will take a day or 3 and soak the outside in PineSol to clean it, or does media blasting take the outside down to a stock look? I won't even clearcoat the aluminum. I believe in stockstockstock.

What do they do to the rods besides take them off?

New bearings on a checked out crank I get, but I should be getting new steel rods/bolts, correct? I would even get new lifters (Mahle) and still change out to 911 elephant feet, and modify the valve covers to avoid clinking.

I would buy a stock cam if I had to. I really am avoiding all mods but the 8:1 pistons.

All the injectors/rails/hipress hoses/clamps are new or redone yesterday. Even the pipes were blasted and sprayed yesterday and installed.

Thanks!

John

cool
thanks jason!

Adrian at Headflowmasters is the only place I can recommend for rebuilding heads as Len at HAM doesn't rebuild em anymore.

Rods are resized on the big end and rebushed on the small end....
The stock cam grind is what makes the engine run hotter than it should so switching out the cam to the Raby grind cools off the head temps and gives you a hp bump. The 911 swivel feet fit as you grind off .60 off the rocker so they do. Tuning the engine afterwards is pretty simple these days to set the AFR with the MPS.

My 2056 runs cooler than stock and gets 30mpg on the Freeway..

Stock, stock, stock is fine but we have learned something in 35 years in engineering know how on what to do to keep em running better. Years ago the saying was "you can't tune Djet!" I'll say that now everybody tunes Djet after all the research Brad Anders did.

The case should be cleaned and all the case plugs pulled so the oil galleys are scrubbed with brushes. Then it should be tapped and galley plugs installed when everything is spotless.

Black satin powdercoated tin looks factory stock and lasts 5 times longer than rattle can spray paint.

Woohoo!

Thanks!

John

John, call McMark at Original Customs (on here) to ask him about tuning issues with the Raby cam,as it may not be a big issue.

If you want to keep your 2.0 GA matching nos. intact as stock, then another tack to think about is the Raby/McMark 2056 using a core 2.0 to drive for you, & "cold store" the original motor for later return to stockstockstock.

Otherwise, I don't think that internal mods to the original 2L motor would defeat it's originality in the CW circles - so long as you keep the D-jet on there, since there are a lot of CW 356's out there with built up motors in them, but you can check that with the PCA CdE Chair to be sure. I would think that 8.0:1 Euro GB 2.0L P/C's on a US GA 914-2.0 would pose the same originality problem as a 2056 or non-stock cams etc. (assuming that you can get the tuning data straight).

I think Geoff's/Bleysing's prices & sources above are USA.

BTW Geoff - John's one item up on your list & can deduct $500, as he already has a set of SSI's that he's polished the head seats to a fine hone last week!

My pricing are for the last engine I built lastyearin Seattle not Suriname, guys. A lot of my parts and machine is done by Raby, who is the best. Btw his cams and matching lifters have a special face grind to improve cam and lifters life.

avidfanjpl gave you a good cost overview. if you want to go cheap it will be at least $1-2k. If you want an engine overhaul, at least $4-5k with parts and labor. I just had my engine rebuild and it was around $4-5K.

Thanks, Everyone!

5K is doable in 2010 or 2011. I solved most of my fear issues on the car. The Dansk is rotten. A baffle plate rusted loose. It only moves when hot.

But there were significant exhaust leaks. Bought that Monza from Montreal914 (Eric) in Pasadena, but my work travel pushed off getting it to NEXT Monday.

My plane is late to ATL. Cooling my heels.

Tom, if I do get a second engine, it would become a 2056, but I would have to start building it now, which is not impossible.

The 1971cc should last a bit longer, so yes, maybe there are 2 engines for the same car in my future. I would put a header system on the 2056, but try for a second Djet system. I have the ECU and harness, and that's a start. Finding a 2L engine and tranny would be ideal to build a Raby with a cam that works with DJet, which I hear exists, but know nothing about.

We will see. Airport ramblings, you know. You can do the same later this week!

Tom, the 017 CHTS MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE! WOOHOO! Reset the bleed and ECU. Rock solid 950 rpm idle.

Thanks!

John

John - what "fear issues"!!?? Once a914 maniac, always!
... CHP & Anaheim PD already have your number after those HS cruises!

IIRC - Raby's shop has stopped doing the 2056 & turned that build over to McMark at Original Customs on here. I don't know if he's still selling 2056 kits for doityersefers?

Check with McMark for particulars, & bembry/Brent with the white 73 2L that McMark just rusto's/resto'd & had repainted for him, also got a 2056 upbuild with carbs. Brent & others - weigh in here on the 2056 bennies!

I think the D-jet 2056 gets about 110-115 hp & much more torque than the stock 2L, while the carbed version jumps to 125 hp or so & even more TQ. You could either put carbs on a 2nd motor, or put the D-jet from the current on on there, as I don't see any reason to have 2 D-jet set-ups, since the one can always go back to the original motor - unless it requires mods to run the 2056 which you won't want to muck up on the OE moor set-up, not that you finally have it purring!

Only reason to get a 2nd transaxle, would be to LSD it for the 2056 - then you'll want the carbs & a 2270 from Raby to get 145+ hp & boo-koo TQ!!!!