I really only want to drop the trans to do a complete overhaul. The leaks got to me today, and then I think I sheared something. No noise, just no forward motion, and that is OK, because I have a new clutch plate and need a new clutch cable as the existing one is a skinny one and all stretched out.

I know I have to drop the CV's and rebuild them, so I will start there when I get the tool bit tomorrow. I know also to drop the reverse switch, the ground, and I have a new strap, and the starter, clutch cable and all the bolts holding on the tranny, then the rear mounts, which I may replace, but is that about it?

It pisses me off to no end that I have to probably drop the SSHE's, which I just frigging put on. I am replacing the muffler, and wonder if I can leave the SSHE's in place?

Too risky?

It was a total PITA to get the SSHE's on and perfect. Just last weekend, but like I said, time to pull the transmission. The leaks will go away. Soon, I hope, then I have to get Dr. Evil's video, the tool, and McMark's gasketed speedo wonder.

Hayne's is just too vague, and yes, I know I need the video, then the parts figured out. I looked for a thread, and could not find one from A to Z.

Anyone know of one here? I am about to become a transmission dilettante.

Anything else before I drain the brand new gear oil?

Thanks!

I did it once and it was a PITA. Particularly getting it back in. If you have a transmission jack or a couple of guys with strong arms it would be easy enough but working alone I think it easier to drop the whole drive train.

If you do it don't forget to support the engine.

Disconnect battery.

Unbolt the top two tranny bolts

Raise car up.

Support the engine with a jack.

Remove muffler, hanger, starter, wires, ground strap, clutch, speedo cables and the 4 transmission mount fastners.

Drop the engine so that the tranny drops about 2" in the rear .... it will pivot on the engine bar. Remove remaining two transmission fastners.

Pull tranny out .. like was said ... nice to have help ... it weighs about 80 lbs. You do not need to remove heat exchangers.

Wow, Thanks, Slits!

I may have some help.

I will drain the hypo, remove the CV's clutch cable, ground strap, wires, reverse wires, speedo and the rear 4 mount fasteners.

How do I drop the engine 2 inches? By the engine bar? but not disconnect it completely? I have a 3 ton and a 1 ton jack, and 4 tall body stands. Pin version.

Thanks!

J

I recently did this action but did not need to alter the orientation of the engine to the body at all.

The top 2 bolts for the engine to transmission are difficult to put back in, but it saved me time avoiding unbolting the engine bar, especially as i was using it as a safety point for a safety jack stand.

To me, the key is to make sure the clutch plate is lined up properly or else you will have a hard time getting the transmission input shaft to mate with the clutch.

I hope this helps. The good thing is that everything is relatively in the open you can visualize all the work before you start and can make your own decisions.

Jack under the engine case ... Once the car is up to work underneath, you place the jack to hold the engine position to undo the trans rear hanger fastners. Once these are undone, you can lower the engine assembly SLOWLY to allow the rear of the tranny to clear the rear of the car. It's about 1 - 2". It will pivot on the engine bar to a small degree.

Once you replace the tranny ... jack the engine back up to put the fastners back in the rear of the tranny.

Without a lift this is only a safe job as a two man operation. I do it by myself only when it can't be avoided.

Prelim: I like to unbolt the inside CV's first and wire-tie them up to the coil springs. That way they're out of the way until after the transaxle is removed.

1. Put the car in the air first on all four corners. Make the rear slightly higher so you have room to navigate and twist under there.

2. Unhook the ground strap and shifting stuff, and the muffler if you have one.

3. Loosen the engine-bar mounts a few turns so it can pivot.

4. Put a tall jackstand under the engine, a floor jack under the transaxle, and lower the entire unit onto your engine jackstand by removing the rear mounts. Once it's supported there...

5. Put the jack under the diff chamber, remove the starter and unhook all other wiring.

6. Loosen the other trans bolts and pull the trans backward until it's off of the mainshaft

5. Unhook everything else
Good luck!

I think I am good. I have two jacks, 4 jackstands. She is up high, baby!

All connectors off, muffler off, doing CV's then lowering engine bar a tad. Will remove starter, then AA says don't remove the two big nuts, remove the 13mm nuts that hold the tranny mounts to the body. Seems easier. And the ground strap.

I am interested to see what let go. I think it is the mainshaft. Or I broke a pinion or something.

It was a total disconnect, no grinding. No shrapnel. Nothing.

Getting Swepco for the CV's. Got all the gaskets and new bolts, etc.

Ordered the complete tranny gasket/seals kit. Already drained it, and pulled the shift bar off.

J

Buy a $5.00 VW clutch pilot alignment tool and save yourself a lot of cussing when its time to go back in.

I agree with Ron. no need to drop he's.

Ordering the tool from Pelican. Plus the Swepco goo. Plus anything I forgot.

THANKS ALL!

John